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Old 07-20-2018, 05:25 AM   #1
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Large battery capacity in 24RKS?

Hello,

I'm new to this club as we are in the process of closing on our new Timber Ridge Titanium 24RKS...pick it up in a few weeks--can't wait! Been thinking about some of the mods that I would like to do to make it ready for off the grid outings.

Has anyone with this trailer installed (4) six volt batteries behind the tanks? I'm wondering if there is enough room.

I plan in installing the solar system with at least two panels and an inverter of at least 1000W, possibly 2000W. For those of you that have this kind of set up, can would you mind elaborating a bit on what equipment you went with and how it is installed? Is it worth getting an Inverter/Charger and bypassing the OEM charger? I would like to be able to run various electrical outlets without running extension cords.

Thanks in advance.......
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:01 AM   #2
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Ours is a 2014 model 240RKS, a little different interior but very similar otherwise.

Four 6V golf cart batteries fit fine between the frame rails up front. We use a Century Plastic battery box. I believe ORV now has a frame support option specifically for this size box.

We started with 1000W inverter and then upgraded to a 2000W version so the microwave could be used. It is mounted on the ceiling of the pass thru, driver's side.

DC electrical cables go directly to the batteries thru holes drilled in the front cap. As short and direct a route as I could make. AC wire is a heavy extension cord thru plastic pipe down and under the floor and then up to the mid-trailer electrical cabinet to a auto-transfer switch. The inverter's remote on-off wire also followed this route and is mounted on the side of the cabinet.

By default the transfer switch connects the inverter to the trailer's AC circuits, but when AC appears on the shorepower side, it switches to that.

I would not rely on the WFCO converter for battery charging. An inverter/charger or a separate charger is a good idea.
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:06 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by brulaz View Post

I would not rely on the WFCO converter for battery charging. An inverter/charger or a separate charger is a good idea.
Other than the WFCO not having an equalization mode is there any other reason to change them out? I've toyed around with the idea of changing out our converter/charger for a PD4600 Series but they are pricy.
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:49 AM   #4
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Brulaz,

Wow....thanks for the info and I might have to hit you up when I get ready for actually doing this modification for details. I'm thinking your right about going with the bigger inverter especially given that I will have over the top battery capacity. I have also read that the combined inverter/chargers are the way to go as far as maintaining your upgraded batteries.
I was looking at maybe installing the AIMS Pure Sine Inverter....they make a more reasonable priced one that is rated at 2500W. Any suggestions on particular inverters to purchase or stay away from?

Thanks, Brent
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Old 07-20-2018, 10:09 AM   #5
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Other than the WFCO not having an equalization mode is there any other reason to change them out? I've toyed around with the idea of changing out our converter/charger for a PD4600 Series but they are pricy.
Most 12V deep cycle lead acid batteries (a pair of GC2s in series) are not fully charged until the charger gets them 14.8V and holds them there until the charging current drops to 1-3% of the bank's Ah capacity. Say 2 amps for most GC2 pairs in series. (Or for roughly 2-4 hours as most chargers don't measure amps into the batteries)

The WFCO will very rarely charge at anything over 13.6V, and so your batts are always under-charged and will sulfate as a result. Sulfation reduces battery lifetime.

You can try to de-sulfate with an equalization charge and should do that frequently if you are only partially charging with the WFCO. But it's preferable to regularly charge to a higher voltage.


When we first started I had a separate, portable battery charger that I carried around and used whenever we had shorepower. It wasn't as good as my current solar chargers or the Prog Dyn chargers but it did go up to over 14V which was better than the WFCO. Then I got a stand-alone Prog Dyn and installed it in the pass-thru. And nowadays my system has become even more complicated ...
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Old 07-20-2018, 10:19 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Azimuth551 View Post
...

I have also read that the combined inverter/chargers are the way to go as far as maintaining your upgraded batteries.
I was looking at maybe installing the AIMS Pure Sine Inverter....they make a more reasonable priced one that is rated at 2500W. Any suggestions on particular inverters to purchase or stay away from?

Thanks, Brent

I prefer to mix and match components but that's just me. There's some nice combo units out there.
PSW is the way to go for "whole house" inversion. That way, you don't have to worry about what you are plugging in and where.
AIMS didn't used to be very good. But maybe they've upped their game by now. I got a good deal on a KISAE so went with them. If you want to spend the $$ on quality, Victron, Magnum, Outback come to mind. There are others I'm sure.
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Old 07-20-2018, 10:23 AM   #7
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Brulaz,
What transfer switch are you using and are you happy with it's performance?
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:01 AM   #8
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We have the 25RDS, which should be similar at the tongue to the 24RKS. Here's what it looks like with 4x 6V GC-2 batteries (before the inverter installation -- the wires are all #4/0 as of that).

This link is the inverter/solar controller installation: Let's see your Outdoors RV Mods
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:17 AM   #9
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Brulaz,
What transfer switch are you using and are you happy with it's performance?

I wouldn't recommend mine. It's just a 120VAC relay and buzzes a bit. The better ones use a DC relay and time delay circuitry. Go-Power, Prog Dynamics and others make them.
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:18 PM   #10
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Wow, thats an impressive set up you did. Way more complicated and expensive than what Im looking for.
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Old 07-21-2018, 07:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brulaz View Post
Most 12V deep cycle lead acid batteries (a pair of GC2s in series) are not fully charged until the charger gets them 14.8V and holds them there until the charging current drops to 1-3% of the bank's Ah capacity. Say 2 amps for most GC2 pairs in series. (Or for roughly 2-4 hours as most chargers don't measure amps into the batteries)

The WFCO will very rarely charge at anything over 13.6V, and so your batts are always under-charged and will sulfate as a result. Sulfation reduces battery lifetime.

You can try to de-sulfate with an equalization charge and should do that frequently if you are only partially charging with the WFCO. But it's preferable to regularly charge to a higher voltage.


When we first started I had a separate, portable battery charger that I carried around and used whenever we had shorepower. It wasn't as good as my current solar chargers or the Prog Dyn chargers but it did go up to over 14V which was better than the WFCO. Then I got a stand-alone Prog Dyn and installed it in the pass-thru. And nowadays my system has become even more complicated ...
Thanks, so it sounds like the $300 PD4635 charger upgrade would only be getting me an automated equalization mode. I have a Noco charger and have been using it's repair mode that takes the charge up to 16.5V for a period time then shuts down. While it works its not convenient but I've also saved $300 too. Decisions, decisions. These things can be a money pit.
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:28 AM   #12
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Thanks, so it sounds like the $300 PD4635 charger upgrade would only be getting me an automated equalization mode. I have a Noco charger and have been using it's repair mode that takes the charge up to 16.5V for a period time then shuts down. While it works its not convenient but I've also saved $300 too. Decisions, decisions. These things can be a money pit.
I used a portable charger for a while too, to supplement the WFCO. It's a Canadian Tire brand. Surprised the Noco doesn't go up to about 14.5V in a "normal" mode. Regularly going to 16.5V for any length of time will boil off a lot of water.

But my portable battery charger is pretty low amperage (20A max IIRC), as are most Nocos I've seen. So takes a while to get the batts fully charged. The Prog Dynamics and others are usually much higher amperage so you can recharge the batts with *much* less generator time. Think that's partly why they are so expensive.

For a pair of 6V GC2s, a prog dyn that goes to 14.8V instead of just 14.4V is the PD9245C, a 45A charger: PD 9245C-14.8 45 Amp RV Converter/Charger

And yes to the "money pit"!
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Old 07-21-2018, 12:11 PM   #13
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R.B. Where did you get the locking bars for the battery box? I have the same box on my 24RLS and want to lock the box down.
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Old 07-22-2018, 08:08 PM   #14
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R.B. Where did you get the locking bars for the battery box? I have the same box on my 24RLS and want to lock the box down.
I modified this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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