A/C with 2000 watt generator?

[Natebert]

Originally Posted by fisher99

Interesting to hear that some are running their 13.5 AC fine with two Honda 2000's and others aren't. I figured if the Honda dealer couldn't make it work reliably for my friend, then it probably just wouldn't work. Apparently there are some nuances that can make or break this situation.

In any case, it causes me to ask what you folks think of the AC unit in your ORV products? Mine seems to be ok if the temps are in the high 80's but if it gets above that (and especially if the trailer is in direct sunshine), then it simply can't keep up. The AC unit in my previous Outback trailer did a slightly better job, but then again it was a 4' shorter trailer so had a bit less volume to cool. But then again the Wind River has better insulation so you'd think it would be easier to cool.

In any case, my wife and I are usually fine if we are boondocking and the temps get into the 80's or even low 90's. And even with the quiet Honda's I think we would rather have the heat than the noise. I can't imagine running a couple of generators for several hours just to cool it down a few degrees. And if we ever end up where the temps are closer to triple digits, then I think we'd have to have a 2nd AC unit installed in order to be effective at all, and then you've got a whole different generator situation... Of course maybe my AC unit is weaker than normal? Maybe need to have it checked for coolant? Will be interested to hear what you guys think of yours in high 80's, low 90's temps.

My 2016 WR trailer has the darker cap, and darker sides and seems to build up heat fast in the summer where the AC can't keep up even with outside temps in the low 90s, the inside can't get below 78-80. (And my AC has the upgraded roof fan)

I feel at times I should have ordered the 50amp service and gotten the 2nd AC. I can probably retro-fit if necessary at added expense now.

[dagmandt]

Originally Posted by BSE

Has anyone started their 13.5 A/C unit and been able to run with a 2000 watt generator?

Thanks in advance

Yep, runs just fine with the Honda 2000. I do it all the time. It also runs off my shore power when hooked up to 15 amp service.

Contrary to some others, my AC keeps up in temps over 100 degrees just fine. My trailer is the 250-RDSW with one AC unit. I have the quiet fan conversion.

[dagmandt]

Originally Posted by fisher99

Interesting. I've got about 9' more trailer to cool, but seems like it shouldn't make that much difference. Guess I'll have to have my AC unit checked out.

Check the inside inlet to be sure the baffle hasn't been jarred out of place. That will essentially kill your AC flow and efficiency.

Here is a short video I put together showing what I found on mine. After correcting it my cooling capacity essentially doubled.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPgaO2Kt2uE

[1bigmess]

Originally Posted by dagmandt

Yep, runs just fine with the Honda 2000. I do it all the time. It also runs off my shore power when hooked up to 15 amp service.

What is your voltage drop when the AC comes on? Voltage drop might eventually kill your A/C.

[dagmandt]

Originally Posted by 1bigmess

What is your voltage drop when the AC comes on? Voltage drop might eventually kill your A/C.

I haven't measured it yet but there is no noticeable hard start or dimming of lights or anything. Because it works fine off of the 15 amp shore power I'd assume the generator isn't causing any issue. If it was drawing more than 15 amps my house breaker would definitely trip. When I run the generator and AC I don't use the variable speed to ensure I have max amps/volts. I know that isn't scientific but it seems to work without issues. Have an easy way to measure voltage drop? I'll give it a try. I suppose measuring at an outlet with my volt meter would be sufficient while it kicks on.

[Skeetsbo]

Dagmandt, knowing that many folks run their ac units on their 2000 watt generators I asked the service manager at my dealer who did my PDI about doing this. His response was that it can work but it's not best practice in that if any other load may be on or a light guage cord is used you can burn up your a/c unit very quickly. He said he replaces about 100 a/c units a year in rv's because folks take them home and plug them in to a 110 circuit 15 amp or a 2000 watt generator in the driveway and ruin them.

I'm not saying you're wrong because if it works it works, but he just laughed when I prodded him and said "they think they know until they write me the check then they realize they don't." He said the good thing about advice is you can take it or leave it but I've made a lot of money in my career because people simply won't listen to those of us that deal with the issues every single day. They always tell you it just went out but you can't tell very quickly what happened and it's usually not covered by their warranty. It's on a separate 20 amp breaker on both units in my rv so there must be some logic to it.

I'll definately check on your fix for the baffles! Thanks for that tip and video.

[dagmandt]

Originally Posted by Skeetsbo

Dagmandt, knowing that many folks run their ac units on their 2000 watt generators I asked the service manager at my dealer who did my PDI about doing this. His response was that it can work but it's not best practice in that if any other load may be on or a light guage cord is used you can burn up your a/c unit very quickly. He said he replaces about 100 a/c units a year in rv's because folks take them home and plug them in to a 110 circuit 15 amp or a 2000 watt generator in the driveway and ruin them.

I'm not saying you're wrong because if it works it works, but he just laughed when I prodded him and said "they think they know until they write me the check then they realize they don't." He said the good thing about advice is you can take it or leave it but I've made a lot of money in my career because people simply won't listen to those of us that deal with the issues every single day. They always tell you it just went out but you can't tell very quickly what happened and it's usually not covered by their warranty. It's on a separate 20 amp breaker on both units in my rv so there must be some logic to it.

I'll definately check on your fix for the baffles! Thanks for that tip and video.

Yep, I'd never try it with a larger AC unit but the smaller 13,500 BTU like mine seem to work fine. I'll measure the voltage drop to see what's what. I do use my heavy gauge shore power cable with the generator and with my 15 amp shore power hook up at home so the gauge will be more than sufficient. I'll report back with what I find so others can learn as well. Probably won't get to it right away though but maybe within a week. At $500 to replace the unit I'm not terribly concerned since I can install it myself but if I can prevent a premature failure due to voltage drop I'll definitely fall in line. Putting that $500 towards the second Honda to pair them would be my next move if the drop is too much.

Let us know what you find with the baffle check. Mine was really leaking bad.

[1bigmess]

Voltage drop is best seen with an inexpensive analog volt meter. Digital meters often don't have a fast enough refresh rate to see the bottom of the drop.

[dagmandt]

Originally Posted by 1bigmess

Voltage drop is best seen with an inexpensive analog volt meter. Digital meters often don't have a fast enough refresh rate to see the bottom of the drop.

Sounds like a plan. I have a digital meter... I'll see about getting an analog meter.

[fisher99]

Originally Posted by dagmandt

Check the inside inlet to be sure the baffle hasn't been jarred out of place. That will essentially kill your AC flow and efficiency.

Here is a short video I put together showing what I found on mine. After correcting it my cooling capacity essentially doubled.

Nice video. I'm going to check mine out tomorrow.

[Lac]

Originally Posted by dagmandt

Check the inside inlet to be sure the baffle hasn't been jarred out of place. That will essentially kill your AC flow and efficiency.

Here is a short video I put together showing what I found on mine. After correcting it my cooling capacity essentially doubled.

This is a great video...after viewing it..sure enough my baffle wasn't sitting right. Followed the video instruction and my cooling improved dramatically. Also found out only 2 long bolts ....not 4.....were holding the AC unit. Fixed that as we'll.

Many thanks dagmandt....
Coops

[fisher99]

Originally Posted by dagmandt

Check the inside inlet to be sure the baffle hasn't been jarred out of place. That will essentially kill your AC flow and efficiency.

Here is a short video I put together showing what I found on mine. After correcting it my cooling capacity essentially doubled.

Just checked mine and it was sealed nicely along the sides and bottom, but had a gap of about 3/16 along the top. Not sure if that is significant or not, but I sealed it with duct tape. Since my A/C is marginal once the temps get above the mid 80's, I'll be happy with any improvement.

Thanks again for posting this video!

[Gerryl]

I now can run one of my AC units (13,500 BTU) using ONE Honda EU2000. Found out how by reading a thread on this forum.

To find out how, go to:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f105/what...ve-285941.html

When I had a travel Trailer, I had to use 2 EU2000s hooked in parallel. What a pain that was.

[fisher99]

Originally Posted by Gerryl

I now can run one of my AC units (13,500 BTU) using ONE Honda EU2000. Found out how by reading a thread on this forum.

To find out how, go to:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f105/what...ve-285941.html

When I had a travel Trailer, I had to use 2 EU2000s hooked in parallel. What a pain that was.

VERY interesting! You're right, it's not cheap, but then again it's about 1/3 the cost of a 2nd Honda generator (not even counting the parallel kit). Some of the posts on that thread seem to indicate that it doesn't seem to tax the Honda when the A/C is running (not starting). Have you found that to be true? Did you install this yourself?