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08-03-2018, 05:19 PM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TyCreek
Let the fun begin!
The Andersen is an interesting hitch For me, the positives have outweigh the negatives. Certainly I have a different TT with freakish TW
However ... I would in no way consider the distribution properties to be anything comparable to a conventional bar type design. IMO... They work completely different. Does the Andersen distribute weight? Yes, some, but you likely want to limit how much because the distribution leverage point becomes your coupler jaw vs. the ball to socket of a spring bar style.
My take on the Andersen is "do not" use it for high percent weight transfer. Use it for everything else it's good at Just enough tension to ensure ball to coupler lock e.g. turn as one. If it hops it's too tight and the ball is likely hammering the coupler jaw. If it porpoises bring the ball down a notch to dial in the load/unload characteristic.
Visualize the forces at play ... those tension chains are just a few inches down from the A frame to ball/coupler line. That means the coupler is effectively being pulled forward (horizontal) against the ball vs. down (vertical) against the ball like conventional spring bar forces.
Next, the change of horizontal angle adds tension as the deflection from center goes down and offloads as it rises. This same characteristic is present with spring bar styles though it seems amplified with the Andersen. I find a little nose down works best.
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Thanks for the tip. I've got it adjusted with 5 threads showing and it felt good. Porpoising was negligible and I didn't hear any hopping from being too tight. I tried 6 threads to see how much more weight transfer would happen, and it was only 20-40lbs more but was harder to get weight off the chains with the tongue jack so I backed it off back to 5.
My trailer is perfectly level now by measuring the frame at the tongue and in the rear. If I wanted to go nose down, and lowered the hitch to do so, I'd drop 1.5". Probably too much?
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08-03-2018, 09:59 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner Outdoors RV Owners Club Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Treasure Valley Idaho
Posts: 240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RainyDaze
Thanks for the tip. I've got it adjusted with 5 threads showing and it felt good. Porpoising was negligible and I didn't hear any hopping from being too tight. I tried 6 threads to see how much more weight transfer would happen, and it was only 20-40lbs more but was harder to get weight off the chains with the tongue jack so I backed it off back to 5.
My trailer is perfectly level now by measuring the frame at the tongue and in the rear. If I wanted to go nose down, and lowered the hitch to do so, I'd drop 1.5". Probably too much?
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Why not give it a try... with the Andersen it's pretty darn easy to try things ... I've 2 different shank setups with holes staggered and have tried about every possible setting between the 2 and keep dialing in on whatever it takes to be just a touch nose down. Pretty darn happy with things currently and can't think of another adjustment to try
FWIW... My tongue weight continued a steady increase from the day we brought it home to now, where I think it'll stay constant within +- couple hundred pounds, though still at a crazy heavy mark for any 20xx TT when you consider double or more dry weight specs
If a picture is worth a 1000 words ... here's what my rig looks like on the road... at a pee stop, after running down the highway comfortably at over 70mph through a stretch of road that is always windy. Might be just me but sometimes I think the Andersen hitch gets more bad rap crap than it deserves. Damn sexy piece of work is my best description of the hitch
__________________
20FQ yanked along by a F-250
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08-04-2018, 09:16 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,657
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Your 20FQ has a dry hitch weight of 485 lbs. Way way under the 270RK. In your situation the Andersen's ideal. Try leveling everything up with 1,000 lbs for TW with your F150.
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08-04-2018, 06:16 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner Outdoors RV Owners Club Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Treasure Valley Idaho
Posts: 240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cumminsfan
Your 20FQ has a dry hitch weight of 485 lbs. Way way under the 270RK. In your situation the Andersen's ideal. Try leveling everything up with 1,000 lbs for TW with your F150.
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So far, in this thread, his TW has been under 1200lb and mine is well over that mark.
Pointing out that little dry weight factoid helps who or means what?
Also, how is a F150 or a 1000lb TW relative? Did you for some reason have difficulty with that combination? Did you read above what I said about weight distribution?
This thread has 3/4 tons and approaching that in TW too ... This thread will probably soon start knocking on the door of maximum hitch specs. Do you have experience, technical or logical points to help.
__________________
20FQ yanked along by a F-250
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08-05-2018, 07:51 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TyCreek
So far, in this thread, his TW has been under 1200lb and mine is well over that mark.
Pointing out that little dry weight factoid helps who or means what?
Also, how is a F150 or a 1000lb TW relative? Did you for some reason have difficulty with that combination? Did you read above what I said about weight distribution?
This thread has 3/4 tons and approaching that in TW too ... This thread will probably soon start knocking on the door of maximum hitch specs. Do you have experience, technical or logical points to help.
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Yes I have experience with one. So whats your tongue weight?
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08-05-2018, 10:17 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner Outdoors RV Owners Club Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Treasure Valley Idaho
Posts: 240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cumminsfan
Yes I have experience with one. So whats your tongue weight?
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I just shared what mine is over ... after that, what does it matter? If you have point to make, make it already.
Personally I'm very interested in what people have tried and their result perceptions. It's very clear Andersen didn't work for you and that's ok... I've had a few WD hitches over the years and have a favorite conventional design myself, that I've always gone back to. I tend to try different things and decide merits for myself. Andersen hitch is not of conventional design and I try to think of it for what it is vs. what it's not. Sort of helps set logical thought paths for tuning things in.
I'd much rather discuss/understand the tension bounce or harmonic I felt when using a nose up setting ... why did it feel so pronounced vs nose down? I think porpoise is what I called it earlier. I'm very curious if anybody likes towing slightly nose up with one of these hitches?
__________________
20FQ yanked along by a F-250
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08-09-2018, 05:30 PM
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#35
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Junior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Hockinson,Washington
Posts: 11
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I have a 2017 270 RKS. I tow with a 2010 Ram Diesel with the Reese Strait Line system, 1,500# bars... Tows unbelibeably well at all highway speeds. Plenty of truck, and a delight to tow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RainyDaze
Hello! First post. Lots of great info on here.
I'm looking at an ORV 270RKS and am soliciting some feedback on towing a trailer in the 8-9000lb range.
I have a 2016 GMC 2500HD with a Duramax and love being able to tow my current 4,500lb trailer at 65-70mph all the time. My truck is rated for 13,000lbs. When I had my RAM 1500 I'd be stuck doing 45mph with the semis over all the passes, and if this bigger trailer puts me back there I'll reconsider the 270RKS and get something lighter.
So, can you diesel guys with heavier trailers keep your speed up on the big long hills?
Thanks!
RainyDaze
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__________________
Dave Sauerbrey
2017 Timber Ridge 270RKS
2010 Ram 2500 6.7 Diesel
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