Community Forums

rpeders · 09-15-2019, 10:23 AM

Ah thanks-never played with suspension before. That would explain the symptom on an almost brand new trailer. Build quality control just doesn't seem to exist anymore

Cumminsfan · 09-15-2019, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rpeders

Ah thanks-never played with suspension before. That would explain the symptom on an almost brand new trailer. Build quality control just doesn't seem to exist anymore

Agree whole hardheartedly. I'm getting ready to grease my ORV wet bolts this week. Guess I'll find out the good or the bad as well.

MorRyde and Dexter recommend that the cross hole in the wet bolts be orientated on the horizontal axis (9 and 3 o'clock positions) when installed.

By doing that there shouldn't be any pressure on the hole.

Highway 4x4 · 09-15-2019, 11:26 AM

I am going to install we bolts but I'll chamfer the grease hole a little.

Highway 4x4 · 10-16-2019, 09:37 PM

Started the wet bolts and CRE3000 today. Getting the beast off the ground is a challenge. I'll finish it tomorrow along with a bearing service and brake inspection&adj.

Highway 4x4 · 10-16-2019, 11:14 PM

And while I am at it I'll be cleaning, inspecting and re packing the wheel bearings. Total BS that Dexter, Lippert or whoever they are can't build axles and bearings that could go a few years without that. No auto bearings require that and whoever herd of Honda wheel bearings going out. This is just Dexter covering their warranty butt. If they really need all that then they are not built very well.

Tuquala · 10-16-2019, 11:32 PM

Steve, nowadays, most automotive and light truck wheel brngs are one piece sealed assy pressed into the hub, Honda also. Not many anymore are an outer and inner tapered brngs. And yes, they didn't need service "constantly". But they do fail eventually, and labor can be more extensive than the tapered style. On some front wheel drive vehicles you can only buy a hub and brng assy. AND, if you wanted to, you can change out your hubs and spindles ($$$$$$$$) for the sealed unit style on trailers and fifths. But have heard that they don't like the extreme side to side forces of a turning trailer. But they are maintenance "free"!!!!!!

Personally, I have done brngs and seals once, after aboot 3-1/2 yrs, on our 280RKS, but probably will not pull a drum off again for that long or longer unless there is indication that service is necc. If no apparent leakage, bad brake or bearing sounds, excess tire wear, or such, I'll leave till needed. If that causes a road repair, well that's karma!!!!

I do check brng adjustment feel when wheels off ground, when greasing the shackles in spring, but no drum removal.

brulaz · 10-17-2019, 05:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuquala

...

if you wanted to, you can change out your hubs and spindles ($$$$$$$$) for the sealed unit style on trailers and fifths. But have heard that they don't like the extreme side to side forces of a turning trailer. But they are maintenance "free"!!!!!!

Personally, I have done brngs and seals once, after aboot 3-1/2 yrs, on our 280RKS, but probably will not pull a drum off again for that long or longer unless there is indication that service is necc.
...

Hmmm, interesting stuff about sealed bearings for trailers. Have often wondered about that, especially when my hands are coated with grease.

Have been greasing bearings and replacing seals about every 24K km or 2 years or after lots of dirt roads (like after our trip up North on the Dempster). And every time the grease has been severely discolored. Rust/water/dirt? Anyway, it never looks good.

And to Hwy4x4, make sure all your brake wiring is in good shape while you're under there. I was having problems and finally ended up replacing much of the wiring (there were too many pieces of wire spliced together), and replaced the brakes with new self-adjusting ones, and soldered every last electrical splice right up to the truck. That fixed it.

Tuquala · 10-17-2019, 11:13 AM

Went back into my fragmented memory and rechecked info on cartridge bearings and hubs. Looks like Dexter did make 2 drum and hub assys, 3500# & 4500# using their "Never Lube" bearings. These were sealed, tapered brng cartridges, and it looks like the assys and major components have been discontinued!! Brngs are still avail, aboot $140 per wheel!!!! High cost, cheap manufacturers, ????? Haven't looked but wonder if any other axle mfgs still do, if there are any other axles mfgs!!!!

Highway 4x4 · 10-17-2019, 11:46 AM

I had their 3500 on a Sunnybrook. Stay away from them, junk. Had one fail on the highway and it was a mess.

On innetial inspection I have a bad, Bad bearing and race, right front outer. All the others look good on that side. It's only been 4 years ago I did everything. The inside of the drums have some wear from the electric brake magnet. The shoes and all the hardware will clean up ok.

Just wondering how much wear is OK and the hub with the bad bearing outside, Do I also replace the inner bearing and race that looks good.

Or do I just replace everything.
Or do I just replace the one bearing and trade in the trailer,,,LOL
Keep in mind, theis is a So Cal trailer that never sees much rain and never snow.

What was going to be a simple CRE3000 install has turned into a monster.

Brad Wilf · 10-17-2019, 12:15 PM

[QUOTE=Highway 4x4;5000591]I had their 3500 on a Sunnybrook. Stay away from them, junk. Had one fail on the highway and it was a mess.

On innetial inspection I have a bad, Bad bearing and race, right front outer. All the others look good on that side. It's only been 4 years ago I did everything. The inside of the drums have some wear from the electric brake magnet. The shoes and all the hardware will clean up ok.

Just wondering how much wear is OK and the hub with the bad bearing outside, Do I also replace the inner bearing and race that looks good.

Or do I just replace everything.
Or do I just replace the one bearing and trade in the trailer,,,LOL
Keep in mind, theis is a So Cal trailer that never sees much rain and never snow.

If it were me, I'd replace both. As long as the bad race hasn't been spinning around in the hub too "elongate" the hub and the new race fits nice and tight, your good.

If there's pretty good grooves in the drum braking surfaces including the mag side (1mm), local brake or auto shop can machine, done many many over the years.

Highway 4x4 · 10-17-2019, 02:27 PM

No groves in the shoe contact area of the drum, just magnet area. Magnets still have plenty of wear left in them. Cheap Chinese crap bearings.

Inspect, clean, repack and replace the bad ones. Clean the brakes and hardware.

Call it good and in a few years it will be gone.

Brad Wilf · 10-17-2019, 02:38 PM

Highway 4x4 · 10-17-2019, 06:19 PM

OK one outer bearing and race bad. Replace the one bad one and pack the crap out of the rest. New seals. Spray everything with brake cleaner spottless.

The factory suspension had some wear. Shackle bolt holes egg shaped some. Plastic bushings worn but not super bad. Glad I caught that bad bearing. I figure I save some real $$$ doing it myself and now I know it's all good.

Anyone buying a new ORV unit I would really suggest you get the off road 4x4 package.

brulaz · 10-18-2019, 06:05 AM

Good you caught it. Replacing the outer race was no problem? Never done one myself.

I was able to get a whole new drum with bearings, races, seals and all filled with grease for a reasonable price. Might be easier, especially if the inner bearing&race is bad as well, or you're on the road.