Front End Wheel Alignment

[Kevin-B]

My Sprinter is pulling to the right as I drive so it's in need of a front/rear end wheel alignment. Has anyone had this done to thier, what was the cost, do I have to go to Mercedes for this?

[Showkey]

Sprinter alignment is not difficult. It is a standard strut suspension similar to most minivans. Camber and toe is the only real adjustments. The problems is finding a shop that can handle the size and weight of the Sprinter especially the 3500 chassis. Larger truck place can do it but many normal tire shops and stores can not handle the larger Sprinter. The 2500 short wheel base is generally not a problem.

With any alignment there is a difference in a maintenance vs an alignment to solve a wear or pull problem. To solve a problem the tech needs skills and experience. Often just setting to the specs may not be good enough.

I gave up on the shop with my 3500 chassis and did the alignment in my drive way, with portable alignment equipment.

[Kevin-B]

I found a place that has done this work on Sprinter motorhomes, so I'll see how it goes.

[TeJay]

Kevin-B,
What led you to believe you needed an alignment??? Unless you know for sure be careful making assumptions. Yes they will be glad to work on your MH. However misaligned wheels will not always cause a vehicle to pull. Other factors will. I'm sure you've checked these. Low tire pressure, a stuck brake caliper, tight wheel bearings. Has any other work been done on the vehicle??

I don't know the history of the vehicle. Did you buy it new?? When did the pulling start??? Is there any tire wear present??

Also keep in mind this about wheel alignments. Tire wear is an outward sign of needing an alignment. The tire wear is the symptom but not the cause. There are only three reason to need an alignment.

1. Worn steering or suspension parts.
2. Bent steering or suspension parts. Just hitting a curb can do it.
3. The alignment angles were set correctly by the factory or the last shop.

If the angles are off and nothing is worn or bent then the last shop didn't do it correctly. If you bent something or finally a combination of 2 or 3 or 4 worn parts is changing the angles and your tires are worn. Sometimes 1 or more parts are worn but not enough to require the tech to change all of them. Sometimes they may change the most worn part to keep the costs down. I think you see what I'm getting at. You've got king pins, or 4 ball joints and 2-4 tie-rod ends that will wear/bend.

Our MH was aligned at the factory. I had it checked with only 700 miles on it and all angles were off caster, camber and toe.

Here's some things to check. After a drive are the brake rotors close to the same temperature? Check the temps with a gauge or even the back of your hand. Check your tire pressures as well. Raise the front wheels one at a time and spin the tire and check to determine if there's any run out, tire wobble, or belts shifted.

I'd also take the front tires off and switch them. I had a slight pull on our MH switched the tires and it went away. GY said if switching the tires did not cure the problem they'd replace the tire. It worked just fine. Last week after about 9,000 miles I rotated them back and the pull is gone. That's called a, "Radial Pull". Just last week I did the same thing with our TOAD and also had a pull that was not there before I switched the tires. I put them on the rear and the pull went away.

If you have any questions about how to check any of this stuff send me a PM and I'll help. I hope this helps. I don't like to see people paying for things that may not need to be done.

Also many thanks for your service. My Brother retired AF, Son Lt.Col 19 years AF, me 4-yrs. AF.

TeJay

[Kevin-B]

Thanks so much for your reply, I think I'll rotate the front tires first to see what happens.

I bought it used with 6,500 miles on her, we now are just over 20,000 miles. I replaced all the tires back in January because they were 8 years old. I don't think if ever hit a curb or pot hole with it. I have noticed some steer wheel vibration at 60/65+ mph, but I asumed it was because they are not high end tires.

Your welcome and thank you & your family for their service.

[TeJay]

Kevin-B,
I'll assume that the tires were balanced in January. If the tires were not the best quality they should sill be round. If not round and that's making it vibrate put that tire in the rear. That won't fix the tire but since it's probably past any warranty issue you'll minimize the feel of the vibration. Tires can be trued by removing some of the out of roundness. It takes a few miles off the tires but may be something to consider.
I just put on Centramatic tire balancers and really like them. Look them up on the net. I got ones for the fronts liked them then got them for the rears a few weeks later. The best part about them is they balance every time you drive the entire spinning assembly, tire, rim, hub etc. I think we gave $350 for both sets but they will last a million miles as long as you buy your next coach with the same tire size.

Best of luck with the RV and please let us know how it works out. Are you at Nellis for the next few years?? Been there visiting and some friendswere stationed there. I played the base golf course with my brother and never got tired of watching the TB's practice. A friend of mine was there back in the late 60's or early 70's. He and a friend sneaked into a hanger and found what all the secrecy and security was all about. He got to see the BB long before it came out to the public. He's lucky he didn't get caught.

TeJay

[Showkey]

Sprinter are well known for having improper alignment from the factory. Especially Class C, mine has a sticker on the door pillar basically saying camber changes with load. Alignment should be checked in fully loaded vehicle. Camber changes with load.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...ight=Tire+wear

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...ight=Tire+wear

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1309


Camber issue is also well known for causing edge wear in the front tires. The Sprinter has many posting discussing camber setting to solve this tie early tire wear. Camber split is also a god reason for pulling. As mentioned tires and many other factors can cause pull or drift. Including side winds which nothing can fix the wind cause drift.

Steering wheel vibration is also common due to poor balance. Like alignment not all tire stores or dealers are equipped to handle the Sprinter wheels. Each time I have had balance issues it took multiple visits to the the shop for them to get it right.

If the RV sits for weeks.........often the tires flat spot and it takes about 20 miles at speed to run the flat spots out. The key running flat spots our is getting the tires to operations get temperature.

[Deny]

My 2014 V was driving true-but eating tires. I had the alignment done at about 17K, by an independent alignment shop with a long standing reputation for good alignment results. It seems that I paid a little over $100 in Ft Pierce, Fla

My View has 34K now & tires are wearing perfectly.

[CG Higg]

We have a 2015 Free Spirit. When you say vehicle should be "fully loaded" before alignment, does that include WITH fuel AND the black, gray, and fresh water tanks FULL, plus everything that you would be carrying in the RV before travel?

[Skip426]

Originally Posted by CG Higg

We have a 2015 Free Spirit. When you say vehicle should be "fully loaded" before alignment, does that include WITH fuel AND the black, gray, and fresh water tanks FULL, plus everything that you would be carrying in the RV before travel?

Loaded with your gear and clothes , fuel and water in fresh tank, black and grey DRAINED , as that is the most common way to travel.
Even if you've been boon docking , there is movement between the fresh and grey/black tanks , but unless you add fresh without draining the grey/black tanks, you don't add weight.

[TeJay]

I'm not familiar with the Sprinter chassis. It may have a front independent suspension. If it does then yes weight will change your alignment settings. Lets not confuse independent suspension with straight axles. Many, many time one statement will be applied to all and the differences are never discussed.

Most still believe the weight thing when dealing with an F-53 chassis. It even says to load your coach before it is aligned.

There are good reason for putting your travel weight in a vehicle before performing a wheel alignment but the straight front and rear axle on most RV's (the F-53 being the biggest %'age) is not one of them.

Adding more weight to an F-53 chassis be it front or rear will not change camber or toe angles. Yes if the rear is lower than the front the caster will change some but not much. And it will only change some if the amount it is lowered is different from the amount the rear is lowered. Only alignment angles on independent suspensions are effected by weight.

Why do they tell you to add the weight before aligning??? To CVtB's. Think of it this way. If you add 2,000 lbs to the front or rear will the straight front axle or the rear differential bend??? I think not. They have to bend before any angles will change. If you add 2,000 to the rear and none to the front then your caster angle will change. I don't think you would do that on purpose. Most added weight to an RV is distributed some what evenly therefore what effect it may have on caster is minimal.

TeJay

[jackfish]

Most Sprinters are only adjustable for toe from the factory. An MB OEM or aftermarket camber bolt kit is required for camber adjustment.

[Showkey]

^^^^^^^^^^^^

Some what true.........you get more camber adjustment with "camber bolts".........but the range the stock bolts provide is often more than adequate.

[jackfish]

Then why does Mercedes Benz/Dodge/Freightliner say camber and caster are not adjustable in most Sprinter models service manuals?