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Old 01-09-2008, 07:09 AM   #15
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Don't you notice the TC moving around a lot with Tork Lift? The Happijac tie-downs are extremely well engineered when you have the frame mount system. It actually forms a truss with the frame and the stabilizing bar to eliminate movement making the camper and truck a single unit.<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Paul Beddows:
Having had both, I have to say I prefer Torklifts system, I do not like the front bed mounting system Happijac uses, i woudl rather have the camper anchored to the frame.

Stablelift is convenient, but it is not for everyone. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

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Old 01-09-2008, 07:17 AM   #16
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The Happijac Frame Mount tie down system is the way to go. It actually forms a truss with the frame of the truck to offer superior holding. The angle of the tie-sowns also offers terrific holding. Happijac is the only tie-down system that holds the camper from moving around. I have used them for years. With the frame mound system they are very strong for all sizes and weights of campers. Use Happijac with total confidence.<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Harald:
Hi P3 guy,

There's basically 3 types of tie downs: bed mounted, frame mounted or stable-lift.

The bed mounted tie downs are inexpensive but don't have the strength of the other mounts. Two common versions are Stake pocket tie downs ( http://www.crbrophy.com/tdhd.html ) and Happijac style ( www.happijac.com ). Stake pocket tie downs are inserted in the stake pockets and have a metal bar that extends outward and down the outside of the bed. You then use chain and/or turnbuckles to attach the camper to the mount. I would never use stake pocket tie downs unless the camper was very light because they rely of the strength of the stake pocket holes in the bed to hold your camper in place. The Happijac style consists of a mount bolted to the front of the bed and a mount attached to the rear bumper. The newer versions have strengthening bars included to strengthen them. But the strengthening bar inside the bed may cause interference with camper loading. Older styles that bolt direct to the bed and bumper are too weak IMO because new truck beds are too flimsy.

Another style of mount is the frame mounted tie downs. The simplest is a belly bar, which is just a long bar that bolts under the truck frame and sticks out both sides. You then use chains and turnbuckles to connect the camper to the mount. It is cheap, but you lose some ground clearance and the cheapest ones stick out the side of the truck so you risk bashing your shins. A better version of the frame mounts are ones like the Torklift ( www.torklift.com ). These are basically receiver hitches bolted to the truck frame that accept extensions for hooking the camper to. Use the same chain and turnbuckle to attach camper to truck. The nice thing about these is they have the strength of the belly bar, but the extension is removeable so that you don't hit your shins on them when the camper is off the truck. And you don't lose any ground clearance because the mount bolts to the frame with no parts hanging low under the truck.

No matter which of the above mounts you use, using spring loaded turnbuckles is a good idea if the mount doesn't have springs built in or else you run the risk of damaging the mounts because the camper can't move at all when hitting bumps or suddenly swerving. If there's no "give" in the mounting, then the eyes can get ripped right out of the camper or the truck attach point can bend (I've seen bent beds where a Happijac mount was attached).

Finally, there's the Stablelift mount ( www.stablelift.com ). It consists of a tubular stand and jack system. You simply raise the camper on the permanently attached frame, drive the truck under, lower the camper and then suck the frame up against the truck to hold the camper in place (there's upside down "U" channels bolted to the truck frame that the camper stand ride in). Although pricey, it's a secure and easy to use mount system. Besides cost, the main disadvantages are reduced ground clearance and some people object to the look of a truck with girdle attached. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

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Old 01-10-2008, 05:27 AM   #17
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The Happijac frame mount tie-down system forms a structural truss with the fram and applies much less stress to the frame than Tork Lift. The design of Tork Lift applies long arm leverage to the frame, potentially damaging the frame. The Happijac system also uses and angle of pull that anchors the camper by triangulation. The Tork Lift system has vertical angle of pull and this allows the camper to move around, forward, back, side to side. The Tork Lift arm acts like a large spring and gives quite a bit. This give allows the camper to sway when going over uneven ground and when is sways one way the one side goes slack and then it snaps back potentiallu causing damage to the camper.
Happijac has been doing it right for over 30 years.
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:05 PM   #18
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Last week I called Torklift and asked a couple questions and told Rep that I was new to the TC experience

TorkLift Rep as helpful as could be answered all my questions / concerns

Then stated regardless what Tie down system I go with ---- highly suggested a rubber mat be placed down on the bed --- plus a piece up against front bed wall to prevent the TC any possibility of moving ---- plus it prevents any damage to TC as well as Truck bed ---- sounded like solid advice to me and I plan to do same

Any other suggestions you all know of for a TC newbee ?

Definitely also plan to purchase the Fast Gun Turnbuckles and NOT use chains
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:42 PM   #19
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I understand torque lift tie downs require a mod kit for DRW trucks (dodge 3500 long bed) --------- clears the rear fenders ? Arctic Fox 1150 camper. Apparently, kit requires relocation of the camper rear tie down brackets. Not very attractive.

Also, insight regarding the 2 front bumpers for Arctic Fox 1150 ? I have seen several front bumpers damaged from catching the front stabilizer bar via the happijac system. Lance has shifted to teflon slide guides in lieu of front bumpers. I wonder if removal of the rubber bumpers and replaced with teflon slide guides will damage the front camper wall (Arctic Fox), since rubber absorbs shock while the telfon does not.


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