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08-22-2017, 06:22 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Spokane, Washington
Posts: 17
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Weight distributing hitches
Hi All!
We purchased a EAZ Lift Weight Distribution Hitch for our our Timber Ridge 25RDS. It works well and it's pretty beefy, but it's very difficult to attach the spring bars and we need to use a bottle jack on each side to attach it each time. We are pretty much done with the difficulty of this one.
Can anyone here recommend an easy and excellent Weight Distribution Hitch for us to purchase? Thank you! Amy
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08-22-2017, 07:01 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Gig Harbor, Wa.
Posts: 135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycampin
Hi All!
We purchased a EAZ Lift Weight Distribution Hitch for our our Timber Ridge 25RDS. It works well and it's pretty beefy, but it's very difficult to attach the spring bars and we need to use a bottle jack on each side to attach it each time. We are pretty much done with the difficulty of this one.
Can anyone here recommend an easy and excellent Weight Distribution Hitch for us to purchase? Thank you! Amy
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We use an older chain style Ezylift with our Creekside. Goes on fine with a cheater bar. I also lift the rear of the truck a couple of inches with the tongue jack.
__________________
2021 Timber Ridge 22FQS
2019 F150 King Ranch Ecoboost
Puget Sound, Wa.
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08-22-2017, 07:17 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 2,807
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What Infowars said. I assume you got the cheater bar to lift the pivot? Looks like an 18" to 24" pipe. After putting the hitch on the ball and closing the latch, lift the trailer tongue and rear of vehicle with the jack to make it easier to close the pivot.
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08-22-2017, 07:26 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2,582
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It sounds like you have the same EAZ Lift I have. As mentioned, once hitched to the ball use the trailer's front jack to lift the truck up a couple inches or so and the chains should be quite easy to put on.
Also, if you don't have a power jack I highly recommend getting one as it makes the task so much quicker and easier - especially when its raining. I hate getting wet in my old age. I'm wrinkled enough.
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08-22-2017, 07:43 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: NorthEastern Oregon
Posts: 1,111
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I have the EZLift as well, and as others have said, it shouldn't be difficult to get the bars in place. Drop the trailer onto the ball, secure the hitch to the ball, and use the tongue jack to raise the tongue (and the back of the truck) until the bars slide right on. Secure the bars and lower the tongue. I also have the manual "cheater bar" to force the bars into place but have never had to use the cheater.
__________________
2013 Wind River 280RLS, 200W Solar
2013 Ram 2500 Laramie Cummins 4x4
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08-22-2017, 11:26 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,539
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I have the Equalizer 4 point hitch and never need the cheater bar. Just lift the back of the truck with the tongue jack and the arms swing right into position.
__________________
2020 F28 RKS Titanium
2017 Creekside 23 RBS Sold
2016 F250 Super Crew XLT Overworked
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08-23-2017, 12:13 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: La Verne, Calif
Posts: 3,649
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Yes, jack it up. I have also taken a small round file and files a notch on the hook part where the chain goes and it helps hold it in place while I pivot it into position with the bar. Love that big bang sound as the chains and bars go into position.
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08-23-2017, 08:45 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,657
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After you drop the coupler on the WD ball and latch it, you have to raise both the rear of the tow vehicle and the TT tongue until the spring bars are latch-able. This may be 3-4" or in some cases 5-6". Once you get the ends of the spring bars up high enough you can then use the cheater bar to hook the chains. Unhitching is basically in reverse. Raise the TT tongue up until the spring bars are movable with you hand. Then grab the cheater bar and release the chains.
Also if you're not raising the tongue up and are just attaching the spring bars then you're not getting enough tension on them. You're also not transferring enough weight back to the front of the tow vehicle.
Try reading about hitching. Here's a video on how to setup your WDH and truck.
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08-23-2017, 10:45 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2,582
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Agree with the hitch might needing some fine tuning. If you don't have the setup manual that came with your hitch here's a PDF version for you to look at. If the above manual is not the right one then go to the EAZ Lift site and download the one applicable to what you have.
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09-05-2017, 10:50 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Spokane, Washington
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cumminsfan
After you drop the coupler on the WD ball and latch it, you have to raise both the rear of the tow vehicle and the TT tongue until the spring bars are latch-able. This may be 3-4" or in some cases 5-6". Once you get the ends of the spring bars up high enough you can then use the cheater bar to hook the chains. Unhitching is basically in reverse. Raise the TT tongue up until the spring bars are movable with you hand. Then grab the cheater bar and release the chains.
Also if you're not raising the tongue up and are just attaching the spring bars then you're not getting enough tension on them. You're also not transferring enough weight back to the front of the tow vehicle.
Try reading about hitching. Here's a video on how to setup your WDH and truck.
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Very helpful! Thanks!
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