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Old 03-12-2018, 09:10 PM   #43
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Way better than we get! with similar usage as you have here, we get 13.3 to 11.7 in 11-12 hours(no solar). This is with newer regular batteries as of October. So I'd say you are doing very well(and I'm surprised at how well those numbers read for you)
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Old 03-12-2018, 10:58 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palazzoteam View Post
Way better than we get! with similar usage as you have here, we get 13.3 to 11.7 in 11-12 hours(no solar). This is with newer regular batteries as of October. So I'd say you are doing very well(and I'm surprised at how well those numbers read for you)
For those that are interested, here are the pics of the actual voltage readings. Note the times at top right.

The 1142 am is at essentially the 24 hour mark the next day 12.1 v.
11:23pm is about 11.5 hours in to the test 12.4v
12:55pm is 1 hour after starting the test at 12.5 v
11:54 am is the start of the test (note voltage is high because I just disconnected shore power) 13.3v (upper left on this screen).

Note, I had no AC and No heat running and the fridge had an advantage because it was only 60 deg in the coach. Hence why I opened fridge and freezer each hour until bedtime multiple times to get it to cycle.
I also noted that the voltage would jump back up .1 or .2v when the fridge stopped cycling but didn't get pictures always of that difference.

Hopefully this data is at least helpful and hopeful for some of you.
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:05 AM   #45
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iluvuk....if you had it to do over again and the dealer offered you a choice of the residential refrigerator or the old style gas/electric refrigerator which would you choose?
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:37 AM   #46
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iluvuk....if you had it to do over again and the dealer offered you a choice of the residential refrigerator or the old style gas/electric refrigerator which would you choose?
I would choose gas/electric over compressor (residential) any day assuming size was similar. I've now owned both, I could boondock 4-5 days without using gen with a gas fridge.
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:42 AM   #47
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iluvuk....if you had it to do over again and the dealer offered you a choice of the residential refrigerator or the old style gas/electric refrigerator which would you choose?
Btw, I lived in Clovis for 12years, loved it. great rodeo...and fruit
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Old 03-13-2018, 05:44 AM   #48
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I wonder if you save any power by turning off the fridge for 8 hours. When you turned it back on, it has to run longer to cool back down. Letting it run a few short cycles overnight may have balanced out.
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Old 03-13-2018, 07:06 AM   #49
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I wonder if you save any power by turning off the fridge for 8 hours. When you turned it back on, it has to run longer to cool back down. Letting it run a few short cycles overnight may have balanced out.
I think you are correct. I thought the same thing. It ran steady for a couple of hours in the morn. Might have been even less energy use if left on. Test 2?
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Old 03-13-2018, 07:41 AM   #50
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You mentioned probably being able to take it down to 11.8 volts at 30 hours before needing to recharge.

11.81 volts is generally considered to be about 30% of battery capacity remaining. If using standard lead/acid batteries, I've always read that discharging them below 50% on a regular basis will significantly reduce the battery life.

Personally we try to never go below 12.1 volts which is 50%. We have 4 6v golf cart batteries which will probably need replacing soon as they are 7 years old now.

We have 4 6v golf cart batteries, a Frigidaire residential fridge, and I use a CPAP. We routinely go about 20 hours or so with the battery seldom going below 12.4 volts.
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Old 03-13-2018, 08:47 AM   #51
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You mentioned probably being able to take it down to 11.8 volts at 30 hours before needing to recharge.

11.81 volts is generally considered to be about 30% of battery capacity remaining. If using standard lead/acid batteries, I've always read that discharging them below 50% on a regular basis will significantly reduce the battery life.

Personally we try to never go below 12.1 volts which is 50%. We have 4 6v golf cart batteries which will probably need replacing soon as they are 7 years old now.

We have 4 6v golf cart batteries, a Frigidaire residential fridge, and I use a CPAP. We routinely go about 20 hours or so with the battery seldom going below 12.4 volts.
Yep. I agree with you. I was just making an observation. I wouldn't want to damage my batteries. I see lots of people seem to set lbco at 11.8. Hence I focused on that. I'm not real clear on if 11.9 or 12 V LBCO IS really proven to be better but I agree with your method to be safe. Anyone know for sure, not just heresay?
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Old 03-13-2018, 08:58 AM   #52
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The volt reading of a battery in use is very inaccurate.

11.8 volts while drawing current will probably spring back up to 12.01 volts, the 50% range after a while.

As a test you could draw down to 11.8 volts, shut down all draw and read the voltage a few hours latter. You may find it springs back to 60% state of charge or so.

I have learned to trust my battery monitors state of charge readings and not worry about the voltage as much.
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:19 AM   #53
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The volt reading of a battery in use is very inaccurate.

11.8 volts while drawing current will probably spring back up to 12.01 volts, the 50% range after a while.

As a test you could draw down to 11.8 volts, shut down all draw and read the voltage a few hours latter. You may find it springs back to 60% state of charge or so.

I have learned to trust my battery monitors state of charge readings and not worry about the voltage as much.
This might be why folks are commonly allowing LBCO at 11.8v. Does your controller allow to set LBCO by percent charge or is it on volts? Mine shows volts and then a colored in Pic of a battery representing percent charge by how much is colored in. I have to set LBCO by volts on mine.
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:42 AM   #54
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The volt reading of a battery in use is very inaccurate.

11.8 volts while drawing current will probably spring back up to 12.01 volts, the 50% range after a while.

As a test you could draw down to 11.8 volts, shut down all draw and read the voltage a few hours latter. You may find it springs back to 60% state of charge or so.

I have learned to trust my battery monitors state of charge readings and not worry about the voltage as much.
Twinboat, to your point, I read yesterday that lead acid battery needs to be off load for about 3 hours to get the true state of charge because it will read low under load like you said. Here is a table I found. I am curious if we have any chemical or electrical engineers that can verify the accuracy of this stuff. Also, does your "state of charge" percentage change when on and off load on your meter?? Thanks!
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:42 AM   #55
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This might be why folks are commonly allowing LBCO at 11.8v. Does your controller allow to set LBCO by percent charge or is it on volts? Mine shows volts and then a colored in Pic of a battery representing percent charge by how much is colored in. I have to set LBCO by volts on mine.
Your Magnum inverter/charger can use state of charge, but you need to add BMK module. Then you can use SOC for AGS and for LBCO based on SOC using Magnum remote, not sure about your touch screen. If you are serious about power management I'd suggest to install it. So much more informative to monitor AmpHours in and out and see battery SOC.
Also, there is no magic in 50% SOC level, you can go lower once in a while if needed. Yes, it reduces battery life, but same with let's say 50% vs. 60%. You would get more service life from the battery if you only let it discharge to 60%, but so what? Just use your battery and enjoy boondocking.
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:45 AM   #56
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Now I am really curious to hear from an engineer because I am wondering if the "state of charge" percentage on a monitor is just calculated off the current voltage (or some recent average voltage) of the voltage being measured? Or is it actually some other calculation?
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