Schwintec vs. Rack & Pinion Slides

[Rockies]

We've been looking at the larger, 2xx series, OVR TT's. Our favorite floor plans (the 250RKS and 270RKS) use Schwintek slide mechanisms on all slides exclusively, whereas our "Plan B" choices (the 260RLS and 280RKS) use a rack and pinion, frame supported, strut design on the one large slide and Schwintek on a very small 2nd slide in the bedroom.

Couple of observations I'm hoping you folks can either confirm or correct:

1. It appears to me that the Schwintek design places ALL the weight of the slide on the wooden floor that rests on top of the frame outriggers (especially when extended), plus it requires support from the adjoining wall and the Schwintek H-columns to remain level.

2. On the OVR rack and pinion slides I looked at, it appears all the weight of the slide is supported entirely by several struts which are inserted directly into the side of the frame (when extended or retracted). I also noticed numerous, easily accessible vertical/horizontal adjustment points along the bottom of the rack and pinion slide. I believe these type of h/v adjustments would be much more difficult to make with the Schwintek system.

If my observations are correct, then my gut tells me to pass on our favorite floor plans with the floor/wall supported Schwintek design and go with our Plan B choices that use the frame supported, rack and pinion slide design on the largest slide.

Am I far off the mark with my assumptions?

Thanks!

[Randy the sly old fox]

If you look on the internet the Schwintek slide system is being used in a lot of units - I have seen them used on large slides - these have three tracks on the sides.

The drawbacks from what I have seen - bottom supported on rollers that can have issues. Slide weight supported by sidewalls - could cause issues if the wall structure does not support the slide weight.

The through the frame systems are used mainly by ORV on the larger slides that hold sofas or combinations of dinettes and sofas. They provide a flat floor when extended and float above the floor when retracted. The through the frame models have a built in support for the slide and it is based in the frame - IMHO a stronger support than a side wall.

There appear to be fewer people who have issues with the through the frame than the Schwintek system - at least according to several web forums covering many different RV Mfgs.

There are some things I like about the Schwintek system - but overall I would have to pick the tried and true through the frame system.

[jtbuilds]

Welcome...for a new guy you're on the right the.....slide

Swintech is not a better (don't find them on high end RVs) system. Manufactures like it because it leaves the area under the slide clear for tanks and piping. Ask 3-4 dealers of any brand if they have less issues with Shwintech or R&P.

Before you make a decision check out how to bring both systems in if there is a breakdown.

On a R&P the outside it carried by the steel arm and the inside edge is supported/slides along the floor.

Not mater the trailer make sure the dealer checks the slide stops....use blue Loc-Tite if needed.

Choose a model that has the water tank as close (over is the best) to the axles as possible. A water tank too far forward (like ours) will mess with the tongue weight.

Check out the access to the trailers for loading/loading with the slides in.

My $0.02...the extra storage in the ward slide on the 280RKS isn't worth the added maintenance issues of another slide.

[jtbuilds]

Welcome...for a new guy you're on the right the.....slide

Swintech is not a better (don't find them on high end RVs) system. Manufactures like it because it leaves the area under the slide clear for tanks and piping. Ask 3-4 dealers of any brand if they have less issues with Shwintech or R&P.

Before you make a decision check out how to bring both systems in if there is a breakdown.

On a R&P the outside it carried by the steel arm and the inside edge is supported/slides along the floor.

Not mater the trailer make sure the dealer checks the slide stops....use blue Loc-Tite if needed.

Choose a model that has the water tank as close (over is the best) to the axles as possible. A water tank too far forward (like ours) will mess with the tongue weight.

Check out the access to the trailers for loading/loading with the slides in.

My $0.02...the extra storage in the ward slide on the 280RKS isn't worth the added maintenance issues and heat loss!! of another slide.

[fisher99]

Originally Posted by jtbuilds

[snip]
My $0.02...the extra storage in the ward slide on the 280RKS isn't worth the added maintenance issues and heat loss!! of another slide.

While I'm sure I will feel differently the first time my ward slide fails, we love it and have become quite dependent upon the extra space that it provides.

[puttin]

On the R & P style the weight of the slide rests on the rams and tubes (when deployed). When the slide is in, the weight is on the floor underneath. If everything else suits you- go with the R & P models.

[Bob_C]

This trailer has one of each......no problems....

[egwilly]

Big difference is when they fail and you have to manually retract them for travel.....rack and pinion require you get on the ground, and use a wrench to turn the motor to move the slide closed. Never have had to do this.
The schwintec requires you to disengage the motors and shafts inside the trailer along the slide wall, then hopefully push the slide in and brace it closed until you can get it fixed. Not easy on the fifth wheel with the slide 7 feet off the ground.

[Rickeoni]

How many on this forum have had either style fail requiring a manual retraction?

[brulaz]

Originally Posted by Rickeoni

How many on this forum have had either style fail requiring a manual retraction?

Me, except I couldn't retract it manually.
Manual only works on my Rack & Pinion type if the gearing is intact.
Good for when your batteries are dead.

In my case the shear bolt on one of the gears sheared.
Manual would just turn the motor but nothing else.

The original bolt was Stainless Steel for some reason. The replacement from the manufacturer was Grade 8. Big difference.

[Lac]

Originally Posted by Rickeoni

How many on this forum have had either style fail requiring a manual retraction?

Good point my friend.

Coops

[egwilly]

Me. On my last trailer. Schwintec system with a bad motor control box.