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Old 10-24-2019, 10:28 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 98winnie View Post
use air to blow the water out of the lines, empty your holding tanks and pour antifreeze in all your traps. I guess it might depend on how far north you are, but works fine for me in Oklahoma.
Me, too, 98winnie.
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Old 10-24-2019, 10:29 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by jestal View Post
Uhhh….did you read my post? The part about taping the winterizing tube to the bottom of the bucket? Yes, I know and use the winterizing tube.

And,yes, I put about 3 gallons into the fresh water tank by back filling it. Due to the location of the bung on the fresh water tank it is impossible to completely drain it and get all the water out of the lines and fittings going to it so I compensate by putting some antifreeze into it.

.
It's hard to question you for being "better safe than sorry." Whatever works.

The only thing I'm not sure about is the fresh water tank. The manufacturer doesn't seem to think we need to put in pink stuff AFAIK.
I don't think I've ever heard of a fresh water tank that's been emptied (as much as possible) ever cracking. I could be wrong I suppose.
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Old 10-24-2019, 10:30 AM   #17
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look for the pink

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Originally Posted by 46490 View Post
What do you do to ensure the Aquahot is fully protected. I was told when the antifreeze comes out of the hot water faucet the Aquahot is good to go, is this true?
Look at the water lines going into and out of the Aquahot. Keep the bypass valve closed as normal. Filling the system and opening the hot faucets should easily pull enough through the aquahot. But, take a flashlight and backlight the water lines to make sure there is pink in the inlet and outlet to the aquahot.

I usually start with the aquahot by first turning on the wand in the wet bay on hot. You can stand there and watch the aquahot fill and get an idea how much fluid it takes by how long the cycle between pink in and pink out is. The aquahot holds a gallon or more easily in the domestic water heating loop.


Every on who has done the wet bay mod with a quick connect hose and modified knob set should understand that that modification changes the winterizing as the quick connect aftermarket version does not winterize as easily as there is no vacuum break on the hose so the faucet and hose needs antifreeze pumped thru it.
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Old 10-24-2019, 10:35 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by okcnewbie View Post
It's hard to question you for being "better safe than sorry." Whatever works.

The only thing I'm not sure about is the fresh water tank. The manufacturer doesn't seem to think we need to put in pink stuff AFAIK.
I don't think I've ever heard of a fresh water tank that's been emptied (as much as possible) ever cracking. I could be wrong I suppose.
I'm not worried about the tank itself. Its the fittings and the bung that trap water and could cause a problem. water traped in fittings and valves are very quesitonablee for damage.

An earlier post discussed how "weak" of an antifreeze the RV stuff is. I have a coke bottle full of -50 RV antifreeze in the freezer right now at -3 F and it is frozen solid as a rock and even bulges slightly so the RV antifreeze is very questionable especially if it is diluted with water like in the tank. So, yes, I am playing it safe.
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Old 10-24-2019, 10:42 AM   #19
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Move south .....
Working on it! The Detroit roots that resulted in me being able to retire and have an RV are deep and hard to dig completely up. I grew up in SC so I had to learn what winter really is.

Last winter there were some extended periods of -20 F in Detroit so anyone around here takes winterizing seriously.

Michigan is a huge boating state and I always hear horror stories in the spring of cracked engine blocks, heads, exhaust manifolds, etc. due to quickie winterizing. I've helped more than a few friends rebuild those very engines so I am very gun shy of winterizing.
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