Community Forums

Brad Wilf · 02-01-2019, 07:03 PM

So I had 2 AGM 12 v sitting around the shop, I got for free a few years back. Been out for a couple 3 days trips in chilly rainy weather with furnace staying on at 60 during the day and down to 55 ish at night.. I’m surprised how well they did with out running the generator.. so I’d figure I’d try to keep em safe and throw a shut off in there too.. down the road I may up grade to some 6 v but for free...can’t complain.

Brad Wilf · 02-01-2019, 07:12 PM

Installed 300 watts windy nation with 30 amp pwm regulator. Had a 100 watt set up on my Lance work very well. So I’ figure should keep those AGM’s topped off. Can raise charge voltage up to 15v, batteries recommend 14.4 +or - .2 v. Removed the combined box all connections were good. With the charge these will be putting out, shouldn’t be too taxing on the factory wiring..

fisher99 · 02-02-2019, 10:40 AM

Brad. Nice work on all the mods. I have the exact same 12v USB/voltmeter strip awaiting installation in my TT. Probably won't get to it until I pull it out of storage in the spring though.

Brad Wilf · 02-02-2019, 05:51 PM

Thanks. USB charger seems like decent quality for the price, haven’t used it out camping yet, just playing around with it the driveway..LOL

Indiana · 02-09-2019, 10:21 AM

Nice job! Do you have problem accessing the back of the cabinet for wiring?

I have ordered similar parts for this mod. but the radio enclosure on my TR seemed like glued on. I might have to look for another location next to the monitor panel to install these receptacles. Any suggestions?

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Brad Wilf · 02-09-2019, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Indiana

Nice job! Do you have problem accessing the back of the cabinet for wiring?

I have ordered similar parts for this mod. but the radio enclosure on my TR seemed like glued on. I might have to look for another location next to the monitor panel to install these receptacles. Any suggestions? Attachment 234538 Attachment 234539

Looks like you have a different stereo. On mine, there is a couple push in tabs on the sides, cover comes off, the mounting screws for the stereo are behind the cover. A fair amount of room once the unit is out.

Indiana · 02-10-2019, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad Wilf

Looks like you have a different stereo. On mine, there is a couple push in tabs on the sides, cover comes off, the mounting screws for the stereo are behind the cover. A fair amount of room once the unit is out.

So you are installing your new receptacles through the front opening of the stereo. It looks like I will have to go that route.

I opened the back panel at the system monitor earlier today. I just took one look and had it buttoned right up. There's one big mess of wiring back there. The space besides the monitor panel which I thought I could install the new receptacles were occupied. I would have no choice but to get back to besides the stereo.

Brad Wilf · 02-10-2019, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Indiana

So you are installing your new receptacles through the front opening of the stereo. It looks like I will have to go that route.

I opened the back panel at the system monitor earlier today. I just took one look and had it buttoned right up. There's one big mess of wiring back there. The space besides the monitor panel which I thought I could install the new receptacles were occupied. I would have no choice but to get back to besides the stereo.

Yes most likely beside/above the stereo. I have a counter right above so whatever I’m charging has a place to sit. Looks like the same for you. Just the stereo wiring in behind, find your power and ground install a inline fuse, measure 5 x’s before you make your holes. For me drilling into a new trailer was a bit nervous, but the tape measure doesn’t lie. Good luck.

Indiana · 02-10-2019, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad Wilf

Yes most likely beside/above the stereo. I have a counter right above so whatever I’m charging has a place to sit. Looks like the same for you. Just the stereo wiring in behind, find your power and ground install a inline fuse, measure 5 x’s before you make your holes. For me drilling into a new trailer was a bit nervous, but the tape measure doesn’t lie. Good luck.

Yeah, most likely I would install it right below the stereo if I can reach in for wiring. Thank you for your advice on the online fuse! I haven't thought about it.

Brad Wilf · 02-10-2019, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Indiana

Yeah, most likely I would install it right below the stereo if I can reach in for wiring. Thank you for your advice on the online fuse! I haven't thought about it.

Not a problem. You will have a fuse for the stereo in the DC panel, but it’s always good to isolate the new circuit, or branch, your creating with the charging station. By your pics looks like you should have ample room once the stereo is out. FYI, I always soldier and shrink tube my connections, less voltage drop, and no connections to vibrate loose. From my solar controller to my charge station I have .10v discrepancy, acceptable especially considering it running through the converter, and I’m thinking approximately a 20 ft run of wire up and down the walls etc.

WNDOPDLR · 03-10-2019, 06:41 PM

We wanted a back splash behind the stove that would be easier to keep clean. Our cooktop is beside the fridge and on the back wall of our ORV. The side of the fridge is paneling which should be pretty easy to maintain, but the back wall is a textured surface that is used throughout the TT.

DW looked at many different options (and I made lots of trips back and forth to Lowe's) and she finally settled on black acrylic. This will be easy to wipe down and should hold up for quite a while.

The cook top cover was made out of wood from the scrap bin and simply lifts off for use of the cook top.

Not much of a photographer, but this will give you some idea.

PTricky · 03-10-2019, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WNDOPDLR

We wanted a back splash behind the stove that would be easier to keep clean. Our cooktop is beside the fridge and on the back wall of our ORV. The side of the fridge is paneling which should be pretty easy to maintain, but the back wall is a textured surface that is used throughout the TT.

DW looked at many different options (and I made lots of trips back and forth to Lowe's) and she finally settled on black acrylic. This will be easy to wipe down and should hold up for quite a while.

The cook top cover was made out of wood from the scrap bin and simply lifts off for use of the cook top.

Not much of a photographer, but this will give you some idea.

That scrap wood sure is beautiful. Nice job. My scrap wood looks like old pallet boards.

WNDOPDLR · 03-11-2019, 06:26 PM

I have seen some beautiful furniture made out of pallet wood. A lot of it is hardwood. You just need to be very careful of metal when you run it through the planer.

PLT · 04-02-2019, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R.B

Today's mod was a replacement for both door windows. Two of our complaints have been being unable to see out of them while also being unable to block out the light in the bedroom one for sleeping. This is the product and also the cheapest place I found it: AP Products Slim Shade Replacement Door Window Frame - Window Frames - Entry Door - Hardware

Replacement took about 10-15 minutes each and required a #2 phillips, some tape, windex, and paper towels.

I just picked up a 2019 23DBS (woot woot!) and am attempting to replace the window in entry door as you have done. Thanks again for putting out the idea! However, my existing window on entry door does not have exposed fasteners on the window frame. I assume the fasteners are located inside, under the plastic frame. Is it so simple as using a putty knife and gently prying the inside portion of the frame off? Thx!