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Old 08-14-2007, 02:29 AM   #1
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Please excuse me for not doing a search first, but I'm using my cell phone for a modem, and it's pretty slow.

Last Saturday, I purchased a 2001 Starcraft Lone Star. It is in near new condition, but the guy told me before hand that it was blowing the fuse. It blows it as soon as you plug in the 110V power and will blow it if changed while plugged in. With the fuse blown it will not recharge the on-board battery.

Before I spend the $$$ on a new converter, I would like to know if someone has had this problem or get some trouble shooting tips.

Thanks in Advance,
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Old 08-14-2007, 02:29 AM   #2
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Please excuse me for not doing a search first, but I'm using my cell phone for a modem, and it's pretty slow.

Last Saturday, I purchased a 2001 Starcraft Lone Star. It is in near new condition, but the guy told me before hand that it was blowing the fuse. It blows it as soon as you plug in the 110V power and will blow it if changed while plugged in. With the fuse blown it will not recharge the on-board battery.

Before I spend the $$$ on a new converter, I would like to know if someone has had this problem or get some trouble shooting tips.

Thanks in Advance,
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Old 08-14-2007, 06:35 AM   #3
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I would start with asking if the previous owner did or have any work done that provoked the situation(shorted) or if it just started on its own (failure). Also double check to see that the 20amp fuse is correct. Mine takes a 30amp fuse. Good Luck
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:40 AM   #4
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Thanks for the reply.

I've been doing a little reading, and have found out that there is an internal AGC 12 amp fuse inside the case. As soon as I can convince my self to get out in the heat, I'll check that next. Also, the book calls for a 20 amp fuse.

The PO said he had no idea what caused the problem. I'm wondering if he shorted something when he recently put a new Optima gel cell in it.
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:02 PM   #5
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Well, the fuse was good.

I guess it's time to quit fooling around and order a new one. I'm thinking that I will go ahead and get a 30amp instead of a 20. Any reccomendations on where to order from?

Thanks,
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Old 08-14-2007, 06:47 PM   #6
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Where is this fuse and is it AC or DC.

Tom
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:21 PM   #7
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The fuse was a DC, 12amp glass fuse with a screw on cap. It was located behind the plate around the two main breakers. You have to pop the breakers out to unscrew the fuse cap.
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:54 AM   #8
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I was asking about the 20 amp fuse that is blowing. Is it on the AC side or the DC side of the converter?

Tom
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:12 AM   #9
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Sorry about that..........

It's the 12v fuse.
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Old 08-15-2007, 11:05 AM   #10
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If you can I would disconnect the postive lead at or as close to the converter as you can. Then see if the fuse blows. If the 20 amp fuse is not on or near the converter then I would the trouble is not the converter but wire or battery.

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Old 08-15-2007, 11:47 AM   #11
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Please pardon me, but I'm not sure what you are saying. The 20amp, 12v, fuse that is blowing in on the front panel of the converter. The red lead from the + side of the battery goes to a relay, which I have disconnected and reconnected. The white lead goes from the - side of the battery to the ground bundle connected to the converter. The battery is a near new Optima Red Top. I don't have a spare battery, but will try to find one to check it out.

Thanks,
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Old 08-15-2007, 01:59 PM   #12
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What is the make and model of the converter?
Have you tried to disconnect the red + lead at the battery and plug up the 110v and see if the lights would work?

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Old 08-15-2007, 02:17 PM   #13
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It's the Elixir Centurion CS2000, which I understand is a POS.

As soon as I get a little shade and the temp drops below 100*, I'm going back out and try the battery disconnect. First, I'll try the fuse after the battery is disconnected, then I'll try the lights.

Thanks for your help,
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Old 08-15-2007, 06:42 PM   #14
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Sometimes, it's not hard to be a dummy.

I went out in the sweltering heat to disconnect the battery. Of course, it's inside the camper and I had replaced the cover and had to undo the screws that hold it in place. Removed the battery box vent, removed the hold down screws and removed the cover. Plugged the fuse in and it did not blow.....plugged in the 110, and the fuse was OK, but the lights didn't work.....hmmm, reconnected the battery, and the fuse blew. The 110 worked, because the AC would come on. I went ahead and buttoned everything up and had decided the converter was bad. Battened down the hatches and popped a cold one. Now, the dummy part....while I was doing all of this, I didn't raise the top, which meant the cut off switch was engaged! So, after all of this, all I really know is that the air will work with the top down. At least that info could come in handy.

I went ahead and ordered a new converter from American Direct. It may not have been the best choice, but I got the CS3000XL. I was tempted to get the Parallax, but the CS3000XL will at least fit in the same cut out and not be too hard to hook up.

I am determined to run the test correctly before I install the new one. Since the temps are suppose to be back down to the 90's, that should not be too much of a challenge.
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