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Old 08-01-2015, 10:55 AM   #15
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Here is my latest wiring. Added connector on solar panel to 2030. Using inverter for existing AC circuits.
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Old 08-01-2015, 06:27 PM   #16
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a couple more questions...and observations.
first off lance ran about 8' of 12 gauge romex from the end of my external 10/3 gauge AC cable to the old converter power station. I had to buy 15' of 10/3 for 21$ at HD.. maybe lowes sells it by the foot.
I am going to use 2 20 amp breakers in my new sub box and use 12/3 wires from these breakers on. It is currently 12 going to the roof AC unit with a 20 a breaker.... I know the inverter says to put a 30a breaker in but I chose 20 based on what you said.
I appreaciate all info.
I tried to find some #2 wire to use as a ground for the DC side of the inverter. I ordered my + & - custom cables from don rowe and they are very nice for a good price.
I could order a ground one but I am choosing to just buy a #4 starter cable? I will run it only about 2'.
Here is where my question comes up. Where is a good ground for this DC circuit? Currently I see where the battery neg is tied to the metal edge inside the battery box with a #8 or so and then the copper gas line is tied to some corner metal tab outside the camper with two # 12 or so wires? Is it crazy for me to clamp the #4 ground wire to this 1/2" copper gas line?
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:43 PM   #17
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So many questions, and hopefully answers.

First off all, your revised schematic should work. By splitting the AC off onto its own circuit you can reduce the size of the wire to the inverter. Just be sure to set the programming on the inverter to whatever the size of the breaker is that you're using to feed it.

Second, you can feed the GFCI via the non-GFCI output on the inverter. Just be aware that there is a LINE and a LOAD side on the GFCI in case there are any other receptacles or equipment fed from it.

You could use an old fashioned ground strap instead of the starter cable. There is no DC ground since the camper likely doesn't have an exposed frame to attach it to, unlike a trailer. Jumper the negative terminal at the inverter to the case of the inverter and you should be fine. Don't connect to the gas line!!! A fault could burn through it and create some real excitement.

The solenoid will work for isolation purposes, but is likely to cause problems with the solar charging setup. The charge controller will be set to a higher voltage than the battery and regulator in the vehicle, which means that the vehicle will draw down the voltage in the camper. You could put a bypass switch so that you could connect the vehicle system in case of the need to charge either the camper battery of the vehicle in an emergency.
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:48 AM   #18
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My solar panel is 100 w and says max power point current is 5.56a. I am trying to plan for maybe two panels but most likely one will be all I need on this old small camper. My wire run from the PV(s) to the controller will be 12'.
So I am thinking #10 wire is plenty big enough? and also a 20 amp fuse between the controller and battery + will be fine. The solar panel says fuse of 10 amps. OR do I install a 10 amp fuse now and a 20 A if and when I expand?

would this fuse work? It would mean a butt connection?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PACK-10-GA...id=p5731.m3795
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Old 08-03-2015, 01:02 PM   #19
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I think I will order this fuse for between the solar controller and battery and then have powerpole connectors on each side of the controller.
ATC Style Fuse Holder 10 GA with Ring Terminals and Powerpoles [RGH-10] - $14.99
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:19 PM   #20
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Ok so I tore into the ac circuit today. I want to correct a fact. Lance did have 10 gauge all the way to the power box. I ran 12 gauge to the inverter so I guess I should only use a 15 a breaker? This should be enough for the inverter right? I don't see any place to set the inverter for 15, 20,30 amps. I guess it must be under the case?
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:26 AM   #21
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I read the manual more and read about the programming.
I will ask for programming settings in a future post as I am 4-5 days away from getting all the parts still.
I have a couple more questions.
First off I thought I ordered verbally from Donrowe a fuse disconnect for the positive inverter cable side. I even ordered my custom cables to hook up to where I was going to install this in the battery box. The one I received is just a breaker.
DonRowe.com: CB150 150A Circuit Breaker
I know a 125A instead of 150A was suggested in avery early post.
Question? #1
Will this part work as a 120 amp breaker/disconnect for the positive 12 cable?
Resettable Circuit Breaker Cooper Bussmann

There are 2 AC out ports on the inverter as well as the front plug in outlet. The manual says that the GFCI AC port #2 AC output is limited to 15 A. As I was in the old AC power box I noticed that the outside outlet isn't on the GFCI circuit. But the other two are. The manual says if you hook up to port
#1 non GFCI it can by-pass the full 30 A. I only ran 12 gauge wire and installed a 20 amp breaker to the input ( Manual says 30A) I feel like I should reduce this to 15 A. I should never need more than 15 A by-pass as the AC is separate. I tied the old AC circuit in without using the original 15 A breaker As I understand the inverter provides this.

?'s for topic #2
Is it correct to hook up to Port #2 the 15 A GFCI output? is it ok to run a GFCI inverter output to a GFCI circuit?
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Old 08-08-2015, 01:53 AM   #22
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RE Wire Size

The #10 copper wire will be sufficient. See the attached files for the actual calculations. As a rule, in solar design there is a shoot for 1% and settle for 2% philosophy when dealing with voltage drop, which is a bit more stringent than standard building designs.

The fuse holders with the PowerPole connectors should work. I'd go with 10A fuses to stay within the backfeed rating of the module.
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Old 08-08-2015, 02:02 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkski View Post
I read the manual more and read about the programming.
I will ask for programming settings in a future post as I am 4-5 days away from getting all the parts still.
I have a couple more questions.
First off I thought I ordered verbally from Donrowe a fuse disconnect for the positive inverter cable side. I even ordered my custom cables to hook up to where I was going to install this in the battery box. The one I received is just a breaker.
DonRowe.com: CB150 150A Circuit Breaker
I know a 125A instead of 150A was suggested in avery early post.
Question? #1
Will this part work as a 120 amp breaker/disconnect for the positive 12 cable?
Resettable Circuit Breaker Cooper Bussmann

Yes, it should work.

There are 2 AC out ports on the inverter as well as the front plug in outlet. The manual says that the GFCI AC port #2 AC output is limited to 15 A. As I was in the old AC power box I noticed that the outside outlet isn't on the GFCI circuit. But the other two are. The manual says if you hook up to port
#1 non GFCI it can by-pass the full 30 A. I only ran 12 gauge wire and installed a 20 amp breaker to the input ( Manual says 30A) I feel like I should reduce this to 15 A. I should never need more than 15 A by-pass as the AC is separate. I tied the old AC circuit in without using the original 15 A breaker As I understand the inverter provides this.

The reason that you are limited to 15A on the #2 port is that they are going through the internal 15A GFCI receptacle. The non-GFCI port doesn't have the same limitations. If I recall from reading the manual, you can program the inverter for any level of current between 5 and 30A. I'd set it to 20A since it corresponds to the breaker and 12AWG wire size.

?'s for topic #2
Is it correct to hook up to Port #2 the 15 A GFCI output? is it ok to run a GFCI inverter output to a GFCI circuit?
That should be fine.
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Old 08-08-2015, 02:05 AM   #24
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One that resettable breaker, I'd check to be sure that it can be manually operated as a disconnect. It shows the manual reset, but can it be turned off manually?
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Old 08-08-2015, 11:31 PM   #25
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Yes, pushing the red button pops out the reset lever. I will test it.
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Old 08-10-2015, 05:10 PM   #26
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Electrical checkout procedure.
I'm getting close to completion of this system.

Much more work, time, parts, thus dollars than planned on. The idea that I could transfer this system to a new RV is dead. I'm worried that the system cost about as much as blue book value. I guess I just need to keep it for 5 years and use it a lot

Anyway I of course think I hooked up everything right but I just get in there and use my head as I am wiring. I have had time to contemplate most wiring steps.
I still need to mount and hook up the inverter but all wires are there.
I will look at each leg of my pv to battery connections. I have double checked the solar +/- to the 2030 charge controller and just ran wires to battery compartment. Neg to shunt and positive to my old 30 a breaker. Both sides of the 2030 have Anderson powerpoles. I have a 15 a fuse installed on +&- between Panel and 2030. The Battery monitor was already up and running.
Old DC system is still hooked up the same just now the converter is in the inverter and comes in from the battery side. A new breaker box takes shore AC and has a 15 amp breaker to inverter and 20 a to air con.
Inverter AC in needs to make sure it's on in or it will smoke but label is good. Then. Inverter AC output will go to the old distribution center and I used it like a junction box and all ac outlets are hooked up no breaker there. Running the PV wires down the refer vent I decided the one ac wire not on gfci goes to the fridge. No one has answered my question if it's ok to use the inverter GFCI AC out and still have my original Outlet GFCI? Using that tap on the inverter limits the current to 15 amp rather than the full 30 amp bypass possible.
I have the temp sensor in the battery box , remote panel for the inverter mounted via phone cable. Monitor and 2030 controller have the phone line interconnect and polarity looked right on my cable.
I am wondering what my startup procedure should be?
I will read all the instructions once more as it's been awhile since I read the startup if there is any.

Thanks
Randy in Sandy Utah.
Hoppy IPA keeps the doc away

A few pics. Yes I crammed so much in the battery box. Kinda proud of this even though it may look crowded. It has the old DC 30 amp fuse far left, 120 amp fuse disconnect center, 100 ohm shunt right side. That light pencil line on the back wall of the battery box is how tall my 31 case battery is. The only other choice choice was more lugs and stuff under the sink area right behind the Battery box. The original battery box Ares was black positive and white negative. I tried to convert it to red + and black but I added one black #4 jumper from the old fuse block to the center breaker disconnect. And the old black DC is black on left side going to old 30 amp fuse.
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Old 08-12-2015, 03:18 PM   #27
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I have finished and it seems like I did ok. Solar panel is providing power.
Inverter provides AC when ON.

Haven't tested shore power but did test polarity before hooking to inverter AC in.
Only hickup I had that I can't understand is that only 3 of the 8 DC circuits worked at first. I thought the pcb board +/- lugs would provide +12 v to all circuits but 5 were powered via a relay in the old converter. It looked like the relay was a off/on/off and a coil actuated it. I'm thinking it blinked those circuits off when going to shore power for some reason??

I have gone into advanced trimetric 2030 programming and set my battery size and a few things. I'm not sure if I got all the settings right.

P1= 14.8charged set point V
P2=2%
P3=110 ahr my crown is 115
P4=A
P5 & P6Hi =off
P8=15.9 max allowed charger V
P10=94% efficiency
P11= shl 100 S shunt
P14=0.0??? Max time in absorb before float
P15=15.9 max v allowed during finish
P16=13.5 float voltage
P20=10. % overcharge before float
P21=3 % amps limited during finish
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Old 08-30-2015, 12:04 AM   #28
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System works well. Coffee maker draws 90 amps. Sucks up 7% of my 120 ahr. For 4 cups. System recharged from 88% to 100% by 1 pm the other day. Sunrise at 7 am.
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