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Old 06-04-2018, 10:13 PM   #995
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Wow what a beautiful wiring job!
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Old 06-04-2018, 10:25 PM   #996
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Very nice!!
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Old 06-05-2018, 01:08 PM   #997
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Hi quality install. Very nice. Good job....
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Old 06-05-2018, 11:36 PM   #998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brulaz View Post
x2!
x3!

Very impressive!

Great use of space and organization. How did you end up routing wires to the batteries?
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Old 06-05-2018, 11:41 PM   #999
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Great use of space and organization. How did you end up routing wires to the batteries?
Directly below the inverter is the stock power junction. I moved some of that and drilled straight down. The wires run from the inverter, down through that, and then follow the where the factory battery wires were out through the coroplast. The factory negative was grounded to the frame on the exterior, but I moved that inside into the more protected void between the coroplast and floor because the existing was corroded most of the way through.
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Old 06-06-2018, 12:23 AM   #1000
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Another mod: propane level gauge.
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Old 06-06-2018, 03:07 PM   #1001
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280 RKS storage mod. There is a lot of lost storage space under the cabinet next to the fridge. We used two wire baskets left over from an old refrigerator, command strips, Velcro and a piece of cord.

Paper plates and paper towels take up a lot of space but don't weigh much so this is perfect. Even if it fell apart, chance of damage is minimal. Now we can travel with more towels and plates for longer off grid.Click image for larger version

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Old 06-06-2018, 03:16 PM   #1002
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Weboost and usb addition. This keeps all the cords out of sight. We have a Mobley and jetpack plus a USB speaker, my darling got tired of seeing the cables running up the wall to the electronics from the pre installed USB point. I tapped in too the converter and ran the wiring inside the wall. On the 280RKS it was easy to fish the wiring up the space where the black tank vent pipe runs. I will replace the duct tape cover when I find something that I like. Attachment 206038Click image for larger version

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Old 06-06-2018, 11:40 PM   #1003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.B View Post
Directly below the inverter is the stock power junction. I moved some of that and drilled straight down. The wires run from the inverter, down through that, and then follow the where the factory battery wires were out through the coroplast. The factory negative was grounded to the frame on the exterior, but I moved that inside into the more protected void between the coroplast and floor because the existing was corroded most of the way through.
Thanks!

That's a good way to get into the junction box. I ended up going from the inverter into the front cap, then down to the junction box. What you did saved some wire length though.

Also a good idea moving the factory ground. If I open up the junction box again I'll do that. While I was working under the trailer, the factory ground wire fell out of the crimp I replaced that and added shrink tubing.

Were you able to get the AC wires back going above the coroplast or take a different route?
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:50 AM   #1004
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More space on RD and RL Floorplans

Folks,

I don't know what ORV models/floorplans this mod will apply to but if you have "difficult to access" space under your galley countertop, this may work for you. It certainly did for us. Unfortunately I did not take a "before" photo.

New access door (Upper left in photo):

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Newly accessible space:

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The thing hanging down is a canister for the dishwashing detergent dispenser ("DDD", as it is often referred to ).

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Old 06-08-2018, 11:14 AM   #1005
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Frayed carpet edge solution

And while I am busy posting, maybe this will help others with a similar issue.

The carpet edge in our slide out was badly frayed. From the factory it came with a narrow, sewn on, fabric binding that was coming off. I tried resewing it but that didn't work so I found a vinyl carpet "transition" strip and glued it on. The rounded ends were tricky, the strip had to be notched to make the turns. This is the strip I used.

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Old 06-08-2018, 01:12 PM   #1006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoBob View Post
And while I am busy posting, maybe this will help others with a similar issue.

The carpet edge in our slide out was badly frayed. From the factory it came with a narrow, sewn on, fabric binding that was coming off. I tried resewing it but that didn't work so I found a vinyl carpet "transition" strip and glued it on. The rounded ends were tricky, the strip had to be notched to make the turns. This is the strip I used.

Attachment 206271

Bob
Great idea on the transition strip. My wife was just pointing out to me the other day that the edge on ours is getting a bit ratty.
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Old 06-08-2018, 05:26 PM   #1007
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Great idea on the transition strip. My wife was just pointing out to me the other day that the edge on ours is getting a bit ratty.
X2.

Bob, what glue did you use?
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Old 06-08-2018, 05:44 PM   #1008
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Thanks!

That's a good way to get into the junction box. I ended up going from the inverter into the front cap, then down to the junction box. What you did saved some wire length though.

Also a good idea moving the factory ground. If I open up the junction box again I'll do that. While I was working under the trailer, the factory ground wire fell out of the crimp I replaced that and added shrink tubing.

Were you able to get the AC wires back going above the coroplast or take a different route?
I’ve been redoing a bunch of the factory crimps too. I just don’t trust them.

On the 25RDS, the fuse panel/breaker panel/converter sits right above the edge of the Black tank. I was able to get a fish tape down through the existing hole all of the other wiring comes up through and pull what I needed through between the floor and coroplast. I would have liked to add a couple extra wires (e.g., cat 5e) but didn’t think I’d have any room to spare without making the existing hole larger.
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