Catalytic heater for 20FQ

[Mordecai]

Originally Posted by UTTransplant

The ORVs are probably much better insulated than your old trailer was. I would really recommend using the built in furnace. Turn it on before bed, get it nice and warm, then turn it off and use blankets. The first one up in the morning turns it on. That way you have no sound from the heater cycling on and off and you will still wake up in the morning. Really, don’t take the chance.

I honestly appreciate your concern. I am going into this with an open mind. Your take on this may end up being the most feasible.

[Mordecai]

Originally Posted by Rickeoni

Not saying anything other than this should be a good debate.

I have to say, you guys are several cuts above the usual forum population. I appreciate it.

[brulaz]

In a 20FQ you are pretty close to the furnace when sleeping. Our 24RKS is better, but it's till noticeable, and I'm a light sleeper. Recently added an external baffle to the return vent of our furnace that helps some. Strategic placing of curtains between sleeping area and the furnace also helps.

But really do prefer some form of radiant heat to blowing warm air around.
(At home we use the wood stove for 99% of our heating, even though our ducted furnace prolly cost 10x what the wood stove did.)

Some folks have re-plumbed their hot water heater and installed a finned hot water radiator. Simple mod with a hot water pump on a timer. Maybe one-of-these-days ...

[Rickeoni]

Originally Posted by Mordecai

I have to say, you guys are several cuts above the usual forum population. I appreciate it.

To many internet tough guys in the world these days.

[Downwindtrac]

Any form of condensation in a RV is to be avoided. Have you heard of black mold and rot? Not healthy. With their vinyl clad plywood walls they don't breath.


I've used cat heaters. You need a 12"x12" open window by your head to be safe. Every year hunters die in their campers due to suffocation. Cats burn oxygen. We had a close call. We were hunting with a 12x14 wall tent. Wall tents don't have floors and just tie up doors. They are loose. I used a cat outdoors to warm me while I cooked breakfast. One morning to help the sleepy heads get up I pointed the heater in the door of the tent. They got up drowsy with headaches.


We have a '13 20FQ, they are no where near as well insulated as the latest ones and the furnace does OK,. Ours is one heck of a lot better than other trailers.


When winter camping: If you have power, you can get away a 1500 watt electric heater. If you don't, you will need a genny anyway. Furnaces with fans kick out more heat, I've had both in campers, it's a truly pleasurable difference. But fans use battery power, like one battery, one night. When it was really cold during a November hunt in the high country, I used the genny all night with a heater and the furnace. We had heavy down sleeping bags as well.

[jtbuilds]

Originally Posted by Mordecai

I think below a certain temp that's most likely correct. For our use, it's kept our little trailer comfortable(65ish F) when the outside temp is in the 30s. The benefit drops off pretty sharply below those temps.

The venting removes the burned gas. If there is any heat gain the burned gas is not being removed.

I spent my money on one of these.

https://www.rockymountainwesty.com/P...t_p/hs2000.htm

Installing a quick disconnect inside a trailer is like storing gasoline cans under the sink. Just a mater of time until something leaks. The O ring seals in a QD have 1/64" contact between the male and female sides.

[Mordecai]

Originally Posted by jtbuilds

The venting removes the burned gas. If there is any heat gain the burned gas is not being removed.

I spent my money on one of these.

https://www.rockymountainwesty.com/P...t_p/hs2000.htm

Installing a quick disconnect inside a trailer is like storing gasoline cans under the sink. Just a mater of time until something leaks. The O ring seals in a QD have 1/64" contact between the male and female sides.

Thanks for this link. This interests me. Will have to do a little research.

[R.B]

Originally Posted by jtbuilds

The venting removes the burned gas. If there is any heat gain the burned gas is not being removed.

I spent my money on one of these.

https://www.rockymountainwesty.com/P...t_p/hs2000.htm

Where did you end up installing it in the trailer?

[Swauk]

My wife and I are taking delivery of a 20FQ this spring and I am busy making plans for "improvements" to the stock trailer.

We, (Mrs_Senior), and I bought our 20fq this spring and decided to to just use it and see what "improvements are really needed. Given the ample sized propane tanks and the one thing we did right away was go to 2 trojans for batteries. We have been totally pleased with the heating system on the trailer as is. For next spring I am going to install some solar power and that should do us. My point being is to go for a season and see what you really "need". It could save you tons of money to do other things.

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by Mordecai

Thanks for this link. This interests me. Will have to do a little research.

$745 for a 6,500 BTU externally vented LP heater with a fan. Hmmm....sounds like what your RV already has built in and ducted through the floor, but I bet the built-in furnace has much more BTU capacity. Like I said, add an additional battery and your LP furnace will easily handle the trailer. You'll breathe easier (and safer) and no having to pipe an LP fitting to the inside, fire or scorching danger, etc. While the above LP 'heater' might use less LP, it also produces much less heat, so has to run more.

[jtbuilds]

Originally Posted by Mordecai

Thanks for this link. This interests me. Will have to do a little research.

It can be mounted 6' (max length of flexible exhaust) from the outside wall. Both the intake and exhaust need to be run to the outside.

It is +/-20% more efficient than a Suburban heater.

The outlet is 3". I used 3" metal ducting and sealed everything with ducting mastic. One duct goes into the basement to heat the tanks, controlled by a 3" alum. blast gate (dust collector valve) and another duct with no valve goes into the trailer.

[jtbuilds]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

$745 for a 6,500 BTU externally vented LP heater with a fan. Hmmm....sounds like what your RV already has built in and ducted through the floor, but I bet the built-in furnace has much more BTU capacity. Like I said, add an additional battery and your LP furnace will easily handle the trailer. You'll breathe easier (and safer) and no having to pipe an LP fitting to the inside, fire or scorching danger, etc. While the above LP 'heater' might use less LP, it also produces much less heat, so has to run more.

More research was needed before commenting.

[60sumtin]

Originally Posted by Swauk

My point being is to go for a season and see what you really "need". It could save you tons of money to do other things.

Good idea. This time around that's the approach we took as well and its worked for us.

Oh and welcome to iRV2. Glad to have you onboard.

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by jtbuilds

More research was needed before commenting.

Oh do please educate me where I was wrong!