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Old 01-13-2016, 01:54 PM   #29
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Just read your thread and didn't know if you figured out what to use under the windows to seal them. We're on our second camper since the late 70s, a '92 Caribou with wood frame structure that we bought in '93. I started using the rolls of putty type because they were cheaper, but for the last 10 or 15 years I've used the butyl type rolls which I think are a lot better. It comes in several thicknesses. I use plastic putty knives to remove the excess that squeezes out because they don't scratch the paint. Gel coat would be softer so I don't know how they would work with that. Applying it to a smooth surface will be much easier than the convoluted metal on our camper. I also used all stainless screws, but I don't know how your windows attach or what they attach to. It looks like you're doing a good job and will have a better than new camper when finished.

Thanks for posting this.

Steve
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:11 PM   #30
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I don't know if you use the luggage rack or not. We didn't and when I replaced the rubber roof with aluminum I left it off thinking that fewer holes would mean less chances for leaks in the future. We haven't missed it.

Steve
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:19 PM   #31
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I bought a roll from the local rv shop. Its what they re-seal everything with. I really thought that there would have been something newer/better. Those rolls are the same stuff used to seal early VW and Porsche front fenders

Our windows screw from the inside through the trim rings.

One of the reasons for replacing the gas lines besides being copper and 16 years old is so we can add a quick connect to attach our bbq and firepit.
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:21 PM   #32
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I am debating the luggage rack for the exact same reason. Less holes does mean less chance for water to get in. We have not used it yet, so most likely it will not go back on. Same with the tv antenna. Or if I do put it back I will upgrade to a digital version
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:45 PM   #33
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There are two different kinds of tape that comes in rolls, putty (the older kind), and butyl (a newer kind). IMHO the butyl is much better.

We didn't replace the TV antenna either.

Steve
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Old 01-14-2016, 10:15 AM   #34
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Looked up the difference and you are very correct. The butyl looks way better. Trying to source some light colored locally
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Old 01-17-2016, 11:50 AM   #35
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You may or may not find this information helpful, depending on when you seal the windows, door, etc., but I had a lot of trouble with the butyl tape sticking together in summer temps of high 90s and low 100s. I finally started keeping it in the freezer until I needed to use it which helped significantly.

Steve
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Old 01-17-2016, 12:45 PM   #36
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Great tip, I will keep that in the memory bank

Thanks
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Old 02-03-2016, 09:30 AM   #37
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A big Thank You to starcraft. My federal id sticker which was on the old siding was an issue. How do I legally identify my camper since it will have all new siding. I e-mailed Starcraft and they printed up a new one and had it in the mail the same day.

Thanks Starcraft that is great customer relations
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:16 PM   #38
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Just a quick update. Things are progressing pretty good. The left side is now covered. The glass is in temporarily to hold panels while the glue sets. They all come out and are getting a good cleaning. I found a product called "30 seconds" from a company in British Columbia. I have used it on wood siding to remove mold and mildew before and it works the best out of anything I have ever tried. I did one of the smaller windows quickly with it and it seems to work great at removing that mold that forms on the white rubber/plastic. Not sure how it would react with camper siding as I am using it with the windows out.

I picked up the new underlay for my roof project and have ordered material for it as well.

Our local rv shop is helping out tremendously with being able to source me all new covers, plates and everything else fastened to the exterior. At this point in I might as well just replace everything with new components.

Measured for the vinyl graphics last Saturday, its all up to my buddy Wally now. I have the utmost of confidence

I guess it wasn't a quick message after all! Oopppps

Enjoy
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:55 AM   #39
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I just looked back over your thread and had to chuckle at your bend brake, it looks like something out of an aircraft home builders book/manual. Good idea! I had the shop where I bought the aluminum do mine.

When I did the roof on mine I bought enough aluminum to reach from under the front overhang to the back of the camper. I did this because one of the major leaks was at the seam where the aluminum nose cap joined the rubber roof and the camper was almost new. That joint was eliminated. I think you're beyond that now, but I thought I'd pass on the information anyway. That joint could be a place to keep an eye on.

My congratulations on a difficult project well done!

Steve
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:02 PM   #40
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You are correct about that seam. The previous owner attempted to fix it with gallons of sealant. There was infiltration there even with all that sealant. I am hoping that the new roof and metal provide a better seal.

And thanks for the kind words, its been a experience to say the least
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Old 02-26-2016, 03:30 PM   #41
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I started on the roof today. New material is in just have to pick it up. I have ordered all new vents and new a/c gasket
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:24 AM   #42
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The new roof is glued down. I have let it sit a week to cure. Will start on the trim and rooftop components this weekend.
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