Community Forums

jeffz · 05-06-2018, 06:40 AM

i have a OUTDOORS CREEKSIDE 21RBS, the slide out and awning stopped functioning. All breakers and fuses are good, i'm plugged into shore power and both batteries are fully charged.
All other appliances are functioning.
Both worked fine on a trip last weekend

lonfu · 05-06-2018, 06:45 AM

sounds like you have an open in the wiring where it goes into the slide. usually this is underneath the slide. Inspect the wire, it may be inside a plastic wire loom. good luck.

brulaz · 05-06-2018, 07:52 AM

It's weird that both are not working.

On mine, both switches are next to each other on the main panel. Perhaps a common wire has pulled off or broken or ...?

I would pull that panel and ensure that both switches are getting 12v.

egwilly · 05-06-2018, 08:23 AM

Basic troubleshooting....get a volt meter and back check the connections starting at the control panel, working back to the slide motor.
Like others mentioned, probably a bad connection or disconnected wire.

Best of luck with this....usually easy to fix.

jeffz · 05-06-2018, 08:38 PM

pulled the back panel and all looks fine. there was a fuse but it was ok. a meter determined that switches aren't getting power. opened the converter panel and all fuses and breakers are ok.
not looking forward to dropping the insulation panels underneath to trace the wires.

how the heck do you crank this open manually?

plasma800 · 05-06-2018, 09:25 PM

Call ORV....

brulaz · 05-07-2018, 04:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffz

pulled the back panel and all looks fine. there was a fuse but it was ok. a meter determined that switches aren't getting power. opened the converter panel and all fuses and breakers are ok.
not looking forward to dropping the insulation panels underneath to trace the wires.

how the heck do you crank this open manually?

Agree, ORV should be able to provide you with a wiring diagram.

What year is your trailer?

If your slide is like mine, there's a "ram" underneath that pushes it open and pulls it back. You get underneath, open the panel under the slide, and the gear box has a nut that you can rotate with socket wrench. I wouldn't want to do it, but it's possible.

If your slide is a schwintek (motors and racks on the side walls), I have no idea.

I would start the electrical troubleshooting at the panel underneath at the front of the trailer where the battery lead comes in. On mine, you open two layers to get at an area in the floor with a bunch of self-resetting circuit breakers and wires leading off. At this point a wiring diagram would be a big help.

But on mine there's a single 30A circuit breaker (lozenge shaped) that handles the slide, awning and electrical stabilization jacks. Perhaps that's gone wonky if yours is the same. It can be checked easily anyway.

jeffz · 05-07-2018, 09:12 PM

Checked the panel underneath and in front per Todd at ORV but didnt find any fuses, a lot of wires and some 12v "terminal blocks" but no fuses.

Thanks for weighing in everyone, any more ideas before a tow it 90 miles to the dealer and pay the piper?

jeffz · 05-07-2018, 09:15 PM

By the way, the trailer is a 2016 so I'm pretty disappointed

Randy the sly old fox · 05-08-2018, 12:26 AM

I presume that since you have a meter you checked the fuse with it and not just a visual.

I have not actually looked at mine but from your troubleshooting so far it sounds like an open CB or fuse or a loose connection somewhere. Since both the awning and slide are not working and I know that on the awning they use the switch to reverse the polarity and on the ram type slide they do the same so the issue could be a missing ground as well. I also don't believe that those circuits go through the power distribution panel so the color code on the back of the switches should continue down to the box in the front frame - Measure the voltage between the positive and negative wires - don't rely on the frame for a gnd.

I do know that so far the advice I have got from the factory has been fairly good - not quite 100% but close.

brulaz · 05-08-2018, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffz

Checked the panel underneath and in front per Todd at ORV but didnt find any fuses, a lot of wires and some 12v "terminal blocks" but no fuses.

Thanks for weighing in everyone, any more ideas before a tow it 90 miles to the dealer and pay the piper?

There are no fuses in that area on mine.
Just self-resetting circuit breakers. Lozenge shaped. You can't tell if one is open/faulty just by looking at it.

Like Randy says, you have to measure the voltage going in and coming out to be sure they're working as they should.

jeffz · 05-09-2018, 07:19 PM

I replaced the auto resetting cb per advice from ORV and can now hear it periodically clicking, which I now presume means a short (?)

Randy the sly old fox · 05-09-2018, 10:49 PM

Probably, something is drawing too much current causing the CB to trip.

brulaz · 05-10-2018, 04:57 AM

That constant off/on is prolly why the original breaker died.

Ugh. Tracing that short could be difficult.

I'd start at the off/on switches and detach the wires there.