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Old 07-18-2016, 08:03 AM   #1
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2001 Alumascape 30zSKS

I have an opportunity to "inherit" this 5er from a relative. It was purchased new in 2001, and used for several years, then parked. It developed a roof leak, looks like where the fiberglass front cover meets the roof membrane. Mattress got wet and mildewed, so was trashed. Interior ceiling has started to separate at the seam over the bed area. See no other water damage. Trailer has not been moved in at least 2 years. Alumascape pdf says roof is "9 layer aluminum roof w/RV2000 roof materials. Has anyone encountered this problem? Can anyone explain the roof system? Problem is I have to go 1200 miles to get the unit, hate to make the trip and end up with a pig in a poke. Open to all suggestions.
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Old 09-20-2016, 03:29 PM   #2
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We have a 2002 Alumiscape 30SKS fiver. VERY good fifth wheel. We have always parked our under a RV port. No leaks in ours but I may be able to clarify some of roof system wording.
1. The fiver is all framed with 2x2 aluminum studs. The roof is a layer of plywood under the rubber roof membrane. RV2000 is a brand of rubber roof. Your front cap and back cap are plastic/fiberglass. Your exterior sidewalls are aluminum skin. In between all the framing is rigid styrofoam insulation. I think there may be a thin vapor barrier or two to be part of the "nine layer roof".
2. Your interior wall can be water damaged. It is 1/4" pressboard. Common RV wall material.
3. The plywood under the rubber roof can get water damage (rot). (but if firm it might not need replacing.)
4. The 2x2 aluminum framework will not get damaged by water.
5. Floor is waferboard with vinyl floor over it.
6. Carpet areas have the vinyl floor under the carpet.
7. To seal the roof at seams and all penetrations by vents and pipes....Use DYCOR self leveling roof caulking (in big caulking gun tubes) to reseal all seams, removing the old soft sealant first as much as you can. But don't tear the rubber roof with the putty knife/scraper while getting the old caulk off.

Because the framework is 2x2 aluminum instead of 2x2 wood you can feel confident that no structural rot has occurred. You might need to replace the inside wall surface and possibly some of the plywood under the rubber roof then get a new rubber roof put on.

We ordered ours new in October 2001 with one slide and gave about $33,000 for it. It still looks new. We still love it. With one slide (living room) it will weigh about 12,000 to 13,000 pounds packed for camping. We use a 2002 F350 DRW Crew Cab 4X4 with 7.3L powerstroke diesel auto transmission to pull.

P.S. I think an option was fiberglass sides instead of smooth aluminum skin sides. If that is the case on the one you are looking at it will weigh more than mine.. If you have a bedroom slide add 1000 pounds.

If I can help further just ask.
Robert
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:25 AM   #3
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Thank you Robert

Really glad to get your post. Lots of good info. My son & I made a whirlwind trip from N Fl to Mo & back to bring it home. He says there are some soft spots up front just aft of the cap/roof seam. Tarped it from just in front of the A/C over the front, and with the slide out extended, even with rain exceeding 1 1'2"/hr. have found no more leaks, except under the side window just aft of the entrance door. That window has a frameless glass vertical sliding pane that seems to be missing some seal across the bottom, and water runs under the glass. If you could, I would love to see a close up picture of the bottom of that window to see if I can identify what seal is supposed to be there. I'm recovering from hip replacement surgery, so haven't been able to work on it further. Thanx in advance EdS
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:49 AM   #4
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OK I'll send some pictures soon of the window. I might still have some brochures/ literature about how the layers of the roof are sandwiched together. I'll see what I have and photograph them for you.
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:29 AM   #5
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Thank you

I'd appreciate anything you can send me. This old gal certainly didn't get any TLC. Belonged to my niece, and they just used it! Lots of little cosmetics to be done, but basicly sound I think.
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Old 09-25-2016, 05:24 PM   #6
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Just took some pics of the window . Will try and load them up Monday morning to here.
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:53 AM   #7
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Here are the pictures of the window. Kinda dirty because it has been raining here but it shows the outside trim.

IMG]http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac84/twobit601/IMG_2074_zps5wjdrk8c.jpg[/IMG]





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Old 09-27-2016, 06:07 AM   #8
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Still puzzled

Thanks a bunch for taking the time to take & post the pics, however I can't quite see how the window seals at the bottom. The indoor pic appears to have something that looks like a seal that is "crimped" along the bottom. Could I impose on you to take 2 more pics with the window open, one of the bottom of the frame showing any seals, and one of the bottom of the glass to see if there is any seal there? Thanx in advance. I have the window duct taped shut, because any water hitting the outside cascades under the glass, and the wall and floor beneath the window is completely gone.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:44 AM   #9
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OK will take some more tonight.
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Old 09-29-2016, 09:56 AM   #10
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Have not had a chance to take more pictures yet but that window is exactly the same style as the one on the rear of the left side (driver side) just behind the living room slide. I will get those pictures in a day or two.
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:12 PM   #11
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difference

They must have made a change from 2001 to 2002! Mine does not have a window aft of the slide. I was sure it didn't, but just went out and looked. No window. I'm sure this is a Hehr window, some of the others in the unit still have the Hehr sticker on them, but I've had no luck finding out anything from Hehr on it. Just don't know how it could seal the way it is now. I've been told that if you remove the window frame and all there is a model # printed on the frame. I may have to do that. I'm starting to get around a little after this hip replacement, as soon as I'm able, I'll pursue this further. You don't know how much I appreciate all your help on this.
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Old 09-29-2016, 10:49 PM   #12
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i have a 32 SKQ - 2008 never had a issue - i replace the fan in the bedroom and just used the self leveling sealer - this winter i am going to reseal the rest of the seams - pretty simple - a putty knife works well to remove - the great think about holiday rambler is the roof a single sheet up to the front and rear caps -

my window don't leak - but i think seals on the sliders will be next - its been outdoors since we bought it
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Old 10-04-2016, 09:54 AM   #13
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Sometimes I'm dumb - sometimes dumber!

I've been running Twobit around taking pix, and driving you other guys nuts over this leaking window. As I stated before, I'm recovering from a hip replacement, and I just got the trailer home from MO. just prior to that, so haven't been out there looking around much. To make a long story short, I thought the window was missing some weather stripping, & that was the leak. I happened on a video that showed cleaning the drains with a piece of copper wire. Tried that, and you should have seen the crap I got out. Also, the 2 windows in the rear of the trailer, one on either side of the big window, are identical to the one in question - I just never looked. I thank you guys for your help, especially Twobit. Next time I'll look closer before I go off half cocked!
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Old 10-04-2016, 11:30 AM   #14
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No problem. Always willing to help out if I can.
FYI, my wife has had both L and R side hip replaced. One side was 1 1/2 years ago and the other 3 years ago. She is 100%. Do ALL the after surgery physical therapy. It is VERY important in the healing process.

Take care and God bless.
Robert
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