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Old 11-18-2017, 12:27 PM   #1
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Sewer Dump Valve Tight

Hi everyone. When emtying my tanks I'm noticing my sewer valve is a lot harder to pull than the grey water valve. Almost to a point where I think I'm going to pull the handle off! This can't be good lol. It works, always consistently, but I'm starting to worry for how long. Any thoughts? Haven't had to service anything like this before. I guess I'm going to have to remove the valve for proper servicing? Thx for any advice.
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Old 11-18-2017, 12:34 PM   #2
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I would just replace it. Just replaced both valves in our motorhome. Put a little plumbers grease on the sliding parts.
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Old 11-18-2017, 02:20 PM   #3
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Before you replace the valve give this a try. Tank Valve Lube
I had a really stuck valve. I used this and it took care of it and it operates with ease. It takes about 2 oz for two or three times to treat.
Also give your tank a couple of good flushes.
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Old 11-18-2017, 02:34 PM   #4
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Zerk it and include it in your lube schedule or as needed

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oi9pk41N0J...-57-20_880.jpg
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Old 11-18-2017, 02:51 PM   #5
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Here's some food for thought,

My 2003 coach still has the original dump valves. Never been removed, replaced or otherwise serviced. Non Zerked....
Why don't I and hundreds (maybe thousands) of RVs not have any issues with dump valves? Could it have anything to do with the amount of solids going through the valve?

As a side note, I have used Happy Campers treatment for the past 8+ years I've owned this coach. I use lots of water during normal use and when dumping.
I don't leave my dump valves open. I only dump my tanks when they are at least 1/2 to 3/4 full. I don't put anything but TP and organic stuff in my black tank. Very fussy about what goes down the sink into the grey tank.
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Old 11-18-2017, 03:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolu View Post
Before you replace the valve give this a try. Tank Valve Lube
I had a really stuck valve. I used this and it took care of it and it operates with ease. It takes about 2 oz for two or three times to treat.
Also give your tank a couple of good flushes.

Yes I regularly use the Thetford tank valve lube. Whenever the tanks have been flushed and will be in storage for a while, I use a bottle of the stuff on the three tanks.

So far so good.
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Old 11-18-2017, 03:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
Here's some food for thought,

My 2003 coach still has the original dump valves. Never been removed, replaced or otherwise serviced. Non Zerked....
Why don't I and hundreds (maybe thousands) of RVs not have any issues with dump valves? Could it have anything to do with the amount of solids going through the valve?

As a side note, I have used Happy Campers treatment for the past 8+ years I've owned this coach. I use lots of water during normal use and when dumping.
I don't leave my dump valves open. I only dump my tanks when they are at least 1/2 to 3/4 full. I don't put anything but TP and organic stuff in my black tank. Very fussy about what goes down the sink into the grey tank.
I Concur. And "Very Picky About Grey Tank"...
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Old 11-18-2017, 07:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmystoys View Post
Hi everyone. When emtying my tanks I'm noticing my sewer valve is a lot harder to pull than the grey water valve. Almost to a point where I think I'm going to pull the handle off! This can't be good lol. It works, always consistently, but I'm starting to worry for how long. Any thoughts? Haven't had to service anything like this before. I guess I'm going to have to remove the valve for proper servicing? Thx for any advice.
We have similar rigs. Like you I would be very concerned with a valve that is as hard to pull as you describe. Suggestions above for lubing, flushing, etc. might help. I regularly squirt WD-40 or similar type stuff around the valve shafts and work them in and out a few times. Seems to help a bit.

Since our valves are buried up inside the underbelly enclosure in a heated and insulated space, I suspect replacing the valve won't be easy. However, I have never tried to do so. A call to the factory might provide some guidance.

Best of luck!

Bob
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Old 11-19-2017, 11:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
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We have similar rigs. Like you I would be very concerned with a valve that is as hard to pull as you describe. Suggestions above for lubing, flushing, etc. might help. I regularly squirt WD-40 or similar type stuff around the valve shafts and work them in and out a few times. Seems to help a bit.

Since our valves are buried up inside the underbelly enclosure in a heated and insulated space, I suspect replacing the valve won't be easy. However, I have never tried to do so. A call to the factory might provide some guidance.

Best of luck!

Bob
Your right Bob. The valves are buried pretty deep. There will be lots of removal of material just to expose the sewer valve. I should have tried something before I put it away for the winter. A fun job when spring arrives! I'm usually on top of these things when somethings not normal, but this one got away on me. I will probably try the lube inside and out and go from there. A quick call may be in the works too. Thx everyone.
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Old 11-19-2017, 12:46 PM   #10
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I have a similiar issue in our GP...I wrote to Todd this morning to possibly get a cut dimension for the coroplast so I don't have to drop the whole front section. I usually cut 3 sides and tape with Gorilla tape. I will replace the valves since I'm off-season right now.

I advise what he comes back with.
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Old 11-19-2017, 10:46 PM   #11
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I have a similiar issue in our GP...I wrote to Todd this morning to possibly get a cut dimension for the coroplast so I don't have to drop the whole front section. I usually cut 3 sides and tape with Gorilla tape. I will replace the valves since I'm off-season right now.

I advise what he comes back with.
You might ask Todd for some of the special tape the factory uses for the lamiplast (I think that is what the call the bottom fabric). It is really, really sticky and stays put for a long time.

Bob
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Old 11-19-2017, 10:47 PM   #12
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Try backing the bolts off in before removing the valve.....one or all maybe over tight.
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Old 11-19-2017, 10:49 PM   #13
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You might ask Todd for some of the special tape the factory uses for the lamiplast (I think that is what the call the bottom fabric). It is really, really sticky and stays put for a long time.

Bob
Look for Flex-Mend tape.
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Old 11-20-2017, 12:46 AM   #14
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Here is a pic of the access panel for the valve on the freshwater drain. There are panels for the valves of the other tanks also. If you need more room you can make it wider and cut a new piece of coroplast to cover it. As you can see, my pull rod had come out and I had to drop the cover to fix it. I did not have to make it wider for this but to replace the valve I may have had to make the panel larger.
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