Outdoors RV slide leak

[brulaz]

Originally Posted by Cumminsfan

Nice analysis. Not to go OT too much but I was wondering what you do for packing your clothes for a 4 month trip? We are looking at maybe an RK trailer in a couple years and also would like to hit the road for 2-3 months at a time. Don't really want to get a larger 5th wheel with the front closet. We'd like to stay in the 28-30' TT range.

I didn't want anything longer or taller also, as we like to stop at Smoky Mtns N.P. on the way down and back. And some Southern sites have these huge Live Oak branches hanging down over the campsite, like in Anastasia S.P..

The 240RKS has a full closet in the middle that's packed with jackets, hoodies and raincoats. It's cold when we go down and come back, and occasionally even in Florida it gets cold in the winter. I hate the cold.

Then there's the two side closets next to the bed and the little closet over the bed that we fight over. Rarely used heavy stuff like hiking boots go under the bed. Hung a fabric shoe rack next to the kitchen door on the back of dinette seat. Not too elegant, and mostly its my wife's shoes that fit, but it keeps them from cluttering up the floor.

We also use the back seat of the SuperCab to hang clothes that aren't being used regularly. Put a rail across from side to side and a clothes storage bag there. And we carry two suitcases that are stowed back there. My wife is still working and likes to visit sites and go to meetings and conferences while we're traveling. So business attire ends up here.

And then we just visit a laundromat every couple of weeks. Many of the Florida campgrounds we go to are pretty reasonable.

You get used to it and eventually figure out what you need, what would be nice, and what's useless. When the weather's good in Florida, all I want is my shorts and sandals .

[evergreen49]

Originally Posted by brulaz

Love the Timber Ridge 240RKS, the layout and construction. As Snow Birds we basically live in it 4 months out of the year.

But for some reason many components in ours had issues (water pump, remote control, propane regulator, marker lights, stab jacks, slide motor, and probably more that I forget). But ORV was very helpful sending me the needed parts; many repairs I did myself as we are usually travelling and far from any dealer.

As for the truck, you are right, these are heavy trailers. Mine is reaching its 8100# GVWR, and with a full load of water will be over it. And perhaps more importantly at 60mph, they are big with 64 sqft of frontal area. But that's not a problem with Ford's 3.5L Ecoboost. It pulls it just fine with lots of low-end torque and HP.

On the level, with no wind, it cruises at 1700rpm in 6th gear. I'm getting 10.7 mpgUS towing with Premium gas, 19.1 mpgUS not towing (but that's usually with the kayaks on top). Ford recommends Premium when towing heavy. So far, expenses other than gas are about Can$100 per year for a full synthetic oil change and tire rotation.

What is a problem is the trailer's tongue weight. Mine is over 1200# and if I add more batteries ... well I really shouldn't as the truck is already at its max. Because of the tongue weight and all the stuff we carry in the truck I'm at 85% of the truck's GCWR, 98% of its GVWR, and 102% of the rear GAWR. And my hitch receiver is only rated for 1150# with a WDH. I use a an Equal-i-Zer WDH with 1400# bars.

And another thing. The suspension/tires on most "half-ton" trucks are not tuned for their max weight carrying abilities, rather for their unloaded weights. When loaded up, they "wallow". So as we tow 70% of the time with this truck, I stiffened the suspension and added LT-E tires. Others, who don't tow as regularly, don't bother.

What I should have done is order the Heavy Duty Payload option. That stiffens the suspension, adds the LT tires and, in addition, gives you a tougher rear axle/wheels (with a higher rear GAWR) and a higher payload. It's definitely a cost-effective option if you plan to tow/haul this trailer regularly.

And, finally, if/when I get a new truck, I'll get a 4x4. With this heavy a trailer, I'm finding it a lot easier to get stuck once the rear wheels are off pavement. Like backing the trailer up sandy slope, or even in our back yard when the grass is wet and the soil is saturated.

But for now, we're sticking with what we have.

Hope this helps.

Thanks brulaz:

It was disappointing to hear about all the warranty work you had to perform. I am not handy and although I expect some issues to come up, I thought ORV was one of the better quality control RV manufacturers. This makes me look further on the site for other warranty issues to see if there is a pattern.

With regard to my tow vehicle, I just purchased a 2015 F150 with their 3.5L ecoboost, 3.55 RR axle, 7000#GVWR, Max trailer tow package and FX4 off road package. I have no idea what this all means but the dealer claims I can tow up to 12,200 lbs. Do you think I will be okay with the ORV Timber Ridge?

Thanks, Evergreen49

[brulaz]

Originally Posted by evergreen49

...
With regard to my tow vehicle, I just purchased a 2015 F150 with their 3.5L ecoboost, 3.55 RR axle, 7000#GVWR, Max trailer tow package and FX4 off road package. I have no idea what this all means but the dealer claims I can tow up to 12,200 lbs. Do you think I will be okay with the ORV Timber Ridge?

Thanks, Evergreen49

Ignore the dealer.

You can tow it. But you could well be over-weight, I dunno. Depends upon the truck's payload, how much you put in it and the tongue weight of your trailer. There's a little yellow sticker on the truck's door jamb that should tell you the payload as it comes from the factory. That's a start.

And you may find the suspension/tires too sloppy.

[evergreen49]

The Truck and Ford website says the "payload" is 2,020. Is this okay?

[brulaz]

Originally Posted by evergreen49

The Truck and Ford website says the "payload" is 2,020. Is this okay?

Would be if that's what's on your truck's yellow door jamb sticker. But is it? The website has the max possible payload with NO options. Your payload will be lower.

Just for argument say your yellow sticker is 1800# payload. This is pretty good, the 2015 really did increase their payloads with that Al body. And say your trailer has a lower tongue weight than mine, say 950# + 50# for a WDH, say 1000# total? (we DO carry a lot). That leaves 800# for you and your family and any gear, firewood in the truck. My wife and I pack a lot because we're going to Florida for 4 months. But there's only two of us, not a whole family. Anyway add it all up and see where it gets you.

I run my truck right at its weight ratings (+-2%), and that works fine for me. But I've upped the suspension and tires as we're travelling 4 months per year. Some folks don't like doing getting so close to the manufacturer's weight ratings. (Some wouldn't touch our trailer without a 1 ton Diesel Dually.) Others have no problems with going over the ratings all the time. On another forum there's guys running 5th wheels and >500# over the rear GAWR. I wouldn't, but it's up to you, what you feel comfortable with.

Whatever you do, once you get the trailer, do yourself a favour and load the trailer and truck up for camping and go to a CAT scale or similar and find out where you stand weight-wise. I've always found it very educational.

[Highway 4x4]

Sounds like you will be OK and you've done the upgrades and will continue to look for more. Just make sure the TT brakes work at their best. When you're going down the road and everything in front of you turns to poop, that's when all your mods will pay. You will know soon enough if you TV and TT will work for you.

[evergreen49]

Originally Posted by brulaz

Would be if that's what's on your truck's yellow door jamb sticker. But is it? The website has the max possible payload with NO options. Your payload will be lower.

Just for argument say your yellow sticker is 1800# payload. This is pretty good, the 2015 really did increase their payloads with that Al body. And say your trailer has a lower tongue weight than mine, say 950# + 50# for a WDH, say 1000# total? (we DO carry a lot). That leaves 800# for you and your family and any gear, firewood in the truck. My wife and I pack a lot because we're going to Florida for 4 months. But there's only two of us, not a whole family. Anyway add it all up and see where it gets you.

I run my truck right at its weight ratings (+-2%), and that works fine for me. But I've upped the suspension and tires as we're travelling 4 months per year. Some folks don't like doing getting so close to the manufacturer's weight ratings. (Some wouldn't touch our trailer without a 1 ton Diesel Dually.) Others have no problems with going over the ratings all the time. On another forum there's guys running 5th wheels and >500# over the rear GAWR. I wouldn't, but it's up to you, what you feel comfortable with.

Whatever you do, once you get the trailer, do yourself a favour and load the trailer and truck up for camping and go to a CAT scale or similar and find out where you stand weight-wise. I've always found it very educational.

With not being very mechanical, all these numbers make no sense to me. I called Ford and they gave me these numbers for my specific VIN #- GCVW = 16,900, GCWR=9,900, Towing=11,500. The TT I have on "hold" weights 6,200 Dry weight and they estimate plus 1,000 of my "stuff". So it appears I have lots of extra potential towing capacity.

Now, Ford says I am okay because I have the 3.5 L ecoboost engine (they say more towing than their diesel), with the Max Tow Package and 3.55 axle.

Thoughts?

[brulaz]

Originally Posted by Highway 4x4

Sounds like you will be OK and you've done the upgrades and will continue to look for more. Just make sure the TT brakes work at their best. When you're going down the road and everything in front of you turns to poop, that's when all your mods will pay. You will know soon enough if you TV and TT will work for you.

No kidding. Have had broken brake wires and greased brakes on my previous trailer. Trailer axle/brakes are the weakest part of the whole rig IMHO, and the truck's weight ratings assume the trailer can stop itself.

[brulaz]

Originally Posted by evergreen49

With not being very mechanical, all these numbers make no sense to me. I called Ford and they gave me these numbers for my specific VIN #- GCVW = 16,900, GCWR=9,900, Towing=11,500. The TT I have on "hold" weights 6,200 Dry weight and they estimate plus 1,000 of my "stuff". So it appears I have lots of extra potential towing capacity.

Now, Ford says I am okay because I have the 3.5 L ecoboost engine (they say more towing than their diesel), with the Max Tow Package and 3.55 axle.

Thoughts?

Well, like I said earlier, tow capacity will not be the limiting factor with your truck. Payload will limit what you can reasonably tow. And as you haven't got the truck yet, we don't know what that is. It's certainly less than 2020#.

But I'll go out on a limb here and guess that you'll be ok, especially if you don't plan to carry a lot of stuff in the truck and only 1000# in the trailer.

We're right at the max with our truck, but we carry a lot. And the 2015 F150s should be good for a few hundred pounds more capacity, depending upon options and configuration.

Get a good WDH, load up the trailer, set up the WDH, pressure up your tires to their max, and, if you can, drop by some scales to see how the weights are.

[CoastieFE]

I have the same exact issue on the same RV. I only found mine after pulling it from winter storage up here in Alaska, apparently it had been leaking all winter but you couldn't see it with the slide in. So far, it looks like the rail that covers up the joint where the floor and forward wall of the slide come together was allowing water into my slide and dripping onto the carpet. I ended up caulking the rail, but have yet to get a heavy rain to see if it's fixed completely. The thing that is most irritating is I'm only six months out of warranty, I shudder to think of what type of damage I have to the wood on the slide and floor of my trailer. I'm also disappointed with ORV customer support, an email and multiple calls have been ignored, and I was simply looking for some guidance on possible common problems with this issue.

[brulaz]

Originally Posted by CoastieFE

...
So far, it looks like the rail that covers up the joint where the floor and forward wall of the slide come together was allowing water into my slide and dripping onto the carpet. I ended up caulking the rail, but have yet to get a heavy rain to see if it's fixed completely.
...

When you say "forward wall", is that the "outside wall"? As opposed to the side walls ...

I haven't looked under the fascia there on my Timber Ridge to see how the outside wall is connected to the floor. But from what you say, it sounds like it is similar to the side walls.

The slide floor should be Marine Grade plywood so should withstand an occasional soak. The carpeting however can get moldy. And the underlying bubble insulation can prevent the plywood floor from drying out.

[CoastieFE]

Where the forward wall of the slide and the floor come together outside. There is a strip of metal with a gasket beneath that runs over the joint. I initially found the strip of carpet inside the RV soaked, but upon further inspection found the forward corner of the slide beneath the dinette seats soaked as well. From what I can tell the water was getting behind that trim piece on the slide, saturating the carpet beneath the dinette and running down and dripping on the carpet beneath the slide. It's the only place I can find moisture coming in and explains why it managed to get into my RV with slide closed during the winter. I'll post a pic if I can figure out how-

[brulaz]

Ah yes I see.

Sounds like same problem I had on the side walls of the slide, just on the outside/forward wall of the slide. In my case, the water never got to the inside of the slide, it just dripped onto the floor in the trailer. And as it was a side wall, it never happened with the slide closed.

I can see that on the outer/forward slide wall this problem would be much more severe. Especially when leaving it closed up in storage for a long time.

Think I'll be taking a closer look at ours when I get a chance.

Does your trailer have any fascia there, like the Timber Ridge and upper trailers do? Or is it a Creekside, Black Rock? Just wondering if the fascia on our Timber Ridge is giving us an extra layer of protection.

[schrod]

[QUOTE=evergreen49;2558999]Thanks brulaz:

It was disappointing to hear about all the warranty work you had to perform. I am not handy and although I expect some issues to come up, I thought ORV was one of the better quality control RV manufacturers. This makes me look further on the site for other warranty issues to see if there is a pattern.

Yes, there is definitely a pattern here. Evidently quality control in the factory is very lacking. you can expect to have water leaks, stripped out screws, hidden damage that only surfaces after leaving the dealer. Everyone that posts on here seems to expect these sort of things. I am from Iowa and I for one expected much better. I listened to and believed all the praise that posters on here lauded onto Outdoors RV. P.T. Barnam was right--there is a sucker born every minute and I was one.