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Old 08-26-2016, 08:47 PM   #29
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One of the reasons A/CS have problems is they can't circulate enough air volume because of dirty filters. They should be cleaned monthly. That's why I did the magnetic fasteners mod, so cleaning the vents would not be a PITA.

Entegra incorporated the mod in their 2017 model.

You might look at your air filters.


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And, I assume there are 3 A/C filters? And where are they located? Thanks.
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Old 08-27-2016, 05:41 AM   #30
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AC filters should be in the ceiling - air return vents. Take a screw driver and carefully remove the 2 screws and inspect them. They can be rinsed, or you can buy a pack of them at Home Depot or Loews, and I have to trim them slightly with scissors. Been several mod threads here about using magnets to hold the covers on for easy replacement.

Seems like mine has 12 filters?
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Old 08-27-2016, 06:40 AM   #31
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The 17's have 4 filters per unit for return air they are arranged from side to side so you will see 2 side by side for output and 4 side by side for return air. Amp draw on a A/C unit is dependent on charge and load. On every A/C unit is a data tag on that tag is compressor amp draw that is figured on a 90deg day in their test center. This is how we test the units we record running amp draw on the compressor and temp and humidity. There are charts that tell us what the amp draw should be for those conditions cooler temps lower amp draw hotter temps higher amp draw. When I was in Houston in the summer it was not unusual to see compressor draws as high as 19 amps on some days then add in the 3 amp fan draw and a 20 a breaker is running maxed out all day. Yes dirty filters will also raise amp draw as will dirty condenser coils.
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Old 08-27-2016, 06:50 AM   #32
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In the Louisians and Texas areas in the Summer, my AC units (15,000) pull exactly 18 amps when it is blistering hot out there. When 2 are running, the Progressive shows 36 amps on one leg of the shore power, and with all 3 burning, 36A on one leg and 18 to 20 on the other leg. that is with all other loads turned off (AquaHot, refer, etc).

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Old 08-27-2016, 08:39 AM   #33
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If the zone 1 A/C is set to off on the thermostat and the breaker still won't reset, then it's definitely a bad breaker. If the A/C is looking for cooling via the thermostat and that's the only time it trips, then it could be either. In that case I would try a new breaker, or at least swap with another A/C breaker and see if the problem migrates to the other A/C. In that case it's a breaker. If not, it's in the A/C itself.
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Old 08-27-2016, 10:31 AM   #34
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If the breakers have popped several time, I would go ahead and replace them. They do wear out and they are not expensive or hard to replace. Speaking of replacing you might want to check to see if a breaker has worked a little loss from the vibration of driving.
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Old 08-28-2016, 03:13 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Whizzer60 View Post
My coach is not parked outside, It is inside a garage plugged into 50 amp shore power and breakers are still thrown.

Entegra told me that I can run "anything on that RV at once" when connected to 50 amps.

Also, I go up there today at 3:00 PM and Zone 3 is 95* with warm air coming out of vents and Zone 1 is 75*. Go back at 8:00 PM and Zone 3 is 75 with cold air coming out of vents.

this should not be!

Just had A/C's serviced locally. Said there was a lot of construction debris in the duct work from when it was built and vents were clogged.

Don't know what's up with the A/C but it is very frustrating.
How hot is it in the garage ?

Is it a low or peaked ceiling ?

The hot air comming out of the AC units may be recirculating, causing them to overheat.

Try it outside.
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:30 AM   #36
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How hot is it in the garage ?

Is it a low or peaked ceiling ?

The hot air comming out of the AC units may be recirculating, causing them to overheat.

Try it outside.
Garage was built specifically for the RV. 16' ceiling. It's HOT inside. No windows.
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:33 AM   #37
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If the breakers have popped several time, I would go ahead and replace them. They do wear out and they are not expensive or hard to replace. Speaking of replacing you might want to check to see if a breaker has worked a little loss from the vibration of driving.
My electrician wants to know what brand of breakers they are using so he can come prepared. Only thing I could find was the outside of the box says Progressive Dynamics. Can't find a brand name on front of breaker.Have no clue what brand of breaker. Any ideas?
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:42 AM   #38
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You need the Q series of breakers. They are made by a number of breaker manufacturers, such as Square D, Cutler-Hammer, Siemens, etc. They are easy to find. If it's a single 20 amp breaker you want a Q120, which is a single slot 20 amp. Q115 is a 15 amp, etc. If it's a split breaker where one slot is shared with two breakers then the number would be Q2020, or even a Q2015 if the other side is a 15 amp, etc.
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:14 AM   #39
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You need the Q series of breakers. They are made by a number of breaker manufacturers, such as Square D, Cutler-Hammer, Siemens, etc. They are easy to find. If it's a single 20 amp breaker you want a Q120, which is a single slot 20 amp. Q115 is a 15 amp, etc. If it's a split breaker where one slot is shared with two breakers then the number would be Q2020, or even a Q2015 if the other side is a 15 amp, etc.
Thanks a lot!!
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