1 EU2000 and AC?

[Jeff_in_The_Dalles]

I can't find anything on my AC that says how many BTU's or how many amps it pulls.

If I shut off the converter and everything but the AC, the AC will run on the generator.

The generator doesn't seem to draw down much when the AC is switched from fan to cool, the overload doesn't trip, and the voltage at the gen is 120v with the AC running...

I know it is working the generator hard, but I don't want to spend the money for a second EU right now.

My question is, will it hurt anything to run the AC on this gen occasionally?

[Jeff_in_The_Dalles]

I can't find anything on my AC that says how many BTU's or how many amps it pulls.

If I shut off the converter and everything but the AC, the AC will run on the generator.

The generator doesn't seem to draw down much when the AC is switched from fan to cool, the overload doesn't trip, and the voltage at the gen is 120v with the AC running...

I know it is working the generator hard, but I don't want to spend the money for a second EU right now.

My question is, will it hurt anything to run the AC on this gen occasionally?

[6MISFITZ]

Running the trailer's 13,500 BTU A/c on one Honda EU2000 will work (so will a Kipor KGE2000Ti I tired), but it may shorten the life span of the generator.
The way the sales guy explained to me, was the greater the load put on a generator, the closer to maximum the engine has to run and the hotter it gets and the faster it will wear out.

Honda's website says it has a 2 year warranty, and is a forum favorite with many members, so for occasional use - go ahead. I know the throttle econ switch will have to off and check the oil level and condition more frequently.

As for actual amps needed for most 13,5000 BTU rv air conditioners, around 18 - 20 amps to start but around 10 amps running, but was a post from a couple of years ago. Someone else on this forum should be able to narrow it down more.

Mike.

[gearman]

If the gen set will do it, go for it. The EU's, if overloaded will shut down, if this doesn't happen, right on!!! Thats why you bought the unit, right?!?!

[John66]

I had a small A/C, and an EU3000 wouldn't start it reliably, but if it did start, it ran fine. I installed an 'easy start' kit (also called a 'hard start' kit, go figure) in the AC and the generator was always able to start it after that. The kit is a big capacitor and a relay, so the cap charges and helps give it a kick when starting.

Since the EU3000 is bigger than the EU2000, the EU2000 may be even less reliable. If it prooves to be marginal, the easy start kit may help.

[Sandyboris]

Hi jeff_in_The_Dalles

While in Key West, Fl, we ran our 15,000 BTU AC for about 2 1/2 hours on one EU2000i. The unit was new (only 1 week old) and we were at sea level. 1 year or so later and at about 3200 feet in Idaho, the EU2000i would not run the same 15,000 AC! You are correct in turning everything off except the AC. That is the way we got it to work the first time (I even disconnected the propane detector and smode detector pluse the converter). We also started the fan of the AC unit first, let it get up to speed and then start the AC. Hope this helps you in your decision.
Lee

[Jeff_in_The_Dalles]

Yeah, I figured it would be a strain on the generator, but don't plan on doing it that often. Maybe I'll run some synthetic oil in the EU...

Mainly, I figured I wasn't risking burning up the AC compressor due to "brown out" as long as I still had 120 volts, but wanted to make sure.

I also didn't figure it would work at higher altitude, but then the mountains here are generally cooler.

In a couple of years I hope to upgrade the 5th wheel and hopefully have a built in gen, so I really didn't want to invest in a second EU2000 if I didn't have to.

Anyhow, thanks everybody, for the input.