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07-26-2018, 11:31 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azimuth551
I wanted to thank you all for your information here...some great ideas and wealth of knowledge here. I think I have made my decision and will go with the Magnum 1000W Inverter/Charger with the four six volt battery bank. I don't need to run a hair dryer or AC with my batteries and it will be better than my current 400W unit on my soon to be sold trailer. I will be back asking stupid questions on routing cables, switches, and such.
Thanks again.....Brent
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That seems like a reasonable choice. Even with a higher output inverter, running AC isn't practical due to limited battery capacity.
Other than that, the only reasons to consider higher inverter wattage might be to run things in parallel or if you occasionally wanted to use something like a toaster, microwave, electric coffee pot, etc...
For example, our microwave draws about 130A DC, so ~1500W.
In any case, keeping the DC wiring to the batteries as short as practical will help. We used 4/0 copper for a 2000 watt inverter, so you may be able to use 2/0 wire possibly.
__________________
2018 Timber Ridge 24RLS
2007 Tundra 4x4 Double Cab 5.7L
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07-27-2018, 10:52 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 101
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Oregon Joe,
That is exactly what I wanted to be able to run.....especially the coffee maker. Maybe I do need to bite the bullet and pick up the 2000W unit. That way i could run anything I would like to within reason, especially with that large battery bank. I'm away from home now, so I can't see the wattage of particular devices.
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08-04-2018, 05:42 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Whitefish, MT
Posts: 222
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I just finished upgrading the electrical on our new 24RKS. I put 540 watts solar (3x180 Solar Cynergy $120 each on ebay), Victron 50 amp MPPT Bluetooth charger, Victron BMV712 Bluetooth monitor, Xantrex 2000 watt inverter, and 2 Lifeline AGM 8D batteries. Seems to work great. I disconnected the converter in the WFCO. No need for that, plus you want to be sure that you don't end up doing something like battery -> inverter -> converter -> battery. DAMHIK. AGM batteries, BMV712, and inverter are installed in front storage area. 12 gauge extension cord runs under camper (inside flex conduit) over to WFCO. 30 amp auto transfer switch behind WFCO. Charge controller in cabinet above bed. The only thing that I struggled with was that the Zamp wires are reversed coming down from the roof. I also had a little problem getting the app to communicate with both the charge controller and the monitor. A phone reboot solved it. I've had the Xantrex inverter for several years and it works quite well. No issues running the microwave or the coffee maker, just don't try both at the same time or it will shut down.
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08-04-2018, 05:50 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 101
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Sounds like you put in quite the setup! Thanks for the details, I wan to check these out and see which way is best for my needs.
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08-04-2018, 06:32 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,940
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LeisurePursuits, that's a lovely system.
What do you think of the BMV712 monitor? Have been wanting one but want to replace my batteries with indoor versions (AGM or LiFePO4) first, as the BMV712 has what looks to be an exposed circuit board integral to the shunt. And my battery box on the tongue is not waterproof.
__________________
2014 Timber Ridge 240RKS, 70K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar, 215Ah GC2s@24V
2016 Ram 2500 CTD 4x4 RegCab SLT, 10-11 mpgUS tow
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08-04-2018, 07:36 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brulaz
LeisurePursuits, that's a lovely system.
What do you think of the BMV712 monitor? Have been wanting one but want to replace my batteries with indoor versions (AGM or LiFePO4) first, as the BMV712 has what looks to be an exposed circuit board integral to the shunt. And my battery box on the tongue is not waterproof.
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I really like the BMV712. I mounted mine to the frame inside the coroplast accessible through the opening to the power junction. I also moved the frame ground to there.
__________________
2017 Timber Ridge 25RDS
2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD
Spokane Valley, WA
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08-04-2018, 07:55 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.B
I really like the BMV712. I mounted mine to the frame inside the coroplast accessible through the opening to the power junction. I also moved the frame ground to there.
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Very good idea.
Many thanks.
__________________
2014 Timber Ridge 240RKS, 70K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar, 215Ah GC2s@24V
2016 Ram 2500 CTD 4x4 RegCab SLT, 10-11 mpgUS tow
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08-12-2018, 01:52 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Whitefish, MT
Posts: 222
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It turns out that the issue was that the seal inside the hub was not pressed in right. It failed and a lot of bearing grease was coating the brake assembly. All four wheels. I had a repair shop fix it now I just need to file a claim with Dexter.
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08-27-2018, 12:11 PM
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#37
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Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Iowa City, IA
Posts: 56
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Where to Buy the Century Battery Box
Where should I look to purchase that century battery box?
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08-27-2018, 12:14 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfred
Where should I look to purchase that century battery box?
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This place carries all of the various size options: https://allbatterysalesandservice.co...Batteries&cat=
__________________
2017 Timber Ridge 25RDS
2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD
Spokane Valley, WA
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