Help me understand and troubleshoot

[Dalez]

Originally Posted by DMTTRANSPORT

No Main Disconnect Switch?

Just the so called salesman's switch and that doesn't seem to involve these circuits. I added a disconnect to the coach batteries but I still want the systems to operate correctly. Like they say, I don't want to treat the symptoms, I'm looking for the cure.

[BoDu]

In your picture, item #1 the solenoid seems to be a common culprit in things not working. Thor replaced that and the BIRD (Item #4) on my initial trip to Elkhart. Evidently the solenoid mechanical parts have potential corrosion of their copper parts which causes the solenoid to stick occasionally. You can buy a better one on line with silver in place of copper. I have purchased my replacement for the solenoid, but since it is continuing to work correctly I have it as a spare and have not installed. Sometimes a sharp tap on the solenoid will break it free if it is sticking due to corrosion.

( I learned this from my brother-in-law, a mechanic, who used a ball peen hammer to make my tractor start by finding just the right place to tap the starter.)

[TK IV]

I noticed that you put a disconnect switch on the negative side of your house batteries. I think that should be on the positive side

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by TK IV

I noticed that you put a disconnect switch on the negative side of your house batteries. I think that should be on the positive side

The function of a disconnect switch is to stop electrical flow of electrons. It doesn't matter if you cut the circuit on the positive or negative side, the result is the same. Any messing about with wiring away from the batteries will be safe, a complete circuit can't be made until the switch is closed.

[Dalez]

I have a new BIRD on order. The coach battery's were engaging and disengaging the solenoid every time I plugged in or removed that wire from the BIRD. I removed the BIRD and noticed what looks like an overheated spot on the board and a melted area on the plastic housing. I will confirm after replacement.

Thanks again for all the advice.

[Dalez]

Well, replaced the BIRD and the solenoid and everything seems to be working as should be. I was a little nervous at first because the solenoid stayed energized for several hours without the engine running or being plugged in to shore power. After reading the documentation I believe it is normal that it stays energized until the voltage in the batteries drop under 12.6 volts.

[dpinvidic]

Originally Posted by Dalez

Well, replaced the BIRD and the solenoid and everything seems to be working as should be. I was a little nervous at first because the solenoid stayed energized for several hours without the engine running or being plugged in to shore power. After reading the documentation I believe it is normal that it stays energized until the voltage in the batteries drop under 12.6 volts.

That sounds a little strange. My understanding is that it gets energized when one set of batteries is getting a charge which means 13.2v or higher.

If there is no charging going on, there is no reason to tie the batteries together.
It might take a while for the voltage to drop when the charging stops, but several hours seems like a long time.

Regards,

Dan

[YC1]

Originally Posted by Dalez

I have put a disconnect on the house batteries neg side for storage. It just doesn't seem right that as soon as I connect the batteries that this solenoid energizes (it clunks and warms up). I believe the solenoid combines house and chassis batteries together.

Salesmans switch is off and this is the only thing drawing power.

I guess my question is: Should this be solenoid be energized when not plugged in to shore power, no generator running, salesman switch off, basically coach sitting there in storage?

I bet you have a solar panel and it is activating that solenoid circuit. If it is active without any charging source then the BIRD device is defective.

I can explain the BIRD but there are tons of different setups. Do a search in the Google box above for BIRD and you will learn all about it.

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by YC1

I bet you have a solar panel and it is activating that solenoid circuit. If it is active without any charging source then the BIRD device is defective.

I can explain the BIRD but there are tons of different setups. Do a search in the Google box above for BIRD and you will learn all about it.

That was my thought also, that solar panels may be giving a charging voltage that triggered the BIRD.

[Dalez]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

That was my thought also, that solar panels may be giving a charging voltage that triggered the BIRD.

No solar panel. It dropped out at around 12.5 volts. This is a new BIRD. Should it disconnect as soon as charging stops?

[myarmar]

No, it works as intended. Read post #9, or BIRD manual.
Mike

[Dalez]

Originally Posted by myarmar

No, it works as intended. Read post #9, or BIRD manual.
Mike

That's what I thought. Thanks for the confirmation.

Dale

[paid-up]

That Solenoid is nothing but a battery isolator. When the ignition is on, both house batteries and chassis batteries are charged by alternator. When ignition is off, it deactivates that solenoid so your chassis batteries aren't drained by usage of house batteries.

[NettieRegina]

Originally Posted by myarmar

No, it works as intended. Read post #9, or BIRD manual.
Mike

I think everyone should re-read Mike's post #9, it's right out of the Intellitec datasheet for the BIRD that is installed on the 2014 33.2.

Thank you for the good info Mike.

I have an additional related question: I've been noticing lately that, while driving, the engine alternator doesn't charge the house batteries as well as it did previously. The BIRD and Trombetta are functioning as advertised in post #9 (determined using a multimeter at the solenoid) but I'm getting a 1.2v drop across the contactor, is this acceptable. I've got a call in to Trombetta with the question but no answer as yet.

Has anyone else measured this voltage drop?