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Old 05-06-2019, 10:36 PM   #29
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ky Bob,
I think you need to get those coach batteries out, charge them individually and check the voltages during charge, after charge and then every few hours and see if you have a bad battery. I assume you have checked that all cells are full of liquid? If you have one bad battery the whole bank will drain.
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Old 05-08-2019, 05:37 PM   #30
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I am going to take them out Friday night and drop them off at my Interstate Battery location on Saturday. They will charge them to full charge (if they will take a full charge) and run a load test on them. Today I used my Hygrometer and checked specific gravity on each cell and they weren't too bad . The lowest cell of all of the batteries was 215.
I checked the voltage on each battery and they all hav 6 volts.



I made sure the USE/STORE switch was in the STORE position, then I removed the positive lead and saw a spark. So there is something drawing power from the coach batteries even when the switch is in the STORE position. I don't know if there is an easy way to find out what is pulling power. If anyone has any ideas on how to find it , please let me know.
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:31 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ky bob View Post

I made sure the USE/STORE switch was in the STORE position, then I removed the positive lead and saw a spark. So there is something drawing power from the coach batteries even when the switch is in the STORE position. I don't know if there is an easy way to find out what is pulling power. If anyone has any ideas on how to find it , please let me know.
I don't own a motor coach. But for what it is worth, that is typical for USE/STORE switch. It is also called various other things like SALESMEN SWITCH. It disconnects most 12 volt powered devices, but not things like the propane detector and possibly certain other devices.

The MC must be plugged in to maintain the batteries even when STORE switch is off. Some people add a true battery disconnect switch in the battery bay.





With new flooded cell batteries and battery disconnect, you can store without shore power for 3 to 6 months, but you may have to reprogram some control devices when you turn things back on.
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:59 AM   #32
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I don't own a motor coach. But for what it is worth, that is typical for USE/STORE switch. It is also called various other things like SALESMEN SWITCH. It disconnects most 12 volt powered devices, but not things like the propane detector and possibly certain other devices.

The MC must be plugged in to maintain the batteries even when STORE switch is off. Some people add a true battery disconnect switch in the battery bay.





With new flooded cell batteries and battery disconnect, you can store without shore power for 3 to 6 months, but you may have to reprogram some control devices when you turn things back on.
Thanks for the info. I will probably add another Blue Sea Systems heavy duty 600 AMP continuous duty disconnect switch just like the one that is on the coach for disconnecting the 2 chassis batteries. Then when I store it , I can completely disconnect the coach batteries and will not have any power being slowly drained from the coach batteries.

The only bad thing , is the switch is about $90 dollars.
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Old 05-09-2019, 08:49 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ky bob View Post
I am going to take them out Friday night and drop them off at my Interstate Battery location on Saturday. They will charge them to full charge (if they will take a full charge) and run a load test on them. Today I used my Hygrometer and checked specific gravity on each cell and they weren't too bad . The lowest cell of all of the batteries was 215.
I checked the voltage on each battery and they all hav 6 volts.



I made sure the USE/STORE switch was in the STORE position, then I removed the positive lead and saw a spark. So there is something drawing power from the coach batteries even when the switch is in the STORE position. I don't know if there is an easy way to find out what is pulling power. If anyone has any ideas on how to find it , please let me know.
I wonder if the inverter is drawing a parasitic load?
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Old 05-09-2019, 09:23 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ky bob View Post
Thanks for the info. I will probably add another Blue Sea Systems heavy duty 600 AMP continuous duty disconnect switch just like the one that is on the coach for disconnecting the 2 chassis batteries. Then when I store it , I can completely disconnect the coach batteries and will not have any power being slowly drained from the coach batteries.

The only bad thing , is the switch is about $90 dollars.
Yes, this the way to go. I ordered Blue Sea 3000 series switch from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMDLB6/
It has one input and two outputs and it allowed me to use it in place of the threaded connector stud that splits cable from the battery into 2 cables. I have pictures somewhere here, need to find them.

Edit - Pictures are here:
Palazzo mods | upgrades

Without this disconnect your batteries will be dead in 3 - 4 weeks of storage.
Mike
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:04 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by myarmar View Post
Yes, this the way to go. I ordered Blue Sea 3000 series switch from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMDLB6/
It has one input and two outputs and it allowed me to use it in place of the threaded connector stud that splits cable from the battery into 2 cables. I have pictures somewhere here, need to find them.

Edit - Pictures are here:
Palazzo mods | upgrades

Without this disconnect your batteries will be dead in 3 - 4 weeks of storage.
Mike

Mike, I received my Blue Sea Systems 3000 series switch yesterday. Now I need to find a piece of plastic to use as an insulator between the switch and the metal wall.
One of my battery cables was made too short and I found a place to make a new longer cable. I ordered it from www.batterycablesusa.com Their price was great and only charge $3.94 shipping anywhere in the U.S.


My local Interstate Battery Co. store charged and tested my coach batteries and said they were fine. So I will reinstall them and install my new switch.


Next I need to be sure the parameter settings on my Magnum remote panel are set correctly.
This has baffled me a bit.

If you could walk thru yours and let me know all of the settings on yours, I would appreciate it. I can then set mine to the same as yours.
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Old 05-15-2019, 10:15 AM   #36
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Bob, I have AGM batteries, so my settings would not work for you. But it should not be a problem, Magnum has an option to select battery type, I have AGM Lifeline selected, you can select appropriate type for your batteries. This will give you majority of important settings. The rest of them is your choice, read Magnum manual for explanation of each setting.
Good luck with your batteries
Mike.
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Old 05-15-2019, 01:28 PM   #37
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The magnum manual is like Greek to me , but I will take a look at it.
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:35 PM   #38
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Bob,
Here are my inverter settings if it helps at all. I have stock flooded lead acid batteries. Mine have never gone dead in storage however, I do have solar on the roof so if I am outside I get amp hours for free into those battery banks. I suspect you have some type of parasitic drain because it is not normal for them to go dead so easily.
I have the same Magnum inverter just a digital display that is probably different than yours. I have had to periodically adjust the max charge rate. If I am on a 15amp extension cord in my garage then I turn the max charge rate way down so that when the fridge kicks on AND the charger, it doesn't blow a breaker. When on 30amp or 50 amp I move it up to 40% or more. Interestingly, my Firefly Vegatouch won't allow me to select anything higher than 30amp on the shore breaker size. Not sure if that is a glitch or what but it works fine with 50amp service. The charge voltages for Bulk charge, float charge etc. are all automatic on the Magnum once you set the battery type, etc. You don't need to adjust those.
Hope it helps!
Ed
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Old 05-18-2019, 08:26 PM   #39
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I installed the new switch & it should do the job.
I had the batteries tested and they say they are fine. However the front battery on the left side that connects to the input of the new disconnect switch gurgles, or bubbles a bit , even when it was not connected to any wiring when I placed the batteries back in the coach, It also did this before when I had it connected to shore power to recharge the batteries after they got too low to power anything in the coach. This battery also was warm and the other two batteries that I had easy access to were cool.

Is the way this battery is acting normal ?
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Old 05-18-2019, 09:05 PM   #40
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Doesn't sound normal, I suggest to measure voltage on each battery individually and compare. Disconnect one cable on positive pole to separate parallel pairs, let the battery rest for hour or so. The voltages should be the same on all 4 batteries.
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Old 05-19-2019, 11:45 AM   #41
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gurgling and hot sounds like an internal short. If it is a short, it will suck the power out of the other batteries.
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Old 05-19-2019, 04:22 PM   #42
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You can always find better batteries depending upon how much you want to spend, and your boondocking needs.

But for us the Costco 6v GC2 type have done the job well. Our first set lasted from 2011 to 2017, now on the 2nd set, working well, and we just completed a week of blacktop boondocking in a Freightliner lot. The batteries work well, just keep watered and charged when they need it.
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