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Old 11-06-2015, 05:49 PM   #1
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Acessing the bottom of the trailer

Hi

Has anyone removed the the insulating plastic (Coroplast) sheet that covers the bottom of an Outdoors trailer?

It looks easy enough but so do allot of things until you try them.

Thanks
John
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Old 11-06-2015, 06:45 PM   #2
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Nope, and I never want to see what is inside that area.
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Old 11-06-2015, 06:50 PM   #3
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Yep, I've done it. Depending on the year of your trailer you may have to grind the rivets off then replace with self tapping screws. I had to open mine to fix a leak in the fresh water tank and again to replace the black tank valve.

The wiring is ugly under there. Pretty poor job of it without any supports, just thrown around. Besides that it looks fairly decent under there with a layer of bubble wrap type insulation.

If you end up doing it, check the heating vent hole that goes into the water holding area... The small hole that is supposed to direct heat into the holding tank area was plugged with insulation. They didn't make sure it vented through the hole in the insulation and it was completely blocking the heat. Easy fix but I would have never known.
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Old 11-07-2015, 11:21 AM   #4
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When dealer came to house to repair "broken" slide a week after purchase, the techs had a "tool" to pull the rivets that hold the coroplast on to the frame. They are reuseable, IF you have the tool!!!

Wonder if ORVPDMAN would have any info on this tool??!!
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Old 11-07-2015, 10:34 PM   #5
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Just this week I needed to access the underside of my Creekside. While starting my winterize process, I found my fresh water drain handle had come loose. I was unable to drain fresh water tank. So, using a pry bar, I popped off four rivets which allowed my to drop the corolast far enough to reach in and reattach my fresh water drain rod. I reused the same four rivets to reattach the corolast.
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Old 11-08-2015, 02:13 PM   #6
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We have at the front, as there was a fresh water leak dripping from it. The issue ended up being the fresh water fill tube connection under the kitchen sink. A second hose clamp did the trick. Not too easy to remove the entire bottom due to iron pipe gas line being installed tight against it. We ground off rivets and replaced with tapping screws.


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