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Old 04-22-2016, 12:20 AM   #1
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Smile Wing Rot

Are expecting to see a long photo filled repair posting? sorry. Be brave , pull the trim and aluminum skin ,you too might be lucky like me. 6" on one corner and just 2" on the other. Not bad for a built in January 1998.

I purchased a Fein oscillating tool ,great for cutting out the rotten sections. The Fein is the top of the line, I don't believe in cheap tools,but $30 will buy you a no name. For splicing the new wood back in, a Kreg pocket hole jig works well.

There is a bothersome chore, re applying the trim. I really believe manufactures use grey butyl tape so RVs will leak and rot, lasting just as long as your payments, so you have to buy new ones. I clean the siding and trim with solvent and use lots of Proflex. It's expensive, slow and messy, but the camper should out last me when I've done all the trim.
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Old 04-23-2016, 09:28 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Downwindtrac View Post
Are expecting to see a long photo filled repair posting? sorry. Be brave , pull the trim and aluminum skin ,you too might be lucky like me. 6" on one corner and just 2" on the other. Not bad for a built in January 1998.

I purchased a Fein oscillating tool ,great for cutting out the rotten sections. The Fein is the top of the line, I don't believe in cheap tools,but $30 will buy you a no name. For splicing the new wood back in, a Kreg pocket hole jig works well.

There is a bothersome chore, re applying the trim. I really believe manufactures use grey butyl tape so RVs will leak and rot, lasting just as long as your payments, so you have to buy new ones. I clean the siding and trim with solvent and use lots of Proflex. It's expensive, slow and messy, but the camper should out last me when I've done all the trim.
Downwindtrac
What is "Wing Rot"??
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:46 PM   #3
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On campers longer than the 8',in my case 8' 10" the back panel is full sized . The early campers were notched out, being just 4' wide at the bottom. The angle piece that goes from the side to the back is called "wings". They are out in the open and poorly protected. Mine were sprayed with black undercoating type stuff. It's almost a given, they are not 100% on any used stick&tin. When I bought my camper I felt under there and got rotten pieces of wood.
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:41 PM   #4
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I wasn't familiar with the term "wings" either. Our '92 11.4' Caribou has significant wings. We've had it since '93. I patched the wing area up several times during our ownership, and completely rebuilt it a year or two ago. I also rebuilt the front overhang/bed area, replaced the rubber roof with aluminum, and last Spring rebuilt the front section below the overhang.

I can see where the tools you mention would come in handy. I have HF and Craftsman versions of the oscillating tools. I was clueless about the Kreg pocket hole jig and had to look up some videos to see how it worked. I ran screws in diagonally similar to what the jig video showed without the pre-drilled holes. On the 1.5" corner piece splices I did that and then went around the splice with sheet aluminum and stapled through that to both pieces to about 4 or 5" back from the splice. I also used aluminum and staples to reinforce some corners and other splices.

I used butyl tape and all stainless screws. Also wood preservative, wood hardener, Flex Seal, paint and several different calks. Also accumulated several staplers from CL and eBay.

I've never used Proflex, but I watched it being used to seal rivets on an Airstream video. I was thinking of using it to seal rivets/screws on the Flair.

Now we have the Flair with mostly steel tube construction and I'm learning how to deal with that. I think the stick construction is easier to work on.

Best of luck, and thanks for opening my eyes to the Kreg pocket hole jig.

Steve
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:58 PM   #5
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The Kreg is a short cut way of building kitchen cabinets, but when I saw one it was " My,Oh,My, I have a use for you!" I use to screw together like you did, having to pre drill and counter sink. I like to use Douglas Fir, it's much more rot resistant than the Spruce Pine Fir the factory uses, but it's hard and splits.

I'm cladding the inside of the wing and back with 1/16" aluminum checkerplate. If nothing else it will look good. Along with the DF, I'm using fiberglass coated form-ply, I found some 2nds. If I figured on living another 30 years, not too likely,I would coat everything with epoxy sealer like a wooden boat.


I was lucky, the rot was well below the structural anchor for the jack. They used a sheet metal angle iron at the attachment areas.


I think Proflex is polyurethane sealant, Sitkaflex (sp) is another. I use two 3/8" beads on corner trim. Messy, sticky and at $15 a tube expensive.
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