Community Forums

Oregon Joe · 06-08-2018, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R.B

I’ve been redoing a bunch of the factory crimps too. I just don’t trust them.

On the 25RDS, the fuse panel/breaker panel/converter sits right above the edge of the Black tank. I was able to get a fish tape down through the existing hole all of the other wiring comes up through and pull what I needed through between the floor and coroplast. I would have liked to add a couple extra wires (e.g., cat 5e) but didn’t think I’d have any room to spare without making the existing hole larger.

Great pics. I think our 24RLS is very similar and I tried to do the same thing. I couldn't get the fish tape down through the existing hole and forward to the junction box.

I ended up running 2 3/4" flexible conduits underneath and would have preferred what you did. I could get a network cable through there if needed later and dis add a new wire for DC to the WFCO panel. The factory wire was only 8 AWG between the WFCO DC panel and disconnect switch. It was 6 AWG from the switch to battery.

IdahoBob · 06-09-2018, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brulaz

X2.

Bob, what glue did you use?

"Liquid Nails Fuze*It All Surface Construction Adhesive". Worked great. Color is grey, a tan/beige would have been better but I don't think that was available.

Bob

spogdog · 06-10-2018, 10:16 AM

Where did you get the thermostat? I see it costs over $100 on Amazon. How difficult was it to install?

spogdog · 06-10-2018, 10:19 AM

How big is this carpet holder? It looks like a sewer storage tube.

skid_o · 06-10-2018, 03:38 PM

New and improved spice rack. I mounted a steel ruler on the window valance above the sink. The spice containers have a magnet on the bottom. This is better then the hokey one beneath the counter by sink.

fisher99 · 06-11-2018, 03:13 PM

My wife and I have never been happy with the lighting in our Wind River. I love the look of the LED fixtures but they just don't put out the amount of light that we desire. Plus, the TT is missing lights in crucial areas, like under the kitchen cabinets and in front of the bathroom mirror. So, with a big thanks to IdahoBob for his recommendation on light fixtures, and with a few hours of reasonably simple work, we now have vastly improved lighting. After we try this for a while we may end up swapping out more of the existing ceiling light fixtures.

I replaced the 4 LED fixtures in the kitchen area with 5" round fixtures. An easy swap and provides more (and softer) light. Beneath the kitchen cabinets (not shown) and in front of the bathroom mirror I used oval/oblong fixtures. I was able to tap into existing 12v wiring in the false bottom of the kitchen cabinets, but in the bathroom I had to fish wire from the light fixture in the middle of the bathroom ceiling.

I also replaced the small incandescent bulb in the range hood with an LED "pad" with a 4x9 grid of LED's. The existing bulb wasn't much more than a very weak night light, but the new LED pad provides very useful range top lighting.

All in all, a substantial improvement in lighting for a small expense and effort.

spogdog · 06-12-2018, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Araxis33

All done!

You have the same ridges in your skirt that I do. I assume the plate flattens out when you tighten the screws. Does it cause any wrinkles that you needed to worry about. I like the idea as the handles are pretty far in and are a pain to bend over and look for even though I am using the gorilla tape trick for now.

Papa_Jim · 06-12-2018, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Araxis33

All done!

I want to do this!

Part #s, where to order.

Please!

Jim

Araxis33 · 06-13-2018, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papa_Jim

I want to do this!

Part #s, where to order.

Please!

Jim

Here you go....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011J...o_pop_mb_pd_t2

Araxis33 · 06-13-2018, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spogdog

You have the same ridges in your skirt that I do. I assume the plate flattens out when you tighten the screws. Does it cause any wrinkles that you needed to worry about. I like the idea as the handles are pretty far in and are a pain to bend over and look for even though I am using the gorilla tape trick for now.

It flattens out a little bit but it is not even noticeable. Still very pleased with this simple modification. So much easier than bending way down or having to get down on your knee to find the valve.

spogdog · 06-13-2018, 11:38 AM

Thanks for the reply. I used a template and didn't thik it would look bad but I wanted your opinion. What did you use to cut the skirt? Mine is thin metal so I'm figuring a dremel would work fine.

Araxis33 · 06-13-2018, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spogdog

Thanks for the reply. I used a template and didn't thik it would look bad but I wanted your opinion. What did you use to cut the skirt? Mine is thin metal so I'm figuring a dremel would work fine.

Yep. Dremel. Used blue painter's tape to tape off a square big enough to set the cover on and trace around the outside of the opening and then just cut that out with a dremel.

Papa_Jim · 06-13-2018, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Araxis33

Here you go....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011J...o_pop_mb_pd_t2

Thank you very much!

Jim

TyCreek · 06-24-2018, 05:08 PM

In post #813 I had an extra fat 2 piece end cap thing I printed and its been working fine... However I wasn't really happy with it so I made a much simpler one piece design.

What got me to redo my cap was that I discovered metal slag and edge curl was the reason it wouldn't fit. Once those bits were knocked out and the end edges softened, the coupler end would fit. Still it's quite snug and the OEM cap requires the coupler to be recessed so extracting with tugging little wiggles is a less than perfect experience. This cap doesn't require recessed inserting of the coupler, so with the tabs out past the end a bit, they are easy to grab for removal.