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Old 06-13-2018, 09:08 AM   #43
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That might work Steve, thanks. It looks like there is enough room to removed the cover of the HW50. The card pulls out towards the bottom in your photo.
What is the pliable cord called that you used. I will not use Romex this time
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:19 AM   #44
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Chuck,
There was enough room to get the cover off. The cord you see is what used to go to the transfer switch from the cord reel. Out of the Progressive to the transfer switch I used
SOOW 4 conductor #6 cord from Home Depot. The sell it by the foot.
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:13 AM   #45
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Perfect, thanks Steve.
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:35 AM   #46
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For what it may be worth to any of you, this post will describe a somewhat different approach to installing a Progressive Industries power protection device. I’ll start with some background information.

Back in late 2006, we purchased a 2007 Winnebago Vectra. I was about to order a fixed-mount Progressive Industries EMS device, but couldn’t find a workable place to mount it in the compartment where it needed to be. So I ordered a Progressive Industries portable EMS device – the EMS-PT50C.

That worked fine, but I didn’t like having the device hanging off of the shore power pedestal at RV parks. The potential for theft was one concern, rain/weather was another. So I ended up connecting the EMS-PT50C to the end of the 50 amp power cord with the power cord reeled up, leaving the EMS device inside the power cord basement storage compartment, and using a 50 amp extension cord to connect out to the shore power pedestal.

At that point my EMS-PT50C was secure inside a locked compartment, but I was basically wasting the 30 feet or so of 50 amp power cord on the reel and using another 30 feet or so of 50 amp cord to connect to the shore power pedestal. Not fatal, but you really don’t want any more length of power cord than necessary, especially in really hot weather. But I lived with this approach for the three years we owned the Vectra.

In early 2010, we replaced the Vectra with a 2010 Tiffin Allegro Bus. In that coach, there was room to install a fixed-mount Progressive Industries device, but I already had the portable device so that’s what I went with, using the same approach as with the Vectra.

Then one day I read a post from a fellow Tiffin owner regarding a failure of his shore power cord reel, specifically the rotating contacts inside the reel. Not particularly difficult to fix, but the owner had a difficult time obtaining the parts necessary to do so. The issue being, you can’t just run down to the local Camping World store (or any other RV parts store) and pick up a set of rotating contacts for a 50 amp shore power cord reel. For that matter, you probably wouldn’t be able to find a whole new cord reel on short notice either. After seeing this individual’s post, another owner chimed in saying he’d experienced the same problem and agreed with the first guy that it was highly disruptive to the trip he was on when it occurred.

That got me thinking about what I would do if we experienced a similar problem in the midst of an extended trip. Not being able to get shore power into a big motorhome is a major issue. Yes, you can run the generator, but most RV parks aren’t going to be too keen on letting you do that all day (and night) long.

Finally it hit me that if I cut the 50 amp power cord that ran between the cord reel and the transfer switch, I could wire up a 50 amp male plug on one end and a 50 amp female receptacle on the other end, plug the male into the female and have the equivalent of what I had before cutting the cord in half, but with the advantage of being able to bypass the cord reel and connect a standard 50 amp extension cord if necessary. The first of the embedded photos below shows that setup.

At that point I was about to reinstall the cord reel, which as you can see in the photo, I had removed from the basement storage compartment to facilitate the installation of the male & female connectors. Then it hit me that since I was going to be carrying at least one 50 amp extension cord to use in the event of a cord reel failure (or when extra length was necessary), I could just do without the cord reel altogether.

So I did what you see in the second of the embedded photos – left the cord reel out and plugged the male end of the 50 amp cord into my Progressive Industries portable EMS-PT50C device. From there, the EMS-PT50C could stay inside the compartment and I could run my choice of a 15 foot or 30 foot 50 amp extension cord (or both if necessary) to the shore power pedestal. That was exactly what I did for virtually all of the seven-plus years we owned the Allegro Bus.

When we were getting ready to sell that motorhome, I reinstalled the cord reel and connected the male plug to the female receptacle. I explained the setup to the new owner when he and his wife came to pick up the coach. He’s since decided he likes using the cord reel, so he went with what I was originally planning to do. He left the cord reel in place, purchased a Progressive Industries portable EMS-PT50X (the new version of the EMS-PT50-C), and connected the EMS-PT50X between the male plug and female receptacle.

So in his case, the cord reel and the EMS-PT50X are inside the storage compartment, he has full use of the cord reel, but can bypass it if necessary and get power into the coach with a simple 50 amp extension cord.

To be clear, I’m not pushing or recommending this setup; just putting it out there for what it may be worth. I haven’t decided exactly what I’m going to do on our current Entegra motorhome, but that project is making its way to the top of the project list. I’ll post an update once I figure it out.
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Old 06-13-2018, 02:29 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Victory Blue View Post
You didnít list one, but no PE code after the E0?


Mine never displayed anything after the E code
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:20 PM   #48
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Larry, that is a lot of work. This is suppose to be a fun hobby.
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:16 PM   #49
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Yea, I like the power setup just the way it comes from the factory. Since I donít plan to rip mine off by forgetting to roll it back on the reel (fingers are crossed,) before I start to drive, I really like the ability to push the button and have the motorized reel roll up the cord. My only job other than pushing the button is to try to guide the shore power cord so it rolls up evenly across the reel. Nice. !!

There also appears to be plenty of room to install my HW50C behind the reel mechanism. I was also able to find nice #6 gauge stranded wire, 4 conductor (red, black, white, green) which appears to be very similar to the current power cord, which is nice and cost me roughly $4.50 a foot. I will keep advised but will be several weeks before I start on this.

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Old 06-13-2018, 11:00 PM   #50
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Larry, that is a lot of work. This is suppose to be a fun hobby.
Nah Chuck, it only took two & a half weeks.

And I only worked on it nine or ten hours a day.
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Old 06-14-2018, 05:29 AM   #51
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Nah Chuck, it only took two & a half weeks.

And I only worked on it nine or ten hours a day.
You're more ambitious that I am
Like Gary, Install the HW50, the Flexible cable that Steve recommended at Lowe's is $2.08 a foot https://www.lowes.com/pd/10-to-4-Bla...e-Foot/4284327 and like Ron Popel always said, "set it and forget it."
Another plus to a DIY installation is if the power cord reel ever did go out, it would be an easy connection of the power cord direct the the HW50 to continue on with the trip. At least the installer would know where everything went without having to call someone.
Cruzer posted about carrying 4 large wire nuts for number 6 wire to just splice the wires, bypassing the reel in an emergency, which I now carry. I like easy fixes.
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Old 06-14-2018, 08:17 AM   #52
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Chuck

I cant tell from the link that you provided but the title of that cable says something like "10-4". If what that means is four 10-Gauge stranded copper wire, then that cable is not rated to handle the loads that our coach is designed to carry. A 50 amp line must have four #6 copper wire, not #10.

if we are inserting an HW50C in front of the transfer switch, then our wire needs to be designed to safely handle 50 amps on all four lines at 120 VAC. I could buy #6 single wires of the right color (4 individual wires not bundled into a cable) wire at Lowes and at HD, but neither store handled #6 gauge 4 strand flexible wire in the same covered jacket cable.... they did have solid copper wire in #6 in a cable..... for flexible #6 I had to go to an electrical supply company. There I found some very nice Southwire cable which was as flexible as our installed main power cord on the reel for about $4.50 a foot. I bought 5' which should handle the whole process.

If I am wrong here, somebody set me straight, but #10 is not going to be adequate.

Gary
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Old 06-14-2018, 08:35 AM   #53
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Chuck

I cant tell from the link that you provided but the title of that cable says something like "10-4". If what that means if 4 10 Gauge stranged copper wire, then that cable is not rated to handle the loads that our coach is designed to carry. A 50 amp line must have four #6 copper wire, not #10.

if we are inserting an HW50C in front of the transfer switch, then our wire needs to be designed to safely handle 50A at 120 VAC. I could buy #6 single strand (4 individual wires not bundled into a cable) wire at Lowes and at HD, but neither store handled #6 4 strand flexible wire in the same covered jacket cable.... they did have solid copper wire in #6..... for that I had to go to an electrical supply company. There I found some very nice Southwire cable which was as flexible as our installed main power cord on the reel for about $4.50. I bought 5' which should handle the whole process.

If I am wrong here, somebody set me straight, but #10 is not going to be adequate.

Gary
Gary is correct, #10 is only good for 30 amps. If there was a problem in the coach, or using more then 30 amps per phase (which would not be that hard to do), the wire would overheat and could start a fire without the breaker tripping on the power pole.
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Old 06-14-2018, 08:53 AM   #54
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Transfer Switch - Southwire 40350RVC in '19 Cornerstone

SOOW 6/4 #6 gauge stranded 4 conductors is whatís needed. I did just check Home Depot and it appears it is not stocked like it was 5 years ago but is available as an order in at $5.58 ft. Like Gary said an electrical supply store will have it and it must be 6 gauge for this application.
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Old 06-14-2018, 09:34 AM   #55
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You're more ambitious that I am
Like Gary, Install the HW50, the Flexible cable that Steve recommended at Lowe's is $2.08 a foot https://www.lowes.com/pd/10-to-4-Bla...e-Foot/4284327 and like Ron Popel always said, "set it and forget it."
Another plus to a DIY installation is if the power cord reel ever did go out, it would be an easy connection of the power cord direct the the HW50 to continue on with the trip. At least the installer would know where everything went without having to call someone.
Cruzer posted about carrying 4 large wire nuts for number 6 wire to just splice the wires, bypassing the reel in an emergency, which I now carry. I like easy fixes.
Chuck, I probably didn’t make it clear enough in my post, but that was the original idea behind cutting the cable in half and reconnecting it with a male plug and female receptacle.

Included below are a couple of additional photos which may help to clarify. The first photo shows the end of the cable I cut in half which runs to the transfer switch. As you can see, I wired a male plug on that end.

The second photo shows the end of the cable I cut in half that runs to the cord reel. As you can see, I wired a female receptacle on that end. Connect the male plug to the female receptacle, reinstall the cord reel, and you have exactly what came stock. Except…

In the relatively unlikely event of a cord reel failure, all you have to do is disconnect the male plug from the female receptacle, plug the male end of a 50 amp extension cord into the shore power pedestal and mate the female end of the extension cord up with the male plug on the coach cable.

I’m with you – I like easy fixes, especially in the event of an unplanned failure in the midst of a trip. With all respect, it’s hard for me to imagine an easier way to bypass the cord reel than what I just described. Certainly quicker & easier than splicing four wires with big wire nuts.

I think what may have clouded what I was attempting to explain is that I personally elected to leave the cord reel out once I had it out. But again, the original idea was simply to provide a quick & easy way to bypass the cord reel in the event of a failure.

What any of us choose to do with regard to a power protection device (portable or hard-wired; Progressive Industries or other brand) is unrelated to this method of being able to bypass the cord reel in the event of a failure.
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Old 06-14-2018, 10:53 AM   #56
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Larry.... I for one, understood what you were doing perfectly.... I think. I just dont see that as less hassle and more safe than trying to make sure that my shore power line is wound up nicely on the reel, and I would try to avoid the bulk and inconvenience of taking along an unnecessary 50A extension cord with me for no good reason. Maybe I take more junk with me otherwise but I dont need that bulk for something that I anticipate I will never need.

Of course, you are free to do whatever makes sense to you, and I appreciated your explanation of another way to do things.

Gary
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