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Old 03-29-2017, 10:20 AM   #1
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Maintenance Issues

I am on the last leg of a 5000 mile trip in our 2013 33.2 Palazzo. Over all the Palazzo has performed well and we enjoyed it very much and more once all the Maintenance issues are resolved.
1. steering, handles very well on calm day and good road, add a little wind and road ruts I am all over the road.
2.reflection in driver side window at night, unable to see out of window because of reflections notice when I put on bright lights the reflection is gone and I can see out.
3.Dim low beam headlights, at first I could not see how to change the bulb, found a cover over the rear assembly that could be removed to gain access, in stalled Sylvania 9006 Ultras that helped a lot.
4. Wiper blades needed to be replaced, the 18-280 trico did not fit, my wiper arm is much larger. went to camping world and purchased Trico
RV 67-324 at $30.00 each.
5. Bedroom tv has 12 volt, but does not power up no light.
Any recommendations on steering and reflection would be appreciated.
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Old 03-29-2017, 10:46 AM   #2
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Our dealer sent us off the lot with 125 psi in all six tires. After weighing the rig we reduced the front to 95 and discovered a totally different machine. Although in a strong crosswind on a rough road it can still be a handful.
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Old 03-29-2017, 10:54 AM   #3
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First, Congratulations therewego on your trip! That's why I bought an RV.....for the adventure of it all.

How long were you gone on your trip?

Good information you posted.

In regards to your handling. There are a few discussions regarding weight and handling here on the website. Having said that;

1. Have you weighted your coach?
2. How much tank capacity are you traveling with? Full Water? DEF? Diesel? Black and Grey?
3. How do you distribute on board cargo weight?
4. What is your tire pressure set at?
5. Are you towing a car?
6. What speed do you drive?

All of these questions should be factored when considering how your coach handles.

I haven't noticed reflections during night driving, but have noticed some when the sun hits and one of the reflective surfaces. Knowing this, eventually you will cognizant/self conditioned of reflections and adjust accordingly.

Good find on the wiper blades......

As with any electrical problem, I always start with fuses, breakers and switches. Most components inside a motor HOME are not designed to withstand impacts from the road or other movements. Simply stated, with every bump that is absorbed by driving and movement tend to loosen things like electrical connections.
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Old 03-29-2017, 11:01 AM   #4
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For comparison here are my answers in bold:

1. Have you weighted your coach? Yes. with toad 27,260 light cargo, corner weights coming soon.
2. How much tank capacity are you traveling with? Full Water? DEF? Diesel? Black and Grey? 1/3 water, 1/2 tank DEF, Full Diesel, Black and Grey empty.
3. How do you distribute on board cargo weight? As much as possible. Light cargo in rear, heavy up front.
4. What is your tire pressure set at? 90 psi
5. Are you towing a car? Yes
6. What speed do you drive? Cruse set at 62-65, 70 to pass. 55-60 during high winds and inter-city traffic.
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Old 03-29-2017, 11:02 AM   #5
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For us Safe-T-Plus made a world of difference in handling... They are manufactured in the Atlanta area and will install for free if you buy from factory.

TV...we ended up replacing the "barrel" type fuse with a "bayonet" type fuse(like in the newer cars). This fixed our "no power" problems with the TVs.
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:45 PM   #6
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the bedroom 12v tv has an inline fuse that may need to be replaced...

though, I've often wondered why they installed this tv as a 12v model, since our other 4 tvs are all 120v, and the inverter is always on for the fridge anyway... maybe it's because of it's ceiling mount location and 12v might be an easier install - yet there is an unused 120v outlet behind it : /

interesting...
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Old 03-29-2017, 01:12 PM   #7
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I'm not sure if my bedroom TV is 12v.....I'll be checking tomorrow.
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Old 03-29-2017, 01:15 PM   #8
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according to my local Freightliner Shop, they recommended when it's time to upgrade front shocks.
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterT View Post
the bedroom 12v tv has an inline fuse that may need to be replaced...

though, I've often wondered why they installed this tv as a 12v model, since our other 4 tvs are all 120v, and the inverter is always on for the fridge anyway... maybe it's because of it's ceiling mount location and 12v might be an easier install - yet there is an unused 120v outlet behind it : /

interesting...
I'd like to know too. As well I'd like to know why they installed HDMI cable to only one TV. Save 50 cents?
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterT View Post
the bedroom 12v tv has an inline fuse that may need to be replaced...

though, I've often wondered why they installed this tv as a 12v model, since our other 4 tvs are all 120v, and the inverter is always on for the fridge anyway... maybe it's because of it's ceiling mount location and 12v might be an easier install - yet there is an unused 120v outlet behind it : /

interesting...
Maybe because being in the bedroom you would be more likely to run generator, raising the risk of falling sleep and CO poisoning. just a thought
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:05 PM   #11
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All 3 of my tvs are 120v.
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Old 03-31-2017, 07:43 AM   #12
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The 33.2 has the short wheelbase, and wheelbase to length of only 50%. Per the RV consumer group you should have at least 54% for good handling. When it comes to wheelbase, longer is better.

Also all 33.2's have a design that does not put much weight on the front right. The recommendation at Camp Freightliner to me was to add lots of weight to the front right corner. The recommendation was to put a thick piece of plywood with a dowel rods into the front right cargo bay and load it with as much weight as possible. I called Thor tech and was told the bay will carry 1,000 pounds. I am still trying to get the other systems fixed, and trying to get Thor do do something so have not tackled the project.

Freightliner (and the RV Consumer org) says axle weights should be even percent of capacity and should be balanced side to side.

Say without towed you are 24,000 pounds. Total axle capacity is 28,000 pounds (exceeds allowable gross by 2,000 pounds, do not exceed allowable gross of 26,000)

Ideally you want each axle and each wheel position to have 24,000/28000 or 85.7% of capacity.

Front axle should be 10,500 x (24,000/28000) = 9000 pounds.
Each front axle end should be 4,500 pounds.

Rear axle should be 17,500 x (24,000/28000) = 15,000 pounds
Each rear axle end should be 7,500 pounds.

Don't know of anything you can do about the too short wheelbase, so even with perfect balance, you will be at risk in adverse conditions.
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