WDH that fits with battery tray + century plastics box

[R.B]

I know a few here have the (4) GC-2 century plastics box that the battery tray option is made for. Which hitch do you have? The brackets for the one I have stick out into the area made for the box to sit in.

[Tuquala]

Either I can't see the interference, or can't without the box in the pic in its proper position. From the looks of this, to start, I would suggest getting a couple of shorter bolts for the chain brackets!! They don't have to be that long to do their job. Also, you can usually bolt the bracket from the outside for a more solid mount. If the brackets are hitting the box face, move the LP bottle tray forward a bit to get the chain brackets to clear the battery box. Vertical chains are preferred, but if a small bit of angle is created by moving the brackets forward, it shouldn't be much, and wouldn't cause any bar/chain problems. If those chain brackets are not where you need them to be, double check for a better position with the LP tray removed temporarily. Only idea I have!!!

[Oregon Joe]

Originally Posted by R.B

I know a few here have the (4) GC-2 century plastics box that the battery tray option is made for. Which hitch do you have? The brackets for the one I have stick out into the area made for the box to sit in.

I have the factory 4-battery tray and the Century Plastics box. Using an Equalizer brand hitch and there is no interference with the battery box.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/hitches

[brulaz]

Off topic, but I noticed those two vertical struts to the factory battery box holder.

Are those for a locking bar across the top of the box? If so, Nice!

Also I too use an Equal-I-Zer hitch with the Century box for 4 GC2s, but not with the factory holder

[60sumtin]

The battery tray is the biggest gripe I have about our trailer. The tongue is too short to allow larger or additional batteries. As such I can only install two group 24s. I can live with it but more room would have been nice.

[ktn1966]

Why don't you cut the bolts down". The length of the bolt to hold the saddle in place doesn't need to be that long, they seem to just be made that way.

[R.B]

Originally Posted by Tuquala

Either I can't see the interference, or can't without the box in the pic in its proper position. From the looks of this, to start, I would suggest getting a couple of shorter bolts for the chain brackets!! They don't have to be that long to do their job. Also, you can usually bolt the bracket from the outside for a more solid mount. If the brackets are hitting the box face, move the LP bottle tray forward a bit to get the chain brackets to clear the battery box. Vertical chains are preferred, but if a small bit of angle is created by moving the brackets forward, it shouldn't be much, and wouldn't cause any bar/chain problems. If those chain brackets are not where you need them to be, double check for a better position with the LP tray removed temporarily. Only idea I have!!!

It's hard to show it adequately in photos -- basically, the bracket sticks about 3/4-1" into the space where the battery box needs to sit. The bolt does too, but like you suggested, that can be shortened.

Originally Posted by brulaz

Off topic, but I noticed those two vertical struts to the factory battery box holder.

Are those for a locking bar across the top of the box? If so, Nice!

Yeah, it's a modified version of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Thanks for the rest of the replies. I'm pursuing a few routes to see what will work best:

1. Adding spacers below the battery box to get it lifted over the tray's strap brackets and bolt it down that way. This makes the hitch brackets a non-issue

2. Emailed the manufacturer of my hitch to see if they have a smaller bracket or one of a shape that won't interfere.

3. Adding spacers below the propane tray (I don't really have room to shift it forward) so I can move the hitch bracket forward and under it.

If none of those work, I'll look into a different hitch. That's my last option since it's by far the most expensive.

[cruzbill]

Take the trailer to a local hitch shop / welder. They can make space out of nothing!

[Tuquala]

What hitch are you using?? The chain brackets look like Reese!! Are you using the DualCam system?? If so, you DO NOT have to have the chains vertical!! The chains only hold up the cam arms, and do not move forward or backward. Still think you may fit the brackets by moving the LP tank base forward a bit. But I'm not there looking at in person!! Hope you can work it out.

If Reese, those brackets are the newest style, and are wider than earlier ones. Either style can be bolted to the frame from the outside, you will still need the inside "pinch" bolt. I am using the early style with 1200# bars and no bending or twisting. Just another thought. I think I have a pair of each bracket, and will compare and measure them as to mounting width!!

[R.B]

Originally Posted by Tuquala

What hitch are you using?? The chain brackets look like Reese!! Are you using the DualCam system?? If so, you DO NOT have to have the chains vertical!! The chains only hold up the cam arms, and do not move forward or backward. Still think you may fit the brackets by moving the LP tank base forward a bit. But I'm not there looking at in person!! Hope you can work it out.

If Reese, those brackets are the newest style, and are wider than earlier ones. Either style can be bolted to the frame from the outside, you will still need the inside "pinch" bolt. I am using the early style with 1200# bars and no bending or twisting. Just another thought. I think I have a pair of each bracket, and will compare and measure them as to mounting width!!

It's an Eaz-Lift (Camco makes it). It's a standard round bar WDH with friction anti-sway. I've never been super happy with it, but I do have a system figured out to get it hooked up fairly quickly.

If I can move the propane tanks at all, I'll definitely give that a shot. There isn't much slack on the gas line or space between the tanks and the jack, though.

[Tuquala]

Here are pics of 2 different chain brackets. Both are from Reese/DrawTite, but may be a generic sourced item.

Early style left pic, later (reinforced) style right pic. The early doesn't stick into the inside as much as the later ones. You can see that the later is much wider at the outside of frame, close to the same on the inside. My son is using the later ones on his 270CIS, and has to remove the new style bottle cover to hook up bars. Just thought I'd show you a bracket that may work better and provide minimum clearance problems??!!

[keymastr]

Well, since that is an old-school hitch and you mentioned not being super happy with it you might get an Equa-lizer. Cost is about $500 and it will work with the box and tanks where they are.

Until then you might put a metal plate behind the outside of the bracket you are using now,(opposite side from the bolt, between the bracket and frame rail). That would take up the slack and move the whole bracket towards the outside of the frame rail. Might just be enough room.

[R.B]

I was able to squeeze out just enough space by moving the propane tray forward (there is literally no room left to move it forward any further or the cover will not fit due to the tongue jack). I re-drilled the tray rather than add additional holes to the frame, then shifted the hangers forward.

Thanks for the feedback and ideas.

[Oregon Joe]

Originally Posted by R.B

I was able to squeeze out just enough space by moving the propane tray forward (there is literally no room left to move it forward any further or the cover will not fit due to the tongue jack). I re-drilled the tray rather than add additional holes to the frame, then shifted the hangers forward.

Thanks for the feedback and ideas.

Very nice! And much more secure than what I used for the box.