Community Forums

jimmystoys · 12-03-2018, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad Wilf

That's one of the statements they make about the trailers, their frames are straight through so they can offer better ground clearance and rigidity up front..

I agree, but the coupling can be mounted below the main frame in ways to still have that rigidity.

Tuquala · 12-03-2018, 04:42 PM

Here is a pic of our old Jayco with an "underslung" coupler. It is no weaker than a top mounted coupler. Frame boxed in, clean look, jack still mounted top of frame also.

Papa_Jim · 12-03-2018, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad Wilf

That's one of the statements they make about the trailers, their frames are straight through so they can offer better ground clearance and rigidity up front..

Brad, the statement that the frames are straight through is not quite accurate, at least on my trailer. My hitch is 2" X 6", 1/8" thick wall box frame. The trailer frame is 7" thick I-Beam. The hitch box frame is butt welded to the side of the trailer I-Beam frame. I think a hitch box frame mounted under the I-Beam frame and welded to the underside of the frame members would be as strong or stronger. I don't think it's a strength issue, but a design preference issue on the part of the manufacturer.

Jim

Brad Wilf · 12-04-2018, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papa_Jim

Brad, the statement that the frames are straight through is not quite accurate, at least on my trailer. My hitch is 2" X 6", 1/8" thick wall box frame. The trailer frame is 7" thick I-Beam. The hitch box frame is butt welded to the side of the trailer I-Beam frame. I think a hitch box frame mounted under the I-Beam frame and welded to the underside of the frame members would be as strong or stronger. I don't think it's a strength issue, but a design preference issue on the part of the manufacturer.

Jim

Ahh, thanks for setting me straight..

Papa_Jim · 12-05-2018, 04:32 PM

At first I thought the hitch was an extension of the frame.

I had pulled the sheeting down underneath at the front of the trailer to do some wiring. I was actually surprised to see that the hitch came through the front frame cross member and was butted up against the side of the trailer frame and welded in that position!

It was then that I decided that I didn't want to deal with cutting the hitch from the frame, and just modified the front of the existing hitch.

It was also then that I thought that a hitch placed underneath the frame members and welded to the frame members could possibly be a stronger alternative, and could also solve the issue of the hitch height being too high.

Jim

Vintage465 · 12-09-2018, 01:32 PM

I'm in the "level" camp. Certainly better to be just a tad nose down then any nose up for sure. 2" nose down is more than I'd want.

WNDOPDLR · 12-09-2018, 02:05 PM

Thanks again to all who have contributed to this thread.

I moved the ball up on the hitch as high as it would go. Originally it had been as low as it could be. I suspect the PO did that so that it would clear his tail gate, but since purchase, I installed an electric tongue jack and my tailgate does not clear that anyway. Since I moved the ball, the "attitude" is much better with about 1 1/2 inch drop to the front of the trailer. I re-checked my weight distribution and all there is still good. I think I am good to go and am anxious to tow and check it out. As originally stated, the original setup towed beautifully, so I am hoping that I didn't lose any of that. Looks like it will be at least a couple months before we are able to get away, but we will do a regional shakedown before we leave for any major trips.

TheKassman · 12-09-2018, 03:15 PM

Absorption refers run better when level so that aspect of your question would depend how tilted you are.

RBrittonBrow · 12-09-2018, 05:39 PM

Proper set up is level all the way from the back of the trailer to and including the front of the tow vehicle! You want to spread the load across all four axles. Tightening the tension on the bars will lift the rear of the tow vehicle

WNDOPDLR · 12-09-2018, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RBrittonBrow

Proper set up is level all the way from the back of the trailer to and including the front of the tow vehicle! You want to spread the load across all four axles. Tightening the tension on the bars will lift the rear of the tow vehicle

Equalizer, the mfg of the hitch recommends a drop of 1 1/2"

phfkef · 12-10-2018, 09:12 AM

As level as possible is not only good for trailer axle weight distribution but also for the good brake performance that will result.

TyCreek · 12-10-2018, 05:24 PM

ORV has eye to eye tandem axle suspension so level is a relative reference unlike torsion or other individually suspended design. That little Y thingy between the springs is an equalizer to distribute the load evenly while in its operating range. Basically perfectly level or slightly nose down should be insignificant for braking or tire/axle load.

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