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Old 11-09-2019, 05:06 PM   #1
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Removing Under Belly Cover

Has anyone removed the cover for the under belly?
It looks like in some places it is Pop Riveted up there.

Looking at installing a stabilizer system and need to expose the frame to weld some brackets to it.
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Old 11-09-2019, 05:53 PM   #2
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Mine is riveted in place with some tough looking rivets. Hope I never have to open it for anything.
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Old 11-09-2019, 06:38 PM   #3
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You have to grind or drill the rivet out of all of them. If you know where you're going to work, just cut the coroplast on three sides with the open end facing to the rear. Retape the cuts with Gorilla tape. Works great.

When replacing them, use self tapping TEC screws to hold it up. Our GP came with TEC screws and not rivets. So glad it did!! I've had to drop it twice due to failed dump valves and other issues. I have cut it a couple times as well.
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Old 11-09-2019, 06:50 PM   #4
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I will soon be installing my SteadyFast system that I took off of my previous trailer. I was under my 250RKS today checking out what would need to be done. I don't think I will have to remove any coroplast from the underbelly. Just cut small sections (like 3"x3") out of the coroplast with a razor knife directly below the frame where the mounting brackets go. At least that is my plan at the moment. Although I wish it looked easy to remove the coroplast because I would love to do that to get a good look at everything under there to take pictures, explore, etc, so I knew exactly what was where in case something went wrong. For my previous trailer I had photos and mapped every wire, all the plumbing, etc., but I don't think I will go to the effect of removing the underbelly on this one, it just looks like way to much effort.
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Old 11-09-2019, 06:59 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by wprather View Post
I will soon be installing my SteadyFast system that I took off of my previous trailer. I was under my 250RKS today checking out what would need to be done. I don't think I will have to remove any coroplast from the underbelly. Just cut small sections (like 3"x3") out of the coroplast with a razor knife directly below the frame where the mounting brackets go. At least that is my plan at the moment.


Thanks for the info guys! WP thats exactly what I am doing, just purchased the steady fast for it!

How did you like it? Are you going to drill the frame? I was thinking about having it welded... Dont really want to drill the frame...

Are you going to use the locking bracket braces on it?

Thanks
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Old 11-10-2019, 12:33 AM   #6
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Thanks for the info guys! WP thats exactly what I am doing, just purchased the steady fast for it!

How did you like it? Are you going to drill the frame? I was thinking about having it welded... Dont really want to drill the frame...

Are you going to use the locking bracket braces on it?

Thanks
I loved it on my last trailer, worked great. The owner is super helpful if you have questions on installation. I called on a Sunday and he answered. Yes I drilled into frame as instructions called for. Works fine and glad I didnít weld because took it off previous trailer and now putting it on ORV. I watched lots of YouTube videos of installing it and all drilled the frame, no mention of welding. You will like it! It does take a bit of effort to install though.
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Old 11-10-2019, 08:22 AM   #7
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I loved it on my last trailer, worked great. The owner is super helpful if you have questions on installation. I called on a Sunday and he answered. Yes I drilled into frame as instructions called for. Works fine and glad I didnít weld because took it off previous trailer and now putting it on ORV. I watched lots of YouTube videos of installing it and all drilled the frame, no mention of welding. You will like it! It does take a bit of effort to install though.
When you get done would love to see pictures of the installation.

Thanks!
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Old 11-10-2019, 09:48 AM   #8
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If it's like my 2019 TR25RDS then they're not rivets they're nails shot from a pneumatic nail gun. A cold chisel hitting on the edge of the nail will drive them out.
We used the same types of fasteners when I was in construction. Way way faster than screws.

https://www.hilti.com/c/CLS_DIRECT_F...NAILS/r6192163

I needed to run some wires along the side of my TT above the coroplast so I had to remove the entire side of fasteners. I then bought some self taping hex head screws and refastened the coroplast. I needed to drill a pilot hole 1st though. time consuming but solid.
My last Fox just had screws holding the coroplast up. Much more owner friendly.
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Old 11-10-2019, 01:00 PM   #9
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I would never remove the belly cover for fear of what quality construction I would find. Better to just not know. Kind of like looking behind the electric panel.
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Old 11-10-2019, 01:20 PM   #10
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I would never remove the belly cover for fear of what quality construction I would find. Better to just not know. Kind of like looking behind the electric panel.
You're right...it's ugly under there. Wires hanging all over the place. Little tiny wires for the sensors wrapped over everything and left hanging. Dump valve extension on the GP routed next frame so cotter pin fails and handle rod pulls out. Plumbing connectors not supported.

ETC ETC
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Old 11-10-2019, 09:12 PM   #11
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Had to open mine up to replace the dump valve rods. Donít do it on a day where you have other commitments. Have a good grinder and if you are doing a larger section some spare wheels. A good supply of Tec screws, an impact drill, patience and a large box of adult beverages are also required. Oh, and donít spend a lot of time inspecting or you will need more beverages.
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Old 11-12-2019, 02:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cumminsfan View Post
If it's like my 2019 TR25RDS then they're not rivets they're nails shot from a pneumatic nail gun. A cold chisel hitting on the edge of the nail will drive them out.
We used the same types of fasteners when I was in construction. Way way faster than screws.

https://www.hilti.com/c/CLS_DIRECT_F...NAILS/r6192163

I needed to run some wires along the side of my TT above the coroplast so I had to remove the entire side of fasteners. I then bought some self taping hex head screws and refastened the coroplast. I needed to drill a pilot hole 1st though. time consuming but solid.
My last Fox just had screws holding the coroplast up. Much more owner friendly.
Well, that is crazy interesting how drastically different same year/model can have different belly fasteners. 90% of my underbelly is held up by self-tapping screws. The other 10% is held by hopes and dreams.
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Old 11-13-2019, 01:34 AM   #13
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When you get done would love to see pictures of the installation.

Thanks!
Glad to, but not sure when I will get to it. Not in a hurry to do it. No camping plans until the spring.
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Old 11-13-2019, 08:09 PM   #14
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Same here. I was going to try and get to it but the snow has come and since the underbelly is riveted on or whatever it is I cant just open it up. I park at a storage lot so its hard to work on.. especially if its craptastic out...
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