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Old 02-22-2018, 10:11 AM   #1
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Stock battery life

I just purchased a 2018 33.3. I have never owned a unit with a residential refrigerator before; always gas/electric. We boondock occasionally but usually only for 1-2 nights and in parks that don't appreciate generators coming on at night. Will the factory batteries be sufficient, assuming good energy conservation on lights, minimal TV, etc, for 72 hours of use of the refrigerator? Assume minimal sun to the solar panel. I haven't yet done the amp hours calculations because I don't know the amp draw of the fridge yet. I am looking for the experience others have had with fridge run times on factory battery setup. Also, any other advice would be great!
Thanks!
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Old 02-22-2018, 10:26 AM   #2
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do you mean 72 hours straight with NO generator? certainly not.... but your coach IS well designed for the AGS to start your generator anytime it needs to recharge the batteries, if you set it properly... even including 'Quiet Time' for campgrounds who limit your generator run hours.

the residential fridge itself is not a 'culprit' to any off-grid living, it just means that your batteries, well suited for holding a charge for many hours under light usage, will require recharging more often.... nothing other than that is different.

now, whenever folks ask these 'general' questions about "how long will my batteries last", there's no stock answer. Everyone uses electricity and 12v items differently, at different times, and for different lengths... with a small amount of solar, and the panel is in the sun many hours of the day, you may experience more time without the generator, but ultimately, you WILL need to run the generator... that's what it's there for.
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Old 02-22-2018, 02:43 PM   #3
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I have a 2014 Palazzo 33.1and no solar. My batteries will usually hold overnight during quiet hours. I have my AGS set to come on at 12.2 volts and run for two hours. If you set the quiet time, the genset should come on and run for 30 minutes prior to the start of quiet time. Bore down into the AGS settings and change from RV to Other. When set to RV, the AGS will turn OFF if you manually start the generator. When set to Other, it will remain On until you turn it Off. Nothing like having the AGS unknowingly turn Off and running your batteries down.
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Old 02-22-2018, 03:32 PM   #4
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thanks, Jim, go to know about the end-of-Quiet-Time top-off, I wasn't aware the ME-RC had that function, only the higher end ME-ARC unit.

also, set the LBCO function setting to 11.5 and you'll also save your batteries during the night if they DO drop too low, and your AGS is not able to start the generator due to Quiet Time restrictions.
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Old 02-22-2018, 04:19 PM   #5
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We dry camp/boondock..... and have always struggled with this whirlpool residential fridge and it constantly running at night(both fan and cooler).
So what we do is make sure the refrigerator is on and cool the night before(we live in AZ) with anything we can fill it up with(than those items can cool with it overnight). THIS HELPS keep it cool and not run as often the next day. We do need to top off our batteries later at night to hold a charge till quiet time ends the next morning(we have our bmk set to 11.7) and it usually makes it. But that whirlpool residential eats up batteries to fast if you ask us. We replaced our original 3 year old batters(2013 33.3) with new ones early last year and we still have same issue. Also... we rarely fill that fridge(We do the freezer tho) up! We do live in AZ and the coach does get warm... but really hasn't seemed to effect the running of the Whirlpool. Would like to hear of others here on this thread feel the same?
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Old 02-22-2018, 04:30 PM   #6
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I understand that everyone has different experiences and expectations when it comes to off-grid times... I've not experienced any 'issues' with the use of our fridge, but I'll also say that we all use our fridges differently. Some of us are loaded up(ours!), and some not so much. Some of us run ours very 'low'(#1 or 2 setting), while others run it to the max temp. Some of us are in and out of our fridge and freezer many times during the day and night, and the others of us not so much. Some of us are in hot temperatures, and others are not.... just like anything electrical, the differences can be amazing.

several things can help, though:
- turn the Fridge temp setting down, open the door less often, maybe even turn it to OFF overnight
- check the condition of your battery bank... sometimes when things are not 'lasting' long enough, it could be that the batteries need to be 'equalized'... press the Magnum INVERTER button for several seconds, when you are on 50a service, and let it 'equalize' the batteries. Over about 4 hours it will 'overcharge' the batteries, under a supervised amperage load, creating a more 'equal' environment between the batteries. I've done this and noticed a nice difference in the 'time' between generator runs, under similar conditions.
- make sure that your Magnum SHORE button setting is at 40 or even 50amps, so that when you generator runs to Charge your battery bank, especially right before 'Quiet Time', it can use the most amps to the Charger.

*could it be your fridge's compressor? maybe. It's hard to know, but I would try these other options first and see if they make a difference, if you're not already doing them.
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Old 02-22-2018, 05:08 PM   #7
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Ice makers will suck a bunch of energy. Shut them off while boondocking.
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Old 02-22-2018, 10:50 PM   #8
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batteries

Thanks. Good comments. I would love even more ideas. So, it sounds like you are generally running your generator at least daily if not twice to keep enough energy for that fridge. So different than what I am accustomed to doing given we always had a propane fridge that barely used any propane. Sounds like my boondocking days are going to be much different and noisier than before.
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Old 02-23-2018, 06:44 AM   #9
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I have a 2017 33.3 unit, but I have upgraded the inverter to the Magnum 3012MSH. My battery SOC his about 50% after around 30 hours if the unit is sitting there alone. The TVs, opening the refrigerator door, etc, are the things that end up hurting you more than you realize.

Kind of a random side note, but when it is cold enough that you don't need A/C then the unit is amazingly efficient. We can visit friends and run off a 15amp regular outdoor plug.
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Old 02-23-2018, 04:53 PM   #10
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Interesting. This is exactly the kind of real experience I am looking to hear about. Mine has the 100w solar panel on the roof so I expect it will help a bit if it is in the sun and might add slightly to your 30 hr number. I can't wait to find out!
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Old 02-23-2018, 04:57 PM   #11
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Batteries and Inverter

Does anyone know the amperage draw of the inverter when it is idle? I know they burn some juice just sitting there even if you aren't running anything off 120v. I read that the whirlpool fridge draws about 6.5 amps. Is that accurate? That seems like a lot to me if it is a 120V fridge. I'm trying to start to do the amp hour calculations for the energy demands of the stock fridge on the 2018 33.3. Has anyone done the calculations? Thanks for all the help!
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Old 02-23-2018, 05:03 PM   #12
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https://www.gonewiththewynns.com/rv-...igerator-power


Searh around, there are other estimates out there.

1x 100w solar will give you about 25a/hrs a day in full sun. That's a trickle charger. Same as we have on our MH.
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Old 02-24-2018, 05:58 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by iluvuk View Post
Does anyone know the amperage draw of the inverter when it is idle? I know they burn some juice just sitting there even if you aren't running anything off 120v. I read that the whirlpool fridge draws about 6.5 amps. Is that accurate? That seems like a lot to me if it is a 120V fridge. I'm trying to start to do the amp hour calculations for the energy demands of the stock fridge on the 2018 33.3. Has anyone done the calculations? Thanks for all the help!
you also have to consider that any fridge is only going to 'pull amps' when it is actually running, which is much less frequent than you might consider. You can't use a 'amps' calculation if you also don't know how 'often' it is running, which is different depending on the 'bulk' of the items, the 'Temp' setting you use, the outside/inside temp of the coach, how often you open the door(s), whether you use the ice maker, etc, etc.
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvuk View Post
Does anyone know the amperage draw of the inverter when it is idle? I know they burn some juice just sitting there even if you aren't running anything off 120v. I read that the whirlpool fridge draws about 6.5 amps. Is that accurate? That seems like a lot to me if it is a 120V fridge. I'm trying to start to do the amp hour calculations for the energy demands of the stock fridge on the 2018 33.3. Has anyone done the calculations? Thanks for all the help!
My 7 c.f. residential fridge draws 1 amp and runs about 1/3 the time. That calculates to 10 amps @12 volts ÷3 = 3.3 AH.

The 6.5 amp listing is probably the max draw with ice maker in heat mode, compressor running and all lights on. The energy guides yearly KWH usage, divided by 365 days, will give a closer number.

Inverters have an IDLE draw and should be listed in the specs. Some as low as 1/2 amp, up to 4 amp draw.

I had an inverter that drew 4 amps or 4 AH in idle mode. It was a bigger consumer of power then the actual fridge, it was running. I swapped it out for a .5 AH draw model.
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