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Old 12-16-2004, 04:33 PM   #15
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Graywolf, thankyou are you happy with them? And how ply are they? Did you need new wheels or can use stock ones? Scotty.
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Old 12-16-2004, 04:40 PM   #16
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dmann12, thanks for reply. I agree that 3100 is way better than 40+K for new and still have to rig it up! I just had over $600 work done to the 2000 front end and had a caliper freeze up on way to work tonight. (new cal. that was replaced 3 weeks ago!) called dealer and tells me to bring in morning and will look at. I said get your _ss here with a tow truck and call me in morning! Truck is at the shop now. They sent a friend of my daughter to get it knowing I wouldn't go off on him. I dont drive the truck every day and stuff tends to stick i have been trying to save it for hauling boat +camper but seems that I'm ****** if I do and ****** if I dont. Have a great Christmas! Scotty.
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Old 12-18-2004, 06:46 AM   #17
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Dave Pelletier:
Weight ratings are nice, but aren't everything. When given the choice, stick with E's. Their higher air pressure (80psi compared to 65) make a noticeable difference in sway control.

Dave <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Didn't have the choice. The ride is better than the smaller E rated BFG's I had before, course that was on a 3/4 ton Ford and now I have a 1 ton Chevy instead...That might explain it.
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Old 12-20-2004, 07:43 AM   #18
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Sorry for the delay in the reply. The 305-70-16's are 33" in diameter. I had to add a 1.5" leveling springs to the front end. I am running factory styled mud flaps. They had to be trimmed on the upper inside corner slightly. They will not fit on the factory wheels. I went with 16X8's. These particular tires are rated 3550# at max inflation.Hope this helps.
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Old 12-20-2004, 08:05 AM   #19
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FxrScotty,

1. To anwser your question "NO", no one makes E rated tires for stock wheels greater than 265's E.

2. If you want to go to a larger tire (greater than 265's), it now requires a wheel change. The important change is the width of the wheel 8" etc. This is so the alinement of the tire on the wheel to get a proper tire bead on the wheel. Failure to do this, could cause the tire to pop off the wheel (blow out).

3. I personnally went with BFG 285's x 16D with new wheels (4 years now, no sway) which will carry most loads and give a softer ride and off road (beach). The other benfit is that 285's x 16 and 235 x 16 have about the same Dia. so no speedometer correction needed. Further This has NO bearing on sway. Sway is controled by the shocks, air bags and sway bar. However, even 285 require a wheel change (width) as recomended by the manufacturer of the tire.

4. Last, when considing a change of this nature. You have to consider the clearence, I am not referring to the height of the tire but the width of the tire. The clearence I'm referring to is the front of the truck when turning the wheels. You may have to bring the bumper out with longer bolts and spacers for clearence (not a big deal).
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Old 12-20-2004, 11:30 AM   #20
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>

3. I personnally went with BFG 285's x 16D with new wheels (4 years now, no sway) which will carry most loads and give a softer ride and off road (beach). The other benfit is that 285's x 16 and 235 x 16 have about the same Dia. so no speedometer correction needed. Further This has NO bearing on sway. Sway is controled by the shocks, air bags and sway bar. . <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Wrong,

- 1) tire choice DEFINITELY affects sway. A taller tire, one with a softer sidewall, one with less air pressure (or any combination of the three) WILL increase sway. Do yourself a favor and take two identical trucks, one with stock size load range E tires aired up to 80 psi and one with load range D tires aired up to 65psi and give them both a shove sidways on the back end. Note the results.

- 2) There is no such thing as "no sway" all trucks have some sway.

All you have to do to prove my position is to load up your camper and take a short drive with 65psi in the tires and then do the same drive with 80 psi in the tires. I don't make this stuff up, its just physics. Yes, shocks and springs play a part in sway, but the tires do too. Air bags often increase sway by lifting the load off of the overloads or positioning the main spring pack in a softer part of its travel.
I suppose duallies aren't any more stable, either?

Do whatever turns your crank,
Dave
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Old 12-20-2004, 12:45 PM   #21
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I can assure all of you that going to a 19.5" rim and load range g tires definitely has a lot to do with sway. Although the tire is a bit larger in diameter, the sidewall is shorter, stronger and there is more air pressure.
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Old 12-20-2004, 01:05 PM   #22
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Hi Dave Pelletier

(tire choice DEFINITELY affects sway. A taller tire, one with a softer sidewall, one with less air pressure (or any combination of the three) WILL increase sway. Do yourself a favor and take two identical trucks, one with stock size load range E tires aired up to 80 psi and one with load range D tires aired up to 65psi and give them both a shove sidways on the back end. Note the results.)


1. 285X75R 16 are the same height of 235x75R 16, 285 or 235 = the width of the tire. 75 is the height. Therefore, the height of the tires are the same. 285's have wider foot print (its just physics) and safe per the manufacters load of over 3000 lbs per tire. This wider foot print distributes forces over a greater surface area.

2. With regard to tire pressure, 80 vs 65 psi. Mag trucks that can carry tons of stone have tire pressures of only 40 to 50 psi. Why, because the foot print of the tire can be feet across.

What does E and D mean, "E" tires are rated for 80 psi with 10 ply. "D" tires are rated for 65 psi with 8 ply. The alpha relates to tire pressure and the number of ply on the side wall. This (E) enable manufacturers to produce a narrower tire for a heavier load. This produce less fiction and a small engine can be used with higher fuel eff.

Its just physics, (duallies included) if your driving on a fiat road going around a curve. the physics that are encountered are the weight of the load and outside curve forces are compressing the spring directly over the axle. This compression is what we call sway (tilt). With single rear tires or duallies trucks install air bag to counter this force by stiffing up the spring and reduce sag. The air bag hinder the compression of the spring and thereby reducing the sway. The sway bar takes it a step further by transferring some these load forces to the opposite tire and spring. In the above, the tire are still sitting fiat on the ground and all tires have some compressions on the load side.

PS &gt;There is no such thing as "no sway" all trucks have some sway&lt; You should read my statement again. No where do I make that statment. I say the main cause of sway are the springs and is corrected with air bags, shocks, and sway bar.

&gt;load range D tires aired up to 65psi and give them both a shove sidways on the back end. Note the results.&lt; I have, about the same as a dually.
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Old 12-20-2004, 02:22 PM   #23
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Bobster,

There seems to be some confusion here. I am well aware of all of the physics involved.

1) Your wrong about how the tires are measured. A typical metric tire breaks down as follows;

- 285R75 16LT means 285 mm tread width; an ASPECT ratio of 75 (meaning that the tire sidewall is 75% of the treadwidth), 16 - meaning 16" rim and LT standing for light truck. A 285 75R16 tire is taller than a 235 75R16 tire. In fact your 285 75 will have a sidewall height of 214mm and a 235 75 will have a sidewall height of 176mm.


2) Mag trucks don't run on load range D tires or take corners on the highway at 70mph. Apples to Oranges, this analogy means nothing.

3) You said (and I quote) "..4 years and no sway". so I'm unsure what I missed in your post.I reiterate: all trucks have sway.

4) Keep trying my pushing on the rear end experiment until you get different results! I've done it several times and logic simply dictates that you WILL NOT have as much lateral stability as a stiffer tire with more air pressure. I won't even comment on the dually. You can't change the physics by wishing it so.

What can I say? Load range E tires offer more stability and sway control than equivalent D rated tires when thier both aired up to maximum settings. DRW trucks have more stability and sway control than SRW trucks for the exact same reasons.

Dave
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Old 12-20-2004, 03:04 PM   #24
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Try www.1010tires.com/tiretech.asp for a detailed description of metric tire sizing.


Dave
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Old 12-21-2004, 01:04 PM   #25
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Hey I didn't want to start a fued! Thanks to all that replied. I will give some thought to all the good info you all gave. I am trying to get best set up without buying new truck. I have beefed up the front and rear end with extra leifs and added overload springs. Rancho shocks. Truck sits little higher (maybe an inch) front end is level and ride is not bad empty. Rides and handles great loaded I see the new fords have increased the pay load a lot over the old trucks and you dont loose pay load with crewcab or deisel any more. i may have to look at them. merry Christmas. Scotty.
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Old 12-21-2004, 01:56 PM   #26
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Scotty,
No feud here. Just having a discussion . It sounds like you have a handle on the situation. Merry Christmas to you too.

Dave
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Old 01-07-2005, 05:25 PM   #27
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Toyo makes a E rated 285/75/18 tire. I think it is rated for 3750 pounds. Also Discount tire claims Pathfinder has a similar tire. From another forum I was told Michilin (sp) has a 305/70/16 e rated.

The only one I can vouch for is the Toyo - it is their M55 series.
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Old 01-07-2005, 05:28 PM   #28
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I meant to say the TOYO tire is 285/75/16(not 18)
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