12 Volt Switches

[pocoloco]

I am installing my new water pump and accumulator tank tommrow and thought I might as well hook up an 2nd switch at the water service area in the storage bay. I know that the pump draws enough power that I will need a relay to enable me to make a short power run and also safely have a second switching location. I would also like to add a second switch for my foward bay storage which has three of the white utility lights all wired in on one switch. I would like to wire in the second switch from the opposite end of where the #1 switch hooks to the first light. Am I asking for trouble or should I use a relay here also. We used to wire this way in the boating industry and never had broblems. Switch to light on to next light then on to the next light I would be using the same circut but in a sense flowing backwards the other way until the current reached the switch. Hope this is clear. Keep the dust on ya boot BKF

[Theberrys]

Loco

Instead of running heavy guage wire around your coach, concider one of these Water Pump Controller [BR-31-0000145000] - $36.83 : MC Camping Supplies, Your Complete Camping Source
For about the same price as relays this will do the job with 18 AWG wire. If you have more than one switch now you may already have one. Here is a pdf of the hookup method.
If your pump requires more than 10 amps they also make a 15 amp version.
Dick

[Ray,IN]

Our 5er does not use a relay for the water pump, it just has a rocker switch. I wonder why this could not be wired similar to a 3-way light switch if another switch is desired? It would sure be cheaper than a $38 controller.

[Theberrys]

There is no reason you can't wire two switches that way. Just be sure the switches and wire can handle the current. Normally 10 AMPS is enough, but your Water Pump will define the requirement. 14 AWG wire is normal and that’s a bit big for the connection to the switch. Also doing it that way, you won't be able to use the momentary switches that are commonly found on water pumps.
I suspose you could use light switches to make the hookup eaiser.
I bet by the time you add up all the stuff you need it might be pretty close to the $35.
Dick

[Paul R. Haller]

I have a 2 1/2 horse tile saw that ruined the on /off switch at the motor after a year of hard use. The tile saw manufacturer wanted 85 $ for a new cheesy crap switch. I went to a supply house and ordered a water tight box, a water tight switch cover, some watertight flexible conduit and connectors, and a double pole residential house light switch rated at 25 amps. I mounted the box on the front of the saw on the pulley guard (the old switch was way in the back of the saw on the motor and hard to reach) and wired it all up.The switch as been through 1 replacement Baldor motor, 2 arbor bearing repacements, and about 6 blades. The saw has seen lots of use but the switch I replaced and all the pieces needed to make it work for 25$ is still going strong.

Buy 2 good quality 3 way switches and run 3 wires from the original location to the new location and wire it up. That way it can be turned on from either location and the new switches will certainly last.Confused as to how to hook up the wires? Look it up under three way switch wiring.
-Paul R. Haller-

[WindRVer]

My camper came with two switches for the water pump. One outside at the water control panel and one inside at the tank level indicator panel. They both go to the same place, and if you turn on one, the other one lights up. It is not as complex as a 3 wire hookup for a house lighting set up.

I have crawled all over my underbelly for winter-proofing, and didn't see any water pump controller (doesn't mean it doesn't exist, just that I didn't see it).