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Old 10-16-2018, 01:24 PM   #57
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Would a light switch face plate work? I've seen metal ones that might fill the bill nicely.
It might work if not to thick. I would still have to cut out the opening for the meter. Don't know if a dremil would cut it or not.
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Old 10-16-2018, 03:06 PM   #58
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Thanks. I hadn’t thought about it showing less if things were on. I’ll just make sure everything is off when I check. I’ll start simple and work up to the one that gives all the data.
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Old 10-16-2018, 03:09 PM   #59
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I considered something similar when I wanted some way to monitor battery levels in my motorhome. There is at least one disadvantage with a voltage meter only. You can't see how much current is going into the battery (charging) and you can't see how much current is going out of the battery (usage rate). As an example, if you check your battery voltage and it's showing about 12.2 volts, you'd be thinking I've gotta get these batteries charged. But maybe the bathroom fan and lights are running. That can significantly lower the battery voltage level until they're turned off... at which time the voltage will "recover". For me, I wanted to know more about what is happening electrically to avoid problems. By checking the current (Amps) usage, I know how to trim the "electrical budget". If I was using solar cells, I could also optimize their position by how much current they're producing.
So in my mind, there are many more advantages in a full information display.
Thanks. I hadn’t thought about it showing less if things were on. I’ll just make sure everything is off when I check. I’ll start simple and work up to the one that gives all the data.
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:33 AM   #60
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Would a light switch face plate work? I've seen metal ones that might fill the bill nicely.
I think the metal electrical face plate idea might be a good one... just about the right thickness. I was thinking that the blank cover plate might be a better choice. The screw holes are placed closer to the edges allowing more room for the cut out.

When I made one out of a plastic project box I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. If you take your time it'll make a nice cut but they're very thin and brittle... it might take a couple wheels to make the cut.
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Old 10-18-2018, 08:40 AM   #61
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If you can get the Nylon faceplate, no issues w/ brittle, can almost bend in half without cracking :-)
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Old 10-18-2018, 11:26 AM   #62
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My understanding is that the PD unit I am looking at is a replacement for the converter section of the WFCO unit. Thus I'll keep the WFCO circuit breaker and fuse section.

Bob
Yes! That's it.
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Old 10-18-2018, 11:31 AM   #63
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OldBiscuit/wfred,

What are there advantages of the Boondocker over the Progressive Dynamics unit?

Why should I increase my current current rating to something above 35 amps?

Thanks!

Bob
That's available amps, in case you add something, like lighting, stereo Amp, that will run off of the PD unit while charging your batteries after a 2 day boondock.
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Old 10-18-2018, 11:42 AM   #64
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Cooooool! I have an inverter and I use an extension cord into the trailer for power. Works.


But to have an Inverter with built in transfer switch so I could have 110V power at all plug ins all the time! Sweet!


Do I wire that right into the WFCO? How do I do that?



Jim
The inverter 110vac is limited to how much 12vdc battery capacity you have while boondocking .
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Old 10-18-2018, 11:49 AM   #65
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At a recent boondock a couple of very close by neighbors were running there inverters powered By internal combustion engines, all night and day. Just not designed to run the electric blanket or heater all night, the inverter should run an item off of the battery bank overnite, and then be run the next day to recharge.
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Old 10-18-2018, 05:10 PM   #66
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At a recent boondock a couple of very close by neighbors were running there inverters powered By internal combustion engines, all night and day. Just not designed to run the electric blanket or heater all night, the inverter should run an item off of the battery bank overnite, and then be run the next day to recharge.
Internal combustion engine run inverters are called inverter/generators. A type of portable generator. It's designed to run at variable speeds, depending on load, to produce steady 120 volt AC power.

A Inverter is a electronic device that creates 120 volts AC from 12 volt batteries. There are modified square wave and sine wave types. The sine wave models produce power that is almost the same as power supplied to your home.
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Old 10-18-2018, 09:04 PM   #67
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Yes! That's it.
The PD unit was delivered with a replacement fuse block but not the 110v ckt bkrs.

Bob
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Old 10-18-2018, 10:57 PM   #68
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The PD unit was delivered with a replacement fuse block but not the 110v ckt bkrs.

Bob
You just remove the charging unit from the old unit reusing the breakers, wire the new PD unit in place of the old charger.
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Old 11-10-2018, 05:51 PM   #69
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Project Complete

My installation of the Progressive Dynamic converter is now complete. The system is running as designed and advertised.

The only complication was that the Pendant I purchased on Amazon didn't work so I returned it. And the replacement didn't work either! I called PD tech support and the very helpful rep couldn't understand what was going on so he sent out a replacement converter. I installed that and the problem remained.

When I returned the original PD converter to PD I included the non-working Pendant as well. The PD tech rep bench tested the pair and determined that the wiring for the Pendant was wrong! He sent me a correctly wired Pendant now all is well.

Long story, sorry, but maybe helpful to someone, someday.

Bob
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Old 11-10-2018, 06:13 PM   #70
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That's my next project, thanks for the heads up.
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