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Old 05-26-2015, 07:05 PM   #1
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Anderson Water Selector Valve info.

Would like to share the attached information I received from the manufacturer Anderson on the installed water valve in our coaches.

Hopefully you won't need it like me. But save to your files for future reference.

Don
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 200RV-PTInstructions.pdf (465.2 KB, 2754 views)
File Type: pdf 200RV-RKREPAIRINST.pdf (507.2 KB, 1362 views)
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:23 PM   #2
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We are have the values replaced as we speak. CW order the parts from Thor. They are replacing the whole panel that holds the values! It has taking 3 weeks to get fixed. Both fresh water and hot water values r leaking.


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Old 05-26-2015, 10:09 PM   #3
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After purchasing my coach I discovered that the selector valve did not do what it said on the placard. After tracing the plumbing and convincing Thor the valve must be defective they agreed to send me a replacement. The new one was a complete panel which I installed at home. Not really an easy job but doable - took about all day for someone thats never done it before.
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Old 05-27-2015, 06:22 AM   #4
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Thanks Don for the documentation.
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Old 05-27-2015, 07:14 AM   #5
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It's a 15 min job to rebuild stem with valve in place.

After I also replaced the valve that Thor sent me.......Real PIA!!!!!.
Took faceplate off first after removing the two brass valve nuts holding panel. Scraped knuckles job for sure!

But after receiving the instructions from manufacturer I was successful is removing stem. Two of my o-rings were gone. The rebuild kit I guess is a bunch of replacement 0-rings hopefully. Buying a complete stem is rediculious. I will confirm this with a reply email this morning to the person that sent me the information.

I plan on periodically removing and re-silcone lube the stem for proper operation and inspection.

Good Luck
Don
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:28 AM   #6
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Kantleak valve

Hi all,
My anderson valve also went bad on my 2014 33.2, and was leaking internally. I looked at many web sites and could not find it. Finally I purchased the valve from fitzilla.com (a valve dealer in Texas) , the rebulid kit costs almost as much as the whole valve so I purchased a new valve.
It is part number 200RV-4 and costs $$ 40.
I suggest that before removing the old valve one marks the hoses so you will know which hose goes on which port.
Happy Camping, Bernie
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Old 05-27-2015, 09:53 AM   #7
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what hose clamps did Thor use in the back? crimp on type or adjustable type? TIA...
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:32 AM   #8
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Don
Many thanks for the files and your experience. I save all the files I can on my computer. I am pleased to see that the valve replacement can go like the Moen valve for homes. I have done many of them and I am always happy that it is so easy. The part is not cheap but the labor is very minimal.
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redridge View Post
what hose clamps did Thor use in the back? crimp on type or adjustable type? TIA...
Mine were crimp on clamps. The clamps and tool are available at Lowes.
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:09 PM   #10
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Cool Kantleak valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by jones47172 View Post
Mine were crimp on clamps. The clamps and tool are available at Lowes.
You shouldn't have to crimp any hoses to change the valve. The lines have threaded plastic fittings.
Bernie
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Old 05-27-2015, 06:46 PM   #11
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Removal of the valve body is not required!

First with a philips screwdriver remove handle. Look for the tiny little allen key'd screw holding in that brass collar. Remove that small screw and rotate brass collar and remove along with spring underneath. Re-Attach handle and then pull on handle as you turn the valve left or right......guts aka stem will pull right out! [Wish I knew this before changing and cutting up my hands with the replacement unit!!!!].

Just reverse the above instructions to assemble.Real simple. Just don't loose that tiny little set screw and make sure spring and brass collar is seated on flanges [It won't pop out if seated'] then put that tiny screw back in to prevent that brass collar from moving.

I did hear back and was advised to periodically remove this stem to inspect and re-lube with domestic water rated lubricant. I'll just use that silicone gel I use other places[home faucets and pool equipment O-rings], but no petroleum jelly.

Don
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:34 AM   #12
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so, "O" rings should be the only thing to replace if worn, Does it look like its easily removed and replaced? maybe an annual maintenance item to check for is all that is needed.
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:15 AM   #13
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Where to get stem repair kit Part # 200RV-RK

Was told the O-rings were sold separately, so far they are not, but sold as a completed stem assy. I called the supplier below that was given to me from Anderson. Their replacement is also the complete stem assy at a cost of $15.00 each. The info is below:

Atlantic Marine
Merritt Island, FL
Attn: Brian
321.501.4262


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Old 08-27-2015, 11:15 AM   #14
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First, thank you Don for posting the technical literature. My valve failed in our 2014 33.2 model, allowing air to be introduced into the pump intake line, causing the pump to no longer be able to pump water.
I contacted Anderson today and have an update on what is going on with this issue. Ron at Anderson was very helpful and is sending us a part kit with a newer model core that is designed to retain the seals better than the original design. It also has 4 seals instead of 3 seals. Ron explained that the product test methods of "certain manufacturers" revealed a vulnerability of the older design that they have now overcome with the new design.
Also, there is no need to reduce the pressure prior to turning the valve as has been reported. Also, there is no need to do any annual maintenance to re-grease the new style core. The kit contains a hex key and instructions also. The kit was free. It should arrive in a week. Very pleased with the Anderson service and support of their product. Seems like an easy installation and hoping that it is a permanent solution/upgrade. Thank you Anderson for coming through professionally!
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