Community Forums

Tuquala · 10-13-2017, 06:11 PM

Don't know about all the models, but our 280RKS (early '16) has a reinforcement block of plywood in the wall up where the support mounts. Right in the middle of the awning length!!!

You can ask ORV for a print of the sidewall framing to verify if your model has also. An awning support is (in my opine!) a must with a long awning. The tubes are way to flimsy for off road travel like we do.

R.B · 10-13-2017, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuquala

Don't know about all the models, but our 280RKS (early '16) has a reinforcement block of plywood in the wall up where the support mounts. Right in the middle of the awning length!!!

You can ask ORV for a print of the sidewall framing to verify if your model has also. An awning support is (in my opine!) a must with a long awning. The tubes are way to flimsy for off road travel like we do.

I think ours did because that matches my experience. The pilot holes had much thicker wood than the other side of the trailer when I put in something there.

Highway 4x4 · 10-14-2017, 12:23 PM

I would add a center support on my 21 foot awning but it's getting lighter as the awning material cracks and blows away. I think they started adding the wall support in the wall after they built mine anyway.

Downwindtrac · 10-16-2017, 11:27 PM

This spring, before the trip across Canada on our '13 Creekside 20FQ.

I made and installed 3 drawers, turning the closet into a pantry. On the galley side I cut large holes in the side so my wife could see what's inside. By adding a shelf and door above the drawers I turned a useless area into a slightly more useful one.

I replaced the plastic medicine cabinet wit a wooden one. The mirror door had fallen off.

On the drivers side bedside cabinet I added a door. I needed it too when the water pump died on the trip.

Again on the trip I changed out the Mark #1 on-demand hot water heater with a Mark # 2. It actually works!! unlike the Mark #1

crosscheck · 10-17-2017, 11:53 AM

Just finished hooking up rear grey water discharge pipe(1 1/2") to the main front grey/black discharge pipe(3"). Thanks to Tuquala for info and photos from an earlier mod especially the idea of rubber connectors under slide access cover. Took a coupla hours and minimal cost.

I never had to move trailer to dump rear tank after the front tanks because the discharge hose could reach both pipes if you could position the dual wheels directly next to the sewer intake pipe but this just cuts out another step plus I can pull the back tank handle along with the black so it speeds up the dumping process.

Question is, why doesn't ORV plumb these 3 tanks(on a rear kitchen model) to discharge out of the same pipe at the factory like you would at a normal house which has 1 1/2" going into 3" which eventually goes into the one 4" sewer pipe?

Dave

bucknaz · 10-18-2017, 01:03 PM

Ill take a guess at why they do not connect them and say it is to meet some requirement or standard. it might be something like the drain pipes need to be at a 4% slope or some such. with the axels in the way the pipe has to go over or under and it would not pass inspection.

by the way to much or to little slope on a sewer pipe can cause the "stuff" to not flow and get stuck in the pipe. Since it is grey water it probably won't be an issue but I would flush it occasionally with clean water just in case

Papa_Jim · 10-18-2017, 06:04 PM

I really like this mod. I've been thinking about doing it for quite a while. When we're parked, hooked up to sewer, it sure is a nuisance to switch the hose to drain the kitchen grey water. I'll check back to your post when I'm getting ready to do this. Thanks.

Jim

Araxis33 · 10-19-2017, 07:30 AM

I did this same mod a couple months ago and am glad I did. I found I couldn't achieve a constant slope from back to front, so I put a clear extension with a clear cap that has the garden hose attachment on. When I get home I find maybe 2-3 cups of water that didn't drain against the cap. I just unscrew the cap where the garden hose would go and let that last little bit drain and re-cap.

Tuquala · 10-19-2017, 11:33 AM

Why they aren't connected is anybody's guess!! Cost, sewer police, lurkers??

Like Araxis33, ours doesn't drain the long line 100%, but since it's sink water, no big deal!! 1-2 cups (haven't officially measured!!) in the clear cap elbow when home. I have backflushed the line once or twice to clean. Another bonus, other than only one hookup, is the ability to cross connect the 2 gray tanks to double the shower capacity!! Yes, have done that a couple of times since the wife needs her almost daily shower when we are in the woods for a couple of weeks and even the 40 gals in the front tank isn't enough occasionally!!!

Highway 4x4 · 10-19-2017, 02:25 PM

Tuquala, don't you have an outside shower? Plenty of room and the tank never fills.

Tuquala · 10-20-2017, 05:27 PM

Highway, I'll be using it at the 2018 gathering, near your campsite!!!! Enjoy!!!

rosieox · 10-20-2017, 10:33 PM

Wes,
We love what you did with your pantry adding slide out drawers. I know it was 2 years ago, but do you remember where you purchased your slide out drawers?
Thanks,
Craig & Karen

Downwindtrac · 10-23-2017, 01:03 PM

I'm not Wes, but I think I picked up ball bearing slides at either Princess Auto or Lee Valley. Lee Valley ones are deluxe and Princess Auto one are cheaper. full extension 100#s

Be aware that your closet might not be square, ours' wasn't. The slides are attached to a 1xsomething. Screwed at either end into something solid. I think it would have been a Kreg pocket screwed at the front and a straight at the back into a divider framing 1x. I had to hand plane the support pieces into a taper as it was narrower at the back.

The drawers have barrel bolts for travelling. I left the door on.

The drawers were made of 10mm Baltic Birch plywood, finger jointed ,I doubled the front by just gluing it, to hide the slides and give a place for the barrel bolts to attach. Slides are 1/2" thick.

R.B · 11-05-2017, 04:05 PM

This is by far the easiest modification I've done -- everything used the same hole sizes, and the existing wiring harness fit the replacement.

I swapped out the stock Furrion DV3200 for a Fusion MS-AV755 and the Jensen MS5006B speakers for Polk DB522 ones. Both of the stock parts are less than mediocre with the Furrion frequently failing to respond to button presses and the Jensen speakers barely touching the bass frequencies. The Fusion is leaps ahead, and the Polk speakers are just all-around better.

The Furrion's wiring harness at cutout match exactly to what the Fusion needed. All I needed to do was unplug everything from the old unit and plug it into the same receptacles on the new one. The only negative in the whole thing is I have a couple screw holes to fix since the Furrion was mounted on its lower DIN without the cutout and the Fusion could only cover the top holes.

The Polk speakers were basically the same. The existing cutout and screw holes lined up with what was needed for the new speaker, so it was again just unplugging one to plug in the other.

Fusion MS-AV755: https://www.fusionentertainment.com/...nits/ms-av755/
Polk DB522: https://www.polkaudio.com/products/db522