Large battery capacity in 24RKS?

[jfriedhoff]

Originally Posted by R.B

We have the 25RDS, which should be similar at the tongue to the 24RKS. Here's what it looks like with 4x 6V GC-2 batteries (before the inverter installation -- the wires are all #4/0 as of that).

This link is the inverter/solar controller installation: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f282/lets...ml#post4224470

Good looking cabling for 4 ea 6v GC2 battery bank. I noted you have two Positive leads connected assuming one's solar related and other positive lead goes to trailer converter; However, I don't see any Negative grounding leads connected to any Negative terminals of battery bank.

Was this by design or an omission? Just trying to get educated on large battery banks for ORV trailers.

Any comments appreciated!

[Grump010]

I was doing some home work on the weekend about the Progressive Dynamics 4600 series converter replacement for the WFCO units that ORV installs. I was shopping Best converter and had a PD4655V in my cart but did not follow through on the purchase as I'm just doing research at this time. About an hour later, I got a call from Randy at Best Converter he wanted to let me know that the PD4655V was an old style converter and that the new style will have a VL or L at the end of the part #. The new style is surface mount components and has a lithium ion jumper. Here is the info from the the Best Converter page:
4600 series Upgrade Kits


I'm not affiliated with Best Converter in any way, I just appreciate good customer service and wanted to make sure that anyone researching a converter upgrade has current information.


Cheers

[R.B]

Originally Posted by jfriedhoff

Good looking cabling for 4 ea 6v GC2 battery bank. I noted you have two Positive leads connected assuming one's solar related and other positive lead goes to trailer converter; However, I don't see any Negative grounding leads connected to any Negative terminals of battery bank.

Was this by design or an omission? Just trying to get educated on large battery banks for ORV trailers.

Any comments appreciated!

Neither, actually -- I just hadn't hooked it back up yet. The current wiring looks roughly the same as the photo with these changes:

• A single #4/0 wire to one positive terminal (goes to inverter and main positive bus bar)
• A single #4/0 wire to one negative terminal (goes to shunt, then grounded to frame, connected to inverter, and connected to main negative bus bar)
• Battery monitor temperature sensor to positive terminal
• Inverter temperature sensor to negative terminal
• Tongue jack to positive terminal

This is the photo now, though they're not as clean as when new.

[spogdog]

Thanks. What modifications did you have to do? Does it attach to the battery tray in someway? Also where did you get the cables used to connect the batteries? Mine aren't nearly robust.

[R.B]

Originally Posted by spogdog

Thanks. What modifications did you have to do? Does it attach to the battery tray in someway? Also where did you get the cables used to connect the batteries? Mine aren't nearly robust.

The cross piece was in the way, so I cut the weld with a grinder to remove it. The bracket is loose, and it's the box sits on top of it and is screwed into the battery tray to hold it in place. It just holds the lid down.

The short cables were made by the place I bought the batteries at (~$12 each I think). Everything else I made after buying the crimper recommended here: https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/. That's not overly cost-effective unless you're making a ton of large crimps like I needed to, though.

[jfriedhoff]

First time trying to add a photo - not easy to say the least...

Thought I'd try to display my 20FQ battery bank consisting of 4 each 6V GC2 Interstate Extreme Batteries (220ah ea) wired serial/parallel totaling 440ah bank.

I made the 2 AWG battery cables myself...more for the fun of it and to learn a new skill and to get the length I wanted rather than buying ready made cables.

Next up possible replacement of factory installed WFCO 8955 (55 amp) Converter to possible 70 Amp Converter that'll achieve at least 14.8 Volts...have to find one that can even get to 14.8v first.

[60sumtin]

Originally Posted by Grump010

I was doing some home work on the weekend about the Progressive Dynamics 4600 series converter replacement for the WFCO units that ORV installs. I was shopping Best converter and had a PD4655V in my cart but did not follow through on the purchase as I'm just doing research at this time. About an hour later, I got a call from Randy at Best Converter he wanted to let me know that the PD4655V was an old style converter and that the new style will have a VL or L at the end of the part #. The new style is surface mount components and has a lithium ion jumper. Here is the info from the the Best Converter page:
4600 series Upgrade Kits

I'm not affiliated with Best Converter in any way, I just appreciate good customer service and wanted to make sure that anyone researching a converter upgrade has current information.


Cheers

Thank for the information and link Daryl.

I wonder what this new 'surface mount technology' is? New mounting brackets, new mounting holes? They don't explain what the benefit is. Looking at PDI's web site there's no mention of an L version so maybe I'll wait until they update their web site for more information. Lithium battery compatibility is something I'll never need so at this point it appears the non-L version is good enough for me. At $350CDN including shipping from the US I think I'll just support the local dealers.

Last evenings project was installing a volt meter so we'll see what that tells me. As soon as I plugged the shore power back in the factory WFCO went to 14.40 volts and remained there until I went to bed 2 hours later. Right now its at 13.82v. I'll monitor it throughout the day and see what happens.

Thanks again.

[60sumtin]

Originally Posted by brulaz

I used a portable charger for a while too, to supplement the WFCO. It's a Canadian Tire brand. Surprised the Noco doesn't go up to about 14.5V in a "normal" mode. Regularly going to 16.5V for any length of time will boil off a lot of water.

Sorry, missed your reply. To clarify, when in normal mode the voltage is 14.5. To use repair mode you fully charge the battery, then manually select repair mode then let it do its thing, its shuts off automatically when completed. I've monitored the repair mode and no water is ever boiled off. You can see some small bubbles rising like a fizz but that's it. Noco is sold at Canadian Tire but available elsewhere too.

[brulaz]

Originally Posted by 60sumtin

Sorry, missed your reply. To clarify, when in normal mode the voltage is 14.5. To use repair mode you fully charge the battery, then manually select repair mode then let it do its thing, its shuts off automatically when completed. I've monitored the repair mode and no water is ever boiled off. You can see some small bubbles rising like a fizz but that's it. Noco is sold at Canadian Tire but available elsewhere too.

Ah well then it sounds like the Noco should work ok as a regular/daily charger.

But I see also you got your WFCO to get up to 14.4V. Do you recall the battery voltage before plugging into shorepower? I've only heard of the WFCO going that high when the batteries are severely depleted, like maybe 50% or down to 12.1V or so.

[60sumtin]

Originally Posted by brulaz

Ah well then it sounds like the Noco should work ok as a regular/daily charger.

But I see also you got your WFCO to get up to 14.4V. Do you recall the battery voltage before plugging into shorepower? I've only heard of the WFCO going that high when the batteries are severely depleted, like maybe 50% or down to 12.1V or so.

No I didn't take a measurement. Never thought of it. The batteries have never been severely depleted. Over the winter the batteries sat on the bench each connected to their own Battery Tender. When the trailer is not in use its plugged into shore power. We don't use a lot of power when dry camping. Basically only the fridge and couple LED lights before going to bed. The Noco only gets used for equalization purposes. The WFCO does the rest. I still might pull the trigger for Progressive Industries in the spring. We'll see how it goes over the remainder of this camping season.

[Grump010]

Originally Posted by 60sumtin

Thank for the information and link Daryl.

I wonder what this new 'surface mount technology' is? New mounting brackets, new mounting holes? They don't explain what the benefit is. Looking at PDI's web site there's no mention of an L version so maybe I'll wait until they update their web site for more information. Lithium battery compatibility is something I'll never need so at this point it appears the non-L version is good enough for me. At $350CDN including shipping from the US I think I'll just support the local dealers.

Last evenings project was installing a volt meter so we'll see what that tells me. As soon as I plugged the shore power back in the factory WFCO went to 14.40 volts and remained there until I went to bed 2 hours later. Right now its at 13.82v. I'll monitor it throughout the day and see what happens.

Thanks again.

Surface mount technology is the component placement on the circuit board. It means the individual components sit on the surface and are soldered to the board, no through hole placement and soldering from the bottom. Typically this will make a circuit board more robust and with a conformal coating on top of the board will make it bullet proof. A major pain in the b*m if you ever want to do repairs, especially for these old eyes. I have a large magnifying glass with LED light ring for attempting repairs to circuit boards and I really shy away from the SMT stuff. I also think the price is way to much once it arrives in Canada, just wanted the more wealthy Canucks and our Southern bretherin to be aware if they are considering a replacement in the future.

[60sumtin]

Originally Posted by Grump010

Surface mount technology is the component placement on the circuit board. It means the individual components sit on the surface and are soldered to the board, no through hole placement and soldering from the bottom. Typically this will make a circuit board more robust and with a conformal coating on top of the board will make it bullet proof. A major pain in the b*m if you ever want to do repairs, especially for these old eyes. I have a large magnifying glass with LED light ring for attempting repairs to circuit boards and I really shy away from the SMT stuff. I also think the price is way to much once it arrives in Canada, just wanted the more wealthy Canucks and our Southern bretherin to be aware if they are considering a replacement in the future.

Ah, I see. I figured it was a bit more technical than what I know, and that's not much. Good to know though. Thanks.

[Oregon Joe]

Originally Posted by R.B

We have the 25RDS, which should be similar at the tongue to the 24RKS. Here's what it looks like with 4x 6V GC-2 batteries (before the inverter installation -- the wires are all #4/0 as of that).

This link is the inverter/solar controller installation: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f282/lets...ml#post4224470

Azimuth551,

I used the same battery box as shown here and what brulaz mentions. It works well.

ORV sells a tray as an option that this Century Plastics box fits well into. It would be worth checking with the dealer or factory on this since you have not received the trailer yet. It appears that the tray just bolts in on top to the normal battery rails that hold 2 batteries.

Several people have posted on here showing great ideas and mods adding an inverter, upgraded charger, wiring, etc..

There are some pictures of the Magnum MS 2000 charger/inverter I used here. We are very happy with this setup so far.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f282/lets...247025-60.html

Take your time and decide what you want to do as there are many options and some trade-offs.

[Azimuth551]

I wanted to thank you all for your information here...some great ideas and wealth of knowledge here. I think I have made my decision and will go with the Magnum 1000W Inverter/Charger with the four six volt battery bank. I don't need to run a hair dryer or AC with my batteries and it will be better than my current 400W unit on my soon to be sold trailer. I will be back asking stupid questions on routing cables, switches, and such.
Thanks again.....Brent