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Old 09-10-2010, 10:51 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by wingnut60 View Post
They make blue VWs?

And I could only wish that the name implied military, can't take that kind of credit.

Question for you: does an '89 qualify as a vintage, or do you have another one?
Its been a long time since being around a Detroit Diesel--the ones I was near was on oilfield pumping equipment and they really screamed when wound up.

Joe

Yeah, the "wingnuts", "leathernecks", "coasties", "old salts", etc. ...each and every one of them deserves more respect than is given...

I wanted to join the military at the height of the Viet Nam Conflict. But I was legally blind without my "bottom-of-a-Coca-Cola-bottle" eyeglasses.

One of the medics at at NAS-JAX recruiting station tried to measure my spectacles in a machine ...they would not fit when he tried to jam them in and he asked the doctor how to adjust the machine for "these", holding them up.

The doc yelled back and said, "Don't bother measuring them... just find that blind SOB and put them back on his face before he runs into one of our prime recruits and damages him!" ...followed by, "4-F his axx and get him outta here!"

...Well sir, my feelings were hurt that I could not be in the service. I know it would have done me a lot of good and I have always respected the military.

Regarding what qualifies as vintage... I found several references that say anything over about 15 years in a MH is "vintage" ...and most states will issue a vintage tag at 20 years for just about any vehicle.

No other vintage RV for me, my '89 CC is why I joined the vintage group... they accepted me, so I guess that passes muster. I do own a vintage motorcycle... A 1975 (the first year, BTW) GoldWing GL 1000. Sweeeet.

There is a large and active thread about CGs that will not admit any rig older than 10 years, if that is germane to the question. I can see both sides of the issue and I don't want to inject myself where anyone has any reason for concern about a fire with an older coach.

If it is just "snobbery" as some have suggested, it allows me to "vote with my dollars" and use another CG.

As to Detroit Diesels screaming when wound up... Maybe some DD engines do, and there are lots of DD engine configurations ...but I tell you the 8.2L Turbo in my "Grande Dame" is a sweet sounding powerplant across the full RPM range.

Fortunately, my 8.2 has the upgraded head bolts necessitated by earlier design failures on that engine. At her "sweet spot" on the tach, she's so quiet that "OCARSWMBO" and I can whisper sweet-nothings in the cockpit going down the road at 70 MPH.

Sorry for being long-winded. I am recuperating from surgery and I don't really have a life for the time being.
Take care,
Jim
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Old 09-11-2010, 02:41 AM   #16
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All of the fuse blocks I have seen do not have any negative connection. The fuse block connects the main positive 12V lead (from either the battery or converter) to any number of fused individual circuits. The negative leads are all returned to a common bus bar in the distribution box and then to the negative of the converter or battery. So it would appear that your fuse block has the capacity for two sources of +12V - your C and D lugs - It could be that the three fuses (Aux,1,2) are meant for higher power circuits - perhaps 20 or 30A each, while the other 6 are for lower power ckts 5-15 amps. It could also be as someone else suggested that one set of fuses is for RF sensitive equipment and connects to the battery and not directly to the converter. Since you have the block out - take your battery tender and attach the negative lead to one end of your test light. Connect the pos lead to your C lug and see if you get power to one set of fuses, then repeat with the D lug. I suspect that you indeed have either a loose or corroded wire connection on the lug that feeds those three ckts.
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Old 09-11-2010, 04:30 AM   #17
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hi i am sorry for not suppling all the info to help me. i never expected such a quick response thank you all so much .i do have infact a 28ft travel trailer made by forest river with bh. this panel indeed comes directly of the 110v converter abd is only for the 12v systeam that would also run in conjunction with my trailers batt or directly from tow vehical. the worst part is this dilema comes right when we are trying to sell this trailer so we can purchase our first motor home. i have to say there is just something more about driving down the highway while the wife is cooking me eggs .tt was fun but motor home is the way to go . thanks everyone for your help.
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Old 09-11-2010, 08:03 AM   #18
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I think someone hit upon it.. I will note this, It does not matter if it is a trailer or a motor home because when you start talking about the tank guages, fresh water pump and things like that you are clearly talking about a HOUSE panel, not a "Car" panel so yammer about the ignition switch position makes no difference,,, The panel in question only deals with HOUSE systems.

Now, the Magnetek 6300 series and one assumes some older ones as well, is really 2 different devices each with it's own fuse block that can be joined by removing power.

As I recall from reading the documents on that device THREE fuses get power from one source, the rest from another source.. IF you remove 120vac then a relay connects them so they all get battery power.

The very best thing you can do with a Magnetek 6300 is to contact Randy at http://www.bestconverters.com and obtain a good 3-stage converter upgrade plus kit.. The KIT replaces the "Guts" of the Magnetek (Basically a jumper wire or small circuit board) and the converter will pay for itself in increased battery life (Years, between replacement not hours between recharge)
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Old 09-11-2010, 11:42 AM   #19
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One would have to wonder why the panel didn't work when it was installed in the unit...and works reversed when on the bench?

I helped someone out last week that had a Parallax converter because of an issue he was having. Not knowing who or what make the converter/panel is, it's hard to see what he is seeing and most would be a guess. My guess from reading the manual on a 45amp Parallax converter is that the 'C' and 'D' connections mentioned is where the cables from the battery are connected to the fuse panel. The 3 AUX fuses as someone mentioned earlier are for unfiltered +12vdc and the remainder are filtered. The newer Parallax upgrade boards are all filtered voltages.

Unless there is a problem with the unfiltered fed on the board, it seems like the converter is working correctly as the 'filtered' side works. But why does it work on the bench? If you have open spaces on the filtered side....move the circuits there and use the correct fuse amp as was originally used and see if that works for you.
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:02 PM   #20
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12v electrical problem

ok i do have more info . i finally just got spare time to test and read more into my dilema. the magnatek power converter /batt charger says as followes" DC distribution panel .A:converter output fuses 1-6 vdc pos load circuits for rv 12v motor and light B: fuse batt circuit-acc-for connection of positive leads from 12v electrical equipment such as radio,tv,unfiltered fluoresent lights-requiring batt power utilize only if batt is connected to lug C in accordance with wiring instructions.C lug for positive lead of 12v batt .lug suttable for 14-6 cu conductor. D lug for negative leads of ckts 1-6. acc 1-3 and 12v batt. " i put it all back together the way it was and still no good .the six main are working fine and the three acc are not still . i think the gremlins dont want me to sell this trailer so they are trying to mentaly break me into keeping it.
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:13 PM   #21
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would anyone advise me to NOT wire jumper cabels to the three acc fuses that arent being powered? the fuse would still be functional i would only power the power feeding side of the fuse.
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:39 PM   #22
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Do you have a model number of your converter?
The three fuses you are talking about get 12v directly from your 12v battery in trailer is it fully charged?
Do you have a three way refrigerator and is the fridge off and not on the DC power mode if you have a three way?
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:11 PM   #23
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One would have to wonder why the panel didn't work when it was installed in the unit...and works reversed when on the bench?
I don't know why you wonder, makes perfect sense to me.

As I said, on the Magnatek 6300 3 fuses connect to the battery, the rest to the "converter" only if AC is present.. Installed, he had AC present.

On the bench he supplied power via the battery connection.. If the cross-connect relay is bad,,, power would go only to those 3 fuses.

NOTE: this requires 2 failures in the box.. very possible

1: The interconnect (Cross connect) relay that is supposed to close with no 120vac hanging about, 2: The battery charger section is toast or fuse popped as well.
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:43 PM   #24
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i think i understand . i didnt test battery because it was working w/o battery and the battery was only three months old but if i understand correctly the converters battery charging feauture is most likley broken and that is why my battery is dead an that is why it worked w/o a battery present because it was running off the 12v charging system.hmmm well that figures go to sell something and stuff needs fixin. thank you all for your input and help . i have learned from this and that alone is valuable.does any one have any advice for me in my quest to purchase a motor home ? i have five kids 2,3,6,13,18 so we need something to accomodate us. we will be traveling long distances but only once a year at best. class A looks great but my wife is steering me towards classC .i wanted diesel .We own a 7.3 lt excursion and love it.
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:52 PM   #25
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Yes you do need a MH. Good luck in your quest and show the wife the difference between class C and MH it will have more room, will grow out of C pretty quick, take it from one who has been there.
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