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Old 08-19-2015, 07:42 PM   #1
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Light switches

Just got back from our second trip and am going to make a few changes, one of which is changing the light switches in the slide outs to dimmers. There was a thread on this subject several months ago, but nothing was mentioned on removing the face plate on the existing switches. Before I go off and start prying and possibly causing some damage, has anyone taken these off before?

Rick
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Old 08-19-2015, 09:51 PM   #2
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The light switches come apart very easily. If you look at the bottom side of the switch surround there is a hole/notch for a small flat blade screw driver. I can usually snap them off without any tools. Then under the switch surround you will find two square drive screws, removing those screws will allow you to remove the switch to get access to the wiring.
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Old 08-20-2015, 06:01 AM   #3
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Perfect timing!
Got a couple of those cheap LED dimmers with remote control from China and would like to try them out today.
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Old 08-20-2015, 06:48 AM   #4
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Perfect timing!
Got a couple of those cheap LED dimmers with remote control from China and would like to try them out today.
Report back on the functionality of those dimmers. I have been eying those for some time. Add some pictures of the install. I need to install dimmers on the exterior porch lights, for I have had neighbors complain they were too bright.
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Old 08-20-2015, 07:06 AM   #5
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Report back on the functionality of those dimmers. I have been eying those for some time. Add some pictures of the install. I need to install dimmers on the exterior porch lights, for I have had neighbors complain they were too bright.
Hmmm, hadn't thought about the exterior porch lights.

Have two of the dimmers but I'm afraid that the controllers are non-specific, IOW each remote will work with both controllers. We'll see.
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:55 AM   #6
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So here's the dimmers that I got:
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DN0ESVQ/r...290_TE_3p_dp_1

That's Can$3.61 ea, ridiculously low. I bought two; they even come with the batteries and free shipping. Took a while to be shipped from China but I got them in 4-6 weeks.

One problem: they want both the pos and neg leads to the lights, and all I could find at the wall switch was the pos lead.

I wanted to control the 8 pot lights in the main living area of our 240RKS, so I started pulling down the pots looking for the main +- feed. Watch out for those springs on the pots!!!! I would snip a pos/green wire and see if all the lights went out. After 4-5 snips I finally found the main power leads to the pots. It came in at the FURTHEST pot from the switch. Incredible.

Inserted the dimmer and it works great. You can even set it to strobe lighting with adjustable frequencies if you want to induce an epileptic fit.

One nice feature, you can set the dimness you want then hide the remote and use the wall switch. The controller remembers the last setting even when it has no power

A second possible problem: all remotes seem to use the same freq to access the light controllers. IOW I could use either remote to control my LEDS. But, if only one controller is powered on with the wall switch, only that controller should be changed by the remote. The others should be unaffected. I haven't tried this but will maybe next week.

Oh yes, and be sure to pull out the plastic slip separating the battery from the electronics in the remote. It doesn't work otherwise. Don't ask ...

Anyway, it was interesting, and all's well that end's well.
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:17 AM   #7
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So here's the dimmers that I got:
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DN0ESVQ/r...290_TE_3p_dp_1

That's Can$3.61 ea, ridiculously low. I bought two; they even come with the batteries and free shipping. Took a while to be shipped from China but I got them in 4-6 weeks.

One problem: they want both the pos and neg leads to the lights, and all I could find at the wall switch was the pos lead.

I wanted to control the 8 pot lights in the main living area of our 240RKS, so I started pulling down the pots looking for the main +- feed. Watch out for those springs on the pots!!!! I would snip a pos/green wire and see if all the lights went out. After 4-5 snips I finally found the main power leads to the pots. It came in at the FURTHEST pot from the switch. Incredible.

Inserted the dimmer and it works great. You can even set it to strobe lighting with adjustable frequencies if you want to induce an epileptic fit.

One nice feature, you can set the dimness you want then hide the remote and use the wall switch. The controller remembers the last setting even when it has no power

A second possible problem: all remotes seem to use the same freq to access the light controllers. IOW I could use either remote to control my LEDS. But, if only one controller is powered on with the wall switch, only that controller should be changed by the remote. The others should be unaffected. I haven't tried this but will maybe next week.

Oh yes, and be sure to pull out the plastic slip separating the battery from the electronics in the remote. It doesn't work otherwise. Don't ask ...

Anyway, it was interesting, and all's well that end's well.
I have several of these in my LED inventory and was going to use these for some under lighting under the stairs both inside and outside. I think that I am going to replace the ones in the slideouts with the same style dimmer that is installed for the main lighting. Far too many remotes already with this unit, bedroom tv, living area tv, surround sound, stereo, ORV remote.PHEW...

I think the DW will have a kniption if I add another remote.
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Old 08-20-2015, 01:09 PM   #8
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...
I think that I am going to replace the ones in the slideouts with the same style dimmer that is installed for the main lighting. Far too many remotes already with this unit, bedroom tv, living area tv, surround sound, stereo, ORV remote.PHEW...

I think the DW will have a kniption if I add another remote.
Heh, understood. And presumably that dimmer will not require the neg. lead, saving you much grief trying to find it.

Would be interested in seeing what you end up with.
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Old 08-20-2015, 06:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I have several of these in my LED inventory and was going to use these for some under lighting under the stairs both inside and outside. I think that I am going to replace the ones in the slideouts with the same style dimmer that is installed for the main lighting. Far too many remotes already with this unit, bedroom tv, living area tv, surround sound, stereo, ORV remote.PHEW...

I think the DW will have a kniption if I add another remote.
When you get the new switch could you post the make and model. I am interested in the type of dimmer switch you currently have in your trailer.
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Old 08-21-2015, 12:26 AM   #10
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This seems to be the company that manufactures the electrical switches that ORV uses. On our next trip I am going to remove the switches and see if they are interchangeable.

JR Products :: Home
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:33 AM   #11
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This seems to be the company that manufactures the electrical switches that ORV uses. On our next trip I am going to remove the switches and see if they are interchangeable.

JR Products :: Home
hmmm, the sliders+switch that are "LED approved" are 3 wire.
Not sure how they would be wired up.
Perhaps they just need a neg (grd) wire from anywhere?
If so, am sure I could have found neg wire close by my wall switch.

The rotary dial ones are two-wire but they don't say anything about whether they work with LEDs.
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:51 AM   #12
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It looks like they just need a ground wire. There must be some sort of a ground bus in the slide.
My first concern is the size of the face plate, the dimmer has a much smaller external foot print. Hopefully there are no marks on trim when I remove the faceplate to see if the slide switch will fit in place of the on/off switch. I then can also order a matching switch to add a water pump switch in the bathroom.
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:54 AM   #13
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...
I then can also order a matching switch to add a water pump switch in the bathroom.


OK, I'll bite. Why do you want to do that?
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Old 08-21-2015, 06:06 AM   #14
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We turn the pump off when not using it, and the switch is located at the other end of the coach and I am old and lazy, and do not want to stumble around at 4 am looking for a switch.
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