Atwood jacks and the remote.

[CyberVet65]

I have had it! I went through four months of emails and stuff and Atwood finally stepped up to the plate and replaced everything. I mean the remote, the circut board and the switch.
Well, I got it installed today and the same dang thing is going on. I can't get the jacks to move using the remote.
Sooooo. I am going to find a way to hardwire these things just to get them to work!
Any suggestions?
Chet

[CyberVet65]

I have had it! I went through four months of emails and stuff and Atwood finally stepped up to the plate and replaced everything. I mean the remote, the circut board and the switch.
Well, I got it installed today and the same dang thing is going on. I can't get the jacks to move using the remote.
Sooooo. I am going to find a way to hardwire these things just to get them to work!
Any suggestions?
Chet

[Brent Dowell]

Well,

My Stablelift unit which has three jacks, has one DPCO (Double pole center off) switch per each jack mounted in a weather resistant box on the side of the unit.

I've got it wired up quite simply so that if you flip all three switches up, the camper goes up.

Flip all three switches down, the camper goes down.

Works great!

[CyberVet65]

Brent, did you run the wiring internally and if you ran it inside how did you snake it through the camper?
I am already thinking of a way to do the wire runs. I just may do like you did and mount a lockable box with four switches inside. I think I am going to mount it inside where the battery box is located. That way it is a short run to the main power and a short add to the existing wires at the circuit board.
Chet

[Brent Dowell]

I installed the stable lift myself, which required a moderate amount of camper dismantling

Pretty much, the lock box is mounted on the drivers side, up towards the front. Since I had the heater/fridge removed for installation, it was really easy to run some heavy guage wire back to the batter box for the connections.

I'd imagine you could do the same thing with a fish tape and less dismantling.

Your plan sounds workable to me, but I'm not an electrician.

The only other thing to consider is that with a 4 jack system, It might be difficult to ascertain if all the jacks are operating equally if you can't roam around like when you have the remote. And, with the 4 jack system, using a remote helps to keep you out of the danger zone should something go wrong during the loading/unloading.

I'm guessing you've tried everything with the remote, but I'm wondering, is it a wired remote or a wireless? If it's wired, could it simply be something with the wiring between the remote and the camper? I know on my old happijac system, if the plugs didn't go in just right, things wouldn't work. Just wondering.

[CyberVet65]

It is a wireless remote. It worked exactly three times since I have owned it, I am just sick and tired of messing with it, "will it work this time or not".
Since I am selling the rig I want them to work. And I want them to work every time. So I am going to hardwire the things. Put a 4 switch panel inside the battery box. That means a short run to power and the ground. Short run to where the wires are terminated presently. Keep it short and simple.
Chet

[CyberVet65]

Well, after shopping for DPDTCO switches and thinking about the wire runs that I would have to do;;;;;I went out to the RV and just for grins hooked up a battery charger to the battery. I was at full charge. So I left the chager in place and got the remote (this time I reomoved the plastic from the battery) and Dang! It worked! Life is good. I am going to leave the charger on the battery overnite and see if it will hold a charge. I suspect that is my primary culprit. It looks good on the meter but when a load is applied it dies.
So there! Life is good!