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Old 04-25-2019, 05:10 PM   #1
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CRE3000 & Wet bolt Install

Well today was the day. Pulled the Timber Ridge out of storage this morning and installed new equalizers and shackles and suspension bolts with wet bolts. Turned out to be easier than I thought. Thanks to all who provided info. Looking forward to trying it out soon.
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Old 04-25-2019, 05:15 PM   #2
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Great news John, how long did it take? I have the Dexter kit I will be installing as soon as I retrieve our TT from storage.
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Old 04-25-2019, 05:39 PM   #3
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I started about 8:30 this morning. Took about a 1/2 hour break at 10 or so. Stopped for lunch at 12. Was finished and everything put away by 3. Didnít really rush it. Had to watch the passenger side because the propane line runs there and need to shim for the jack stands not to hit it.
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Old 04-25-2019, 05:43 PM   #4
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The other thing I learned was not to let the spring ends come all the way out of the bracket on the frame. Just dropped them enough to punch out the plastic bushings and put in the brass ones. Makes putting them back in much easier. Did mine just in time. Most bushings were wore through and some bolts showed wear as well. The Alaska trip definitely provided some wear
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Old 04-25-2019, 07:17 PM   #5
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Thanks John, sounds like it should be pretty straight forward. I think I will do one side at a time rather than lifting the entire trailer onto jack stands, may take a little longer but I retire at the end of May and have nothing but time.
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Old 04-25-2019, 07:20 PM   #6
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I did one side at a time as well. I was concerned about supporting the entire trailer.
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Old 04-26-2019, 09:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
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The other thing I learned was not to let the spring ends come all the way out of the bracket on the frame. Just dropped them enough to punch out the plastic bushings and put in the brass ones. Makes putting them back in much easier. Did mine just in time. Most bushings were wore through and some bolts showed wear as well. The Alaska trip definitely provided some wear
What did you use to punch out the old bushings? A couple of my bronze bushings (and grease bolts and HD shackles) need to be replaced after our trip up North last summer. And I may try doing it myself this summer.

Was also thinking of going with the HD modified polyamide plastic bushings instead: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lea...85.htmlhttp://, as the bronze seem to wear just as fast on dirt roads. Unless, I suppose, you grease them every few hundred miles to clear out the dirt, which didn't happen. They were greased just before and just after the trip North.
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:32 AM   #8
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Tried a punch, a large screw driver but what worked best and fastest was a socket on the end of a cheap extension and drive them out with a hammer. Just went through socket sizes until found one that just fit. Worked really well. Some of my plastic bushings were badly worn and some bolts were worn as well. Made a note to check the torque on the nuts periodically because some were not very tight.
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:36 AM   #9
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Tried a punch, a large screw driver but what worked best and fastest was a socket on the end of a cheap extension and drive them out with a hammer. Just went through socket sizes until found one that just fit. Worked really well.

...

Ah, great idea.
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:37 AM   #10
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The bolts only had one grease hole in them and Moryde recommended positioning them anywhere except 6 oíclock to allow grease to flow. When under load the bushing can seal off the grease hole. Iím thinking Iíll grease mine with the wheels off the ground to take the pressure off and get better distribution. The only dirt we drove was through the construction zones and the Top of the World Highway so Iím hoping these last longer than the plastic ones. If you go to the new plastic ones it will be interesting to see how they stand up.
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:52 AM   #11
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When we got back from the North, only one of my grease bolts would take grease, even with the wheels off the ground and the axle supported by my floor jack. Pulled all the bolts to clean the gunk out of the bushings and had to drill out the side holes in the grease bolts to get the grease to flow. They were packed tight with cement-like gunk.

Never had such a problem like that with the grease bolts before. But then it was mostly paved highway cruising before.

Must be the type of dust/mud they have up there on the Dempster and thereabouts. It's like cement and getting it off the truck&trailer and hitch required a close, high pressure wash. Was afraid I was going to peel paint.
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Old 04-26-2019, 06:25 PM   #12
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I hope that I donít have the same problems but several people I spoke to mentioned difficulty getting the mud off the there vehicles. Now Iím starting to think that was what caused my hitch issue after we washed the truck and trailer at Tok. My Andersen hitch started causing trouble shortly after and had been working fine up to then.
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Old 09-14-2019, 09:58 AM   #13
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I've also found multiple grease points that won't except grease already and that was only after 2 short trips from new. That tells me the CRE3000 is poorly designed or there are manufacturer defects. So much for that 'off road suspension' upgrade package.
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:36 AM   #14
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I've also found multiple grease points that won't except grease already and that was only after 2 short trips from new. That tells me the CRE3000 is poorly designed or there are manufacturer defects. So much for that 'off road suspension' upgrade package.
The MR 3000 is the equalizer not the Off Road Suspension System and doesn't have grease points it's self. The grease points are from the wet bolts. The wet bolts have to be installed in a certain way as to allow grease to enter. They have to be positioned correctly so that grease will flow in when the trailer is sitting still. The hole in the wet bolt should be positioned so that when the trailer sits still that there's no pressure on the hole.
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