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Old 06-11-2018, 10:36 AM   #29
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MoInfo

Those two switches in the back for the AC.

I suspect similar to those in Dad's old Allegro. Back then, the normal campground service was only 30amps AC (unlike today where dual 50 amp service is frequently available) and unable to support two air conditioners at the same time. The switches allowed either to be run on "shore" power. If on the genset, both could be run, AND if on shore power with the genset running, one could be powered from shore while the other was powered by the onboard genset. I suspect that is what those two switched provide. Please anyone, jump in with amplifying corrections!

As can be seen, parking in the northern Florida woods for long periods is NOT recommended!
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Old 06-11-2018, 10:58 AM   #30
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Puzzlement!

A month ago the Millennium Tortoise threw a fan belt! Using the coach batteries, I was able to get home without the alternator and replaced the front serpentine belt. Ran fine but a week later nothing, would not start, not a pop nor whimper though cranked fine. I suspected an ignition problem but a spark plug connected to one of the plug wires refuted that diagnosis, but I smelled fuel! Could find no drips underneath, nor fuel on top so crawled under for a look. Noted evidence of evaporated fuel on frame under the back left corner of the "Dog House opening" over the engine. Found that some critter had nibbled on the rubber fuel line, cutting it!!! Spliced In a short bit of fuel line and it started right up!!

If this was the fuel supply line, why wasn't it spraying fuel when I turned the key on? If it was the fuel return line, why did this prevent starting???

This was where the metal (return?) line was joined with a hose clamp to a rubber line back to the tank (rather than the hard line and "O" ring junction used by Ford). I've also noted that in the back, over the tank, the hard fuel lines have been extended using rubber fuel line and hose clamps as well, even the pressurized supply line. I can see where those lines too have tooth marks which may be why my genset doesn't start.
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Old 06-11-2018, 11:21 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by JLadenburg View Post
Got this 1990 free, but have little idea what I am doing. Filled the water tank, how do I fill the hot water heater? I have to get someone to check the propane system first. How do I drain the water tank to flush it? How about the other tanks? Been sitting empty for 10 years.
A LOT like mine, appears to have the same floor plan as well. What model is yours?
My "Name Plate", by the driver's left foot, does not give a model but says the chassis was mfg 8-89 while the coach was mfg 12-89. It also gives weights (16000#) and a tire size of LT 235/85 R16 120 which is what is on all six wheels.

Water tank drain on mine is a small petcock on the left side below the fresh tank fill. There are also two water drain "pull" valves on the floor inside the water heater compartment (under the cedar closet) inside the coach. On the side of the heater are two valves with a bypass line between. When the handles are pointed towards each other, the heater is bypassed. move both to the other position to fill and use the heater. In the outside water heater compartment, you will find the burner, pilot, controls and a white plastic (on mine anyway) heater drain plug used for winterization.

I have a copy of the Ford Chassis Electrical wiring diagrams as well as the Ford Chassis manual (an 8x11 soft cover). The first shows all the Ford wiring as well as switches, connectors, and some troubleshooting steps for many of the truck based vehicles from Bronco through super duty.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:41 AM   #32
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yes same as mine
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Old 07-16-2018, 07:36 PM   #33
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I really like your style. I have had my 1990 Airex for 3 years. Fuel sender failed when I brought it, fuel pump failed this year. Made a hidden access panel in hall floor to change. Fuel sender is recessed in top of tank and prone to collecting gravel and sand.
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Old 07-17-2018, 03:54 PM   #34
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good info thank you. i been having a great time too this summer.
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Old 07-18-2018, 12:58 PM   #35
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Thanks for all the info, Larry. All useful. Got it all working now. Put in a Garmin GPS and back up camera too. Few little things left, but looking good. Will hit the road soon. By the way, I have the original Rexall manual which is a 3 ring binder.
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:17 PM   #36
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My 1990 Airex. Got everything up and working except the generator which I have not had anyone look at yet. Mine is a Onan Emerald I GenSet, is that original? Also, I was thinking of putting in three point seat belts or putting in a should belt, anyone do that on an old Airex, and how?
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Old 07-22-2018, 12:20 AM   #37
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i have the same one. got mine running great now. once you get it going make sure a run it a lot to stretch it's legs
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Old 07-27-2018, 08:26 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry_too View Post
Those two switches in the back for the AC.

I suspect similar to those in Dad's old Allegro. Back then, the normal campground service was only 30amps AC (unlike today where dual 50 amp service is frequently available) and unable to support two air conditioners at the same time. The switches allowed either to be run on "shore" power. If on the genset, both could be run, AND if on shore power with the genset running, one could be powered from shore while the other was powered by the onboard genset. I suspect that is what those two switched provide. Please anyone, jump in with amplifying corrections!

As can be seen, parking in the northern Florida woods for long periods is NOT recommended!
I cannot run both while on genset. Would be nice.
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Old 09-08-2018, 02:04 PM   #39
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i got tired of my venting stuck on defrost so i fixed it. that means i have to find the vacuum leak i started at the air reservoir found the the air intake from manifold was not hooked up. so now i have vacuum. still not fixed had to find the leak turns out the white tube for fresh air door line was rotted all the way to the hvac control box. rerouted a new line and bam it all works yea
not sure why my photos and side ways
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Old 09-08-2018, 02:17 PM   #40
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so after all that i still had a bit of heat flowing out the vents. so i was checking the cable activated temp leaver found the shut off was not closing all the way. ordered a new one. simple yea. but no i cracked the heater core trying to remove the hose
so i had to bypass the heater and it blows cool air now lol. next on the list is a new core not going to be fun.
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Old 09-09-2018, 03:59 PM   #41
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6 screws on top 2 on bottom then out the wheel well tada. not as easy as it sounds.
now to find a repair shop to get this thing welded
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Old 11-05-2018, 12:49 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLadenburg View Post
Got this 1990 free, but have little idea what I am doing. Filled the water tank, how do I fill the hot water heater? I have to get someone to check the propane system first. How do I drain the water tank to flush it? How about the other tanks? Been sitting empty for 10 years.
Looks exactly like mine... same floor plan as well.

The hot water heater fills from the cold system. When you are connected to shore water, or have the 12v pump on, open a hot water faucet to allow the water pressure to push any air out of the hot system.

Before doing so, though, recommend that you first drain the hot tank and flush out the crap that will have accumulated in it. To do so take out the plug on the outside of the RV behind the vent panel for the heater on the passenger side. The sacrificial anode is on the inside of that plug. It will almost certainly need to be renewed.

To drain the cold tank (under the bed) the valve is on the lower outside of the RV, drivers side.
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