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Old 07-10-2014, 07:17 PM   #15
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Same thing happens to my inverter. Sometimes runs until mid evening until the ambient air temperature drops enough.

Trouble with a manual switch is you will forget to turn the fan on and then there is one less layer of protection for the unit.
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Voyage View Post
OK on meeting!!!! Look forward to it! Milk and 2 sugars! LOL Don
Indy is correct on his statements, but is don't think he is following your design change Don. I noticed the same issue with my inverter panel box and basically plan the same fix. The power exhaust at current design short circuits the air. Even blocking one and cutting in another at the opposite end of the panel would remove the built up heat from the inverter. If you live in very hot climates, the do make a AC unit for small panels like this.

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Old 07-10-2014, 09:22 PM   #17
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Indy is correct on his statements, but is don't think he is following your design change Don. I noticed the same issue with my inverter panel box and basically plan the same fix. The power exhaust at current design short circuits the air. Even blocking one and cutting in another at the opposite end of the panel would remove the built up heat from the inverter. If you live in very hot climates, the do make a AC unit for small panels like this. 2013 Palazzo 33.3
Sorry, I forgot to mention, I was going to add a muffin style fan on one of the vents to create air changes.
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Old 07-11-2014, 05:23 AM   #18
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It seems to be working better!

On my way to Elkhart, touring as I go! To me I notice the fan is running less. Without getting too techinical, I was using the way my home A/C ducting works. I have a return located away from the out flow registers. Also I kinda, postioned the thermostat that was just hanging free in the air and atached to a harness with a wire strap to just above the duct I installed. This I hoped would be in the path of the hot air being sucked out of compartment. Like the idea the idea of a second fan of same size blowing inward. But I would install this on the end of my duct and wire it into harness that feeds current fan so as they will run at same time together.
But right now I do see a reduction in time of the current fan running.
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Old 07-11-2014, 05:56 AM   #19
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I put a small 12vdc fan and 95 degree snap cap thermostat mounted TO the converter in my compartment. Runs about 30% in summer. It seems to bridge the gap between the times the converter's own fan runs at load.
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Old 07-13-2014, 07:39 AM   #20
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Inverter Compartment Fan Switch

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Originally Posted by Indy1951 View Post
As an experiment I moved the fan switch from the dead air space it was originally installed in to closer to the fan in an attempt to see if getting the fan switch in the air stream will make it behave better. If I see an improvement I will make a bracket to mount it more directly into the air stream.
Attachment 67429
I recently changed out the SELCO CA100 fan switch to one with a narrower range of operation. The CA100 turns on at 100 degrees and off at 70 degrees. The 70 is the problem as that is an unrealistic goal for the fan system in most locales. I replaced the CA100 with a SELCO CA115. It turns on at 115 and shuts off at 100. Works great for me.
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Old 07-13-2014, 10:27 AM   #21
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I recently changed out the SELCO CA100 fan switch to one with a narrower range of operation. The CA100 turns on at 100 degrees and off at 70 degrees. The 70 is the problem as that is an unrealistic goal for the fan system in most locales. I replaced the CA100 with a SELCO CA115. It turns on at 115 and shuts off at 100. Works great for me.

More details please! Where did you get the switch?



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Old 07-13-2014, 11:04 AM   #22
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I recently changed out the SELCO CA100 fan switch to one with a narrower range of operation. The CA100 turns on at 100 degrees and off at 70 degrees. The 70 is the problem as that is an unrealistic goal for the fan system in most locales. I replaced the CA100 with a SELCO CA115. It turns on at 115 and shuts off at 100. Works great for me.

Ok, I went out and found what I believe to be the CA 100 switch. It looks as if my tech in Elkhart moved mine as well (mentioned by someone else) because it is hanging down low and is attached to other wiring with a tie wire.

I also searched for the switch on the internet and found a few sites with them including the CA 115 with the specifications mentioned. So far so good. Then my problems start. Why not a CA 110 that seems to kick in at 110 and off at 80? I presume you did not think that much better than 70. The site I was looking at had three different models of CA 115. Which one do I need? Then assuming I buy the correct one, it seems to have two wires running to it. Is there a positive and a negative. Does it matter which one plugs in or am I looking at a 50/50 chance of getting it right? If I get it wrong am I going to screw something up? Then I start to ask myself, "are you qualified" and come to the realization I am not without further guidance.

I guess my other problem is that even though the fan is running it's little heart out 24/7 it just does not seem to be moving that much air.


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Old 07-13-2014, 07:30 PM   #23
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I have now found a CA104 that goes between 86 degrees and 104. I also found a CA107 that goes between 90 degrees and 107. I am thinking either one of those will also work. The different models seem to have to do with the posts. Some have solder on posts and others have quick connects. Right now I am thinking of ordering a CA107. It gets to 90 degrees a lot in Florida, but at least it would (should) shut off at night.



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Old 07-13-2014, 08:33 PM   #24
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I have now found a CA104 that goes between 86 degrees and 104. I also found a CA107 that goes between 90 degrees and 107. I am thinking either one of those will also work. The different models seem to have to do with the posts. Some have solder on posts and others have quick connects. Right now I am thinking of ordering a CA107. It gets to 90 degrees a lot in Florida, but at least it would (should) shut off at night.



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I agree with the ca107. Let me know how it works.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:43 AM   #25
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More details please! Where did you get the switch?



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I bought the Selco CA115 on Ebay. Vendor was henryradio. I got it for $7.50 plus the shiping. It arrived quickly. This unit has the familiar 1/4" slide on terminals and it has a mounting ring for applications where the unit needs to be in contact with the heat source. Either wire from the harness can go on either switch terminal.

The stated safe operating range for the Magnum Inverter is 4 to 140 degrees F. The turn on point of 115 seems reasonable to me. It is great having that pesky finally cycle on an off with the anticipated results.
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Old 07-14-2014, 10:34 AM   #26
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I ended up buying the CA115 from Henry Radio. He did not have a Ca107 and Selco wanted a $50 minimum. Henry says there is no polarity on the switch so I now have a 100% chance of getting the wires on correctly.

I am looking forward to quiet nights.



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Old 07-14-2014, 12:28 PM   #27
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I ended up buying the CA115 from Henry Radio. He did not have a Ca107 and Selco wanted a $50 minimum. Henry says there is no polarity on the switch so I now have a 100% chance of getting the wires on correctly.

I am looking forward to quiet nights.



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will order today.. it was 105 heat index this weekend where we were in TX and that thing doesn't have a chance to turn off.

Looks like we may have some cooler nights where we are headed in Pensacola, FL this weekend so maybe it will cut off after the first night. I'll have the CA115 waiting on my doorstep when we get home.
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Old 07-14-2014, 02:34 PM   #28
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Mine is (was) real quiet. It didn't even come with a fan!!

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