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Old 07-10-2019, 09:01 AM   #1
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Understanding water pressure

We have observed that the water pressure is poor when hooked up to city water. Checking the pressure at the source and itís very good. Supplementing by turning on the pump helps a lot, but how? I assume the fresh tank has have water in it?

Experimenting, I shut off the city water and ran on pump only and the wp is the same, as when supplementing while hooked to city supply. I changed filters with no change in pressure.

What would cause this?

Thanks in advance
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:11 AM   #2
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What size is the filtration in your filters?
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:32 AM   #3
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Is it possible you have a pressure regulator built into your city water inlet.
Is the pressure the same on all your taps, shower, bathroom sink?
I had changed my kitchen tap to a residential one and had to remove the low flow regulator in it to get any amount of water out of it as we have low pressure city water and the RV pump doesnít have the push to get past the flow restriction valve very well.

Good luck with your troubleshooting

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Old 07-10-2019, 09:33 AM   #4
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What is the city water pressure?
Is the shower in the basement turned completely off?
Is the low pressure on one or all faucets?
Has a screen been removed from one of the faucets, does the pressure change?
What water pump in your coach? The 4048 should be at 55 psi. Is the city fill turned off while trying to use the pump only? Any change in pressure?
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:52 AM   #5
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City water connects to Cold Water Plumbing Line thru a screened washer/check valve assembly and then could have an in-line regulator and then a whole house filter.


Pump discharges into SAME Cold Water Plumbing Line connecting with city water source without going thru the regulator and/or whole house filter


IF pump is ON and STARTS then 'City Water' inlet pressure has to be lower then pump pressure switch start set point.
When pump runs and is supplying water to RV Plumbing Lines then the 'City Water' check valve in the inlet assembly CLOSES to prevent backflow from RV into city water source.


IF 'City Water' pressure is higher then pump pressure switch start set point then pump does NOT run and 'City Water' supplies RV Plumbing Lines even if city water pressure is less then what pump can supply.


A pump with a Shutoff Pressure set point of 55 psi will typically have a Start Pressure set point of 40 psi (15# differential)
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:59 AM   #6
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When I had a similar issue, I was advised to inspect the intake valve located where the hose reel hose exits the wet bay panel and screws into the intake port. Unscrew the hose and inspect for debris. I rinsed the intake valve and attempted to exercise it, what ever I did worked.

Given your pump improves the pressure, there may be a restriction as well this could help you too!

I would also fully extend the hose from the reel to confirm no kinks,
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Old 07-10-2019, 10:44 AM   #7
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You might want to check what type of filter you have in the whole house filter. A single filter configuration is typically intended for sediment and therefor should be no finer than 5 microns. If you have a 1 micron or carbon filter then you can expect it to clog quicker and restrict water flow. A three filter arrangement typically is configured in series 5 micron, 1 micron, and carbon filter to optimize flow and filtration. Maybe not the issue, but worth checking.
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Old 07-10-2019, 11:44 AM   #8
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Pressure is better with pump
on with water in the fresh tank and city water turned off. Took the filter out just to see what difference it made. It did not improve city pressure at all.

Kitchen sink seems worse that others on city water
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Old 07-10-2019, 11:59 AM   #9
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Hot water pressure is worse than cold. ItMs affected more than cold
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Old 07-10-2019, 12:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buddy110 View Post
Pressure is better with pump
on with water in the fresh tank and city water turned off. Took the filter out just to see what difference it made. It did not improve city pressure at all.

Kitchen sink seems worse that others on city water

This will help with Kitchen sink faucet, it fixed mine completely

Fixed low water pressure at kitchen sink faucet


If you do not have a city water pressure gauge, pick one up. It will save a lot of guess work as to what is wrong with the water pressure. I use the flow restrictor with meter, https://www.amazon.com/Renator-M11-0...s%2C177&sr=8-3
also carry one from Lowe's sold in the sprinkler dept, it already has the hose fitting on it.
If the city water pressure is below 55psi, fill the water tank and run off of it. Over 50 psi I run on city water.
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Old 07-10-2019, 12:35 PM   #11
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This makes good sense. Pressure that seems ok may still be below 55psi

Thanks
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Old 07-10-2019, 12:40 PM   #12
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Low water pressure is certainly frustrating. There are some good suggestions here.

How did you check the pressure at the source to determine itís good? Do you have a pressure regulator with a gauge? If so, what pressure is it reading?

Has city water pressure from CG to CG always been low on your coach? Or is this something new? If youíve always had low pressure look for a hose kink along the hose you can see. Unfortunately, thereís a lot of hose that you canít see.

Lower pressure at a particular faucet (you mentioned the kitchen) is likely to be a flow restrictor in the faucet that just adds to the problem. When we have low city water pressure itís the worst at the kitchen faucet and rear toilet.

Many/most campgrounds have less than great water pressure which I define as less than 60psi. It doesnít seem to matter what kind of CG it is. Weíre at Hearthside Grove right now and have only 40psi on the gauge. I removed the regulator to see if that was the problem; made no difference in the coach.

Weíve learned to regularly fill the tank and use the pump, always for showers, always when we use the rear toilet and sometimes for clothes and dishwashing.
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Old 07-10-2019, 02:40 PM   #13
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All good suggestions here for finding low water pressure issues.

A little while ago I spent some time chasing a low water issue. I've got a number of water filters as well as an inline water pressure regulator. After a little debugging I found that my RV water pressure regulator was the issue. Time for the tiny thing to go.

Instead of buying a rebuild kit, for the RV pressure regulator, I opted to install a house water pressure regulator. The cost difference between the rebuild kit and house pressure regulator wasn't that much, so the house pressure regulator won. Since I was already cutting into the plumbing, I decide to add some tools for debug if the problem should arise again. I added a water pressure gauge before the house pressure regulator, but after the in coming water hose. I then added another water pressure gauge after the house pressure regulator prior to the water entering the coach. Since I carry a portable pressure gauge, to use at the campground spigot, I can test the water pressure prior to the coach hose and verify if there's a problem with the campground. I also have a water pressure gauge after the filters but prior to the water softener. I tend to use this to determine if the filters are clogged and need to be changed.

Since the installation of the house water regulator I've had nothing but good pressure. Obviously, this all depends on the campground water, but all in all it was a worth while installation.

First picture is the gauge at the campground spigot, next is the house regulator followed by the inlet and outlet gauges for the house regulator. The inlet gauge to the house regulator is in the background. Then there's the pressure gauge after the filters....
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Old 07-10-2019, 02:57 PM   #14
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From what I can tell, city water does not flow through the large filter? Only flows through it when filling the tank?
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