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Old 12-29-2017, 10:44 AM   #29
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Someone in a previous post said the 19.5 nuts should be torqued to 140-150 ft lbs. I think mine are 140, but as mentioned, it would be best to check the owners manual before changing anything.

Due to a somewhat faulty memory, I always check my manuals before doing much of anything anymore.

Best of luck.

Steve
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Old 12-29-2017, 11:34 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edge68474 View Post
Would you care to share that story with us who have not heard it, Mr. Lac.

Just a minor fauxpas on my part. I had a flat tire on my trailer...not sure if it was an inside or outside tire...I guess it depends on where your standing.
Was ready to change out the flat tire..however someone forgot to bring the correct size socket, star wrench, etc. etc.
This happened on highway 204 Tollgate 1/2 way between Elgin Oregon and Weston...during a beautiful rainy summer day.
Happy ending...a truck logger operator came to our rescue and put a plug in the puncture and we were on r way. Many thanks.

Remember don’t leave home home with out one.
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Old 12-29-2017, 12:41 PM   #31
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Changing a tire on an ORV trailer is quite different than a MH. The largest rim used is 16 inch. No impact needed on the nuts. But you do need the correct size socket.
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Old 12-29-2017, 10:33 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dix39 View Post
Someone in a previous post said the 19.5 nuts should be torqued to 140-150 ft lbs. I think mine are 140, but as mentioned, it would be best to check the owners manual before changing anything.

Due to a somewhat faulty memory, I always check my manuals before doing much of anything anymore.

Best of luck.

Steve
I guess my memory is somewhat faulty as well. I must have checked the manual at some time or another. I just did again and it still says for the W series the torque shall be 475 ft lbs. No mention of the rim size just the various models. All 475.

Stan
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Old 12-29-2017, 11:03 PM   #33
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This is all great info but OutdoorsRV does not make motorhomes.
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Old 12-30-2017, 12:06 AM   #34
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I carry a 1/2" drive deep socket, 1/2" extension and a breaker bar. I have a socket that fits the truck and one that fits the trailer.

Both truck and trailer require 90-100ft-lbs and I have used my torque wrench at home to feel what that is like and just take the breaker bar with me when traveling. If I give it a good push with my body weight that is just about perfect.
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Old 12-30-2017, 11:04 AM   #35
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I was ready to run out and buy an impact wrench, heavy duty torque multiplier, and some one inch sockets just so I could get 450 foot pounds of torque on my ORV trailer wheels, then something clicked in the far recesses of my decaying mind. Didn’t I read somewhere that my trailer wheels only have to be torqued to 120 foot pounds max? Oh yes I did, I saw it in my owners paperwork that came with my TRAILER! Then I went back and saw that many posters don’t have trailers, they don’t have ORV trailers, they have motorhomes that have much bigger tires and wheels, that require much more torque. So in light of that helpful information here is what I do and use. I pull the rig into my shop, grab my 3/4” air impact wrench, 20,000 jack and remove the tire. This is for the outside dual, if it is an inside dual that is a different story since it is filled with liquid calcium. On an inside dual I call a mobile tire repair professional. Of course this is what I do for my John Deere 7930 tractor. For my ORV trailer I just use a socket, a four inch extension and a breaker bar. I keep a cheap Harbor Freight torque wrench in the trailer to put the spare tire back on.
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:49 PM   #36
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^^^BINGO. We here on the OutdoorsRV forum don't have the same issues with tire change that a class A DP has. The question was about a trailer.
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Old 12-30-2017, 10:03 PM   #37
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What some of us have had another size nut on the spare tire. Some thing to check
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Old 01-02-2018, 04:49 PM   #38
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Doing a little research, I found this about F53 wheel torque.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...l/2001/310.pdf

Are all F53 chassis's 19.5 wheels?
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