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Old 10-09-2017, 11:12 PM   #29
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Did not have abnormal tire wear. I think it tracks better now.
As for idaho winter, already on way to yuma��
Us too but to Southern California.
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:24 PM   #30
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Us too but to Southern California.
Our "Go South Feathers (GSF)" don't mature until early January.

Safe travels to all!

Mr. W
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:19 PM   #31
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The Timber Ridge I'm picking up next week the dealer orders all their ORV units with the X4. A few months back I didn't pay too much attention to that option. Figure I didn't plan on doing much crazy off-road stuff. But now I see the benefit of that option...I do keep a small grease gun in my present RV. I'll grease every 4- 5k miles. In our Alaska trip last summer I did buy 2 extra shackle bolts (dry bolts) just in case.

Question? Do wet bolts fail too? The ones put on the X4 / Mor-ryde3000 suspension found on the Timber Ridge line (2018's). Especially if I'm planning another Alaska trip in 19'.
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:17 AM   #32
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...
Question? Do wet bolts fail too? The ones put on the X4 / Mor-ryde3000 suspension found on the Timber Ridge line (2018's). Especially if I'm planning another Alaska trip in 19'.
So far mine are still there.
But they can stop accepting grease.
I've got one like that.
Have tried greasing it with the trailer jacked up and with the trailer un-jacked and it just refuses any grease. One of these days I'prolly have to replace it and the bushing.
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:41 AM   #33
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So far mine are still there.
But they can stop accepting grease.
I've got one like that.
Have tried greasing it with the trailer jacked up and with the trailer un-jacked and it just refuses any grease. One of these days I'prolly have to replace it and the bushing.
Interesting! Something to watch out for.... Thanks.
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:53 AM   #34
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So far mine are still there.
But they can stop accepting grease.
I've got one like that.
Have tried greasing it with the trailer jacked up and with the trailer un-jacked and it just refuses any grease. One of these days I'prolly have to replace it and the bushing.
Any idea how the holes in the bolt are oriented? Their instructions say to make sure they're horizontal since I believe that can cause it to bind up enough it won't take any grease.
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Old 10-11-2017, 10:08 AM   #35
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I am thinking of the Never Fail bushing for mine. No grease needed. "Never" is longer than I'll keep it.
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Old 10-11-2017, 10:15 AM   #36
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So far mine are still there.
But they can stop accepting grease.
I've got one like that.
Have tried greasing it with the trailer jacked up and with the trailer un-jacked and it just refuses any grease. One of these days I'prolly have to replace it and the bushing.
Might be cheaper to just live with it and replace it when it dies but if you have a lot of grease zerks like we do here on the farm you might try getting a grease zerk rejuvenater like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Alemite-33984...e+zerk+cleaner

We use ours frequently as we get dirt and crud stuck inside bearings and grease holes and it really works.
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Old 10-11-2017, 02:52 PM   #37
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So the death of non-grease able shackle bolts is caused dry-ness? No lube?
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Old 10-11-2017, 03:08 PM   #38
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So the death of non-grease able shackle bolts is caused dry-ness? No lube?
Or just cheap plastic.

Like Highway 4x4 says there are alternative no-lube bushings apparently made of some better plastic.

I went with the grease bolts and bushings primarily because the kit came with extra thick shackles as well.

If a kit with Never-Lube bushings, thicker shackles and longer bolts had been available I might have got them instead.

R.B. - No, I don't know the grease hole orientation as I didn't install the grease bolts myself. But you would think that no matter the position, either jacking up the trailer, or not, would relieve the pressure, allowing the grease to flow. That works for all the other fittings. I think the bad one is just plugged up somehow, although I do carefully clean the zerks before greasing, and checked each grease bolt before installation.

Off Road - That rejuvenator might be just what I need.
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:08 PM   #39
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I added these to my brand new, spanky clean zerks. I have about 30 of these left that I would be happy to mail to anybody. I only needed 12.

The instructions that came with my kit said nothing about orientation of the bolt holes.

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Old 10-11-2017, 10:16 PM   #40
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The instructions that came with my kit said nothing about orientation of the bolt holes.
I don't think mine even came with instructions. I read this online a couple days ago though:

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The grease zerk
may be installed to the inside or to the outside, this is done at customer preference. Note the grease exit hole location on the bolt, this should face sideways to allow for ease of grease ow.
From: http://www.morryde.com/uploads/downl...0for%20LRE.pdf
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Old 10-11-2017, 10:54 PM   #41
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That rejuvenator might be just what I need.
It seems to me that a fistfull of new zerk fittings would be a whole lot cheaper than $60.

You could even buy a wrench to change them, too, and have new, not "rejuvenated".

I would think that the Alamite tool forces dirt (which has caused the zerk to not work) into the lubricated assembly. Jus' sayin'......

Bob's suggestion for the plastic caps will go a long way toward never needing a new zerk at all. My truck uses one on every greaseable fitting. So far, that's only tie-rod ends, but someday U-joints and ball joints, too.

BTW, Bob, keep a few spares before sending the remaining off somewhere. They're good, but not perfect.

Pop
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Old 10-12-2017, 01:09 AM   #42
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It seems to me that a fistfull of new zerk fittings would be a whole lot cheaper than $60.

You could even buy a wrench to change them, too, and have new, not "rejuvenated".

I would think that the Alamite tool forces dirt (which has caused the zerk to not work) into the lubricated assembly. Jus' sayin'......

Bob's suggestion for the plastic caps will go a long way toward never needing a new zerk at all. My truck uses one on every greaseable fitting. So far, that's only tie-rod ends, but someday U-joints and ball joints, too.

BTW, Bob, keep a few spares before sending the remaining off somewhere. They're good, but not perfect.

Pop
It is easy to remove a zerk and pump some grease through it to make sure it works but often the issue is beyond the zerk and in the passage that the grease travels through. I have used the Alamite tool many times and it has saved me from complete disassembly of a bearing. We literally have hundreds of zerks on our equipment in the worst environments possible. It does work.
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