Palazzo minimum temperature

[Nxeil]

Duane n Lorna

Based on your post I did google heat wrap tape. Can you share which one you purchased and perhaps post a picture of your install. The idea of electricity, heat and propane together has me a bit tentative on trying this without seeing another's successful install.

Thanks

Neil

[Duane n Lora]

Originally Posted by msturtz

Purging is really the process of displacing the air (which contains water vapor) out of a propane tank with propane. Propane is heavier than air. So you slowly fill the empty tank with propane gas not liquid while leaving the vent open for the air to escape. You can’t do this with liquid propane. You can do this yourself with a grill propane tank and a few fittings. A day above freezing is required. Hook up the propane tank to the RV tank filling port or RV plumbing. Slowly fill the tank while leaving the vent open.

Hello msturtz,

Thanks for that info. I'll definitely research that further. In our case, the propane distributors have said that they purge by using some kind of alcohol gas or liquid?? They think that there's actually a small amount of liquid water in our tank and not just moist air.

I'll research your method and ask our propane delivery guy what he thinks, but I'm worried that the method you mention wont get out the liquid water.

[Duane n Lora]

Originally Posted by Nxeil

Duane n Lorna

Based on your post I did google heat wrap tape. Can you share which one you purchased and perhaps post a picture of your install. The idea of electricity, heat and propane together has me a bit tentative on trying this without seeing another's successful install.

Thanks

Neil

Hello Neil,

I certainly can't recommend our method to anyone. I'm just relating my experience and what is working for us. I say this because the heat tape specifically says on the package to not use it on gas lines and to not wrap it around things. I'm doing both of those things, but I'm doing it at the advise from multiple propane suppliers.

Here are two photos of our setup: The first photo is the heat tape with the temp sensor very close to the regulator cover. You can see that I don't overlap the heat tape as instructed by the heat tape manufacturer. The second photo just shows how I cover the whole thing up with a towel to keep in the heat.

I've placed my hand under the towel many times and it never has felt so hot that I thought it was dangerous.

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by Duane n Lora

Hello Neil,

I certainly can't recommend our method to anyone. I'm just relating my experience and what is working for us. I say this because the heat tape specifically says on the package to not use it on gas lines and to not wrap it around things. I'm doing both of those things, but I'm doing it at the advise from multiple propane suppliers.

Here are two photos of our setup: The first photo is the heat tape with the temp sensor very close to the regulator cover. You can see that I don't overlap the heat tape as instructed by the heat tape manufacturer. The second photo just shows how I cover the whole thing up with a towel to keep in the heat.

I've placed my hand under the towel many times and it never has felt so hot that I thought it was dangerous.

While agree it keeps the regulator from freezing up, so would an incandescent light bulb. You followed the instructions not to overlap the heat tape on itself, but you do have in contact along the length of adjacent wraps of the tape. This could cause the heat to build between the wraps, probably why the instructions tell you not to overlap it.

In addition, you have a flammable cloth towel draped over the heat tape. I'd at the very least make sure that tape doesn't come in contact with itself at all. You could also wrap the whole thing with foil to reflect the heat back on the box instead of a towel.

If you position a 40W bulb beside the regulator box and perhaps make an insulated box around the bulb and regulator box, you'd have a safer and just as effective regulator defroster.

[msturtz]

Originally Posted by Duane n Lora

Hello msturtz,

Thanks for that info. I'll definitely research that further. In our case, the propane distributors have said that they purge by using some kind of alcohol gas or liquid?? They think that there's actually a small amount of liquid water in our tank and not just moist air.

I'll research your method and ask our propane delivery guy what he thinks, but I'm worried that the method you mention wont get out the liquid water.

Water vapor is lighter than propane and will exit the vent tube out when purging. The key is to completely empty the tank first. If you have liquid water that is a problem. It’s possible to have condensed water when full of liquid propane especially when the temperature drops. Air can hold less water the lower the temperature. The idea is to get the temperature high enough to get the water to evaporate so it can be purged. I have never heard of using anything else.

[Duane n Lora]

Sorry I missed this ...

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

While agree it keeps the regulator from freezing up, so would an incandescent light bulb. You followed the instructions not to overlap the heat tape on itself, but you do have in contact along the length of adjacent wraps of the tape. This could cause the heat to build between the wraps, probably why the instructions tell you not to overlap it.

In addition, you have a flammable cloth towel draped over the heat tape. I'd at the very least make sure that tape doesn't come in contact with itself at all. You could also wrap the whole thing with foil to reflect the heat back on the box instead of a towel.

I actually corresponded with the manufacturer about this and they told me that the real reason for not overlapping the tape is because people install these things and then forget about them. Over time the rubber degrades and the metal heat tape within can then come in contact with itself and pose a fire hazard. But, if you make sure it's always in good condition (and I do), then the tape touching itself is not a problem. IOW, it's not that the tape touching itself generates to much heat, but that a degraded heat tape that touches itself can short out.

I agree about the towel and that was a last minute addition this one time when the temp dived below 26. And I really like your idea about using a 40w bulb and a tinfoil cover. Thanks. I think I will convert to that method :-)

[Big_Boy]

My wife and I made a 3500 mile trip Tulsa > Kansas City > Washington DC > Orlando > Tulsa starting December 28th and back on January 6th. We barely managed to 'stay ahead of the storm' on this entire trip. Even Orlando went down to 32F! In DC, the temperature went down to 14F with plenty of wind. On all our travels, we had plenty of wind but were lucky to avoid snow/ice.

We did not have any space heaters along with us, so the heating job was entirely for the furnace. We were OK, but the furnace worked overtime and it was wise to wear woolly socks.

I think the Palazzo is a great motorhome. But, as with all economical RVs, there is room for improvement.

From my perspective, this coach could be much better with a few improved seals and a bit more insulation in critical areas. The two slides on our 33.3 both leak air. I started stuffing foam pipe insulation around the bottom of these slides. It's cheap and quick, but you have to remember these before pulling the slides back in.

I wish there was a better way to insulate the lower storage bays. The 1/2" plywood is all these compartments have, and the floor of the coach seems to stay cold. I think if the compartments maybe had 1/2" of insulation added to them, as well as better sealing, the floor would be warmer.

The front and rear interior seal on the large slide leaks around the 'stop' brackets (top and bottom). I think I'll add a 3/4" or 1" tube of foam into these open gaps to reduce air infiltration.

Even with my grousing, I can't think of a better way to travel.

[MisterT]

agreed, we've been thru some 'doozies' when it comes to staying ahead of the storm/winter weather(Feb 2015!) from sunny California thru Nevada(we tried to get up to Reno, but the 'storm' and 'Snow Chains Required Ahead' sign changed our plans!) to Tonopah(NV), but alas, too cold and too much snow and ice!, so off South instead to sunny Las Vegas(or for us, a shortened overnight stay in Pahrump(NV), with a hot tub!)... sweet.
The final destination was, of course, our final warranty stop at Thor in Wakarusa IN, in February!
6 inches of snow and ice, below freezing temps for the several days 'stay', and a new replaced rear main slide Schwintec column and gear.... nice!


yes, small electric heaters, at least when on Shore Power, are what we mainly use to keep the temps inside somewhat temperate, and the furnace when things are just plain too cold. Our slide seals seem to work pretty well when fully out, but there are some improvements that could be had. The stair well seems to be a place where cold can also infiltrate the coach easily - we throw a big blanket down into it for those really cold overnights.


80,000 miles and still going.... enjoy! : )

[wstrace3]

Originally Posted by Big_Boy

My wife and I made a 3500 mile trip Tulsa > Kansas City > Washington DC > Orlando > Tulsa starting December 28th and back on January 6th. We barely managed to 'stay ahead of the storm' on this entire trip. Even Orlando went down to 32F! In DC, the temperature went down to 14F with plenty of wind. On all our travels, we had plenty of wind but were lucky to avoid snow/ice.



We did not have any space heaters along with us, so the heating job was entirely for the furnace. We were OK, but the furnace worked overtime and it was wise to wear woolly socks.



I think the Palazzo is a great motorhome. But, as with all economical RVs, there is room for improvement.



From my perspective, this coach could be much better with a few improved seals and a bit more insulation in critical areas. The two slides on our 33.3 both leak air. I started stuffing foam pipe insulation around the bottom of these slides. It's cheap and quick, but you have to remember these before pulling the slides back in.



I wish there was a better way to insulate the lower storage bays. The 1/2" plywood is all these compartments have, and the floor of the coach seems to stay cold. I think if the compartments maybe had 1/2" of insulation added to them, as well as better sealing, the floor would be warmer.



The front and rear interior seal on the large slide leaks around the 'stop' brackets (top and bottom). I think I'll add a 3/4" or 1" tube of foam into these open gaps to reduce air infiltration.



Even with my grousing, I can't think of a better way to travel.

Must have just missed y’all in Orlando. We were at fort wilderness for New Year’s Eve and went to the Citrus Bowl New Year’s Day. . We left Orlando Jan 2nd just ahead of the cold stuff too.

See y’all in Grapevine !!!!

[Big_Boy]

Originally Posted by wstrace3

Must have just missed y’all in Orlando. We were at fort wilderness for New Year’s Eve and went to the Citrus Bowl New Year’s Day. . We left Orlando Jan 2nd just ahead of the cold stuff too.

See y’all in Grapevine !!!!

Hi, Billy,

Yep. We arrived at Ford Wilderness on January 2nd. Middle daughter is now a Disney employee. See you on the shores of Lake Grapevine!

Gary

[Duane n Lora]

Originally Posted by MisterT

The stair well seems to be a place where cold can also infiltrate the coach easily - we throw a big blanket down into it for those really cold overnights.


80,000 miles and still going.... enjoy! : )

Yes. Those stairs and the shoe locker let in tons of cold air. What we did was go to Lowes, buy 1 inch thick styrofoam, cut it to form a lid for the step well, then cut it into smaller sections. We then used duct tape to create hinges so that the entire thing folds up nicely. Now on cold nights, we just unfold the styrofoam lid and put it in place. It makes a huge difference and keeps out those cold drafts from the stair well.

[KohtangFred]

Originally Posted by msturtz

The Palazzo has heated bays. That said, check the ducting. In mine, the ducts were way too long and the connection to the furnace was loose and fell off. I recommend using metal duct tape to secure the ducts to the furnace. You may also want to shorten and insulate the ducts.

Not all Plazzo's have a
heated water bay. I had a 35.1 2015 and it had no heat in the waterbay. It froze up even with a 1000watt electric heater in bay.